Conion C100 resto

[keeney123]

This lazy technician had to check. So, the IC the music selector switch goes to is a Toshiba IC and the data sheet says the output is no greater than 150 mA so the switch will have no problem. Just order some torsion spring for the bottom tape door. Thank "caution" for the for his hard work on the specification on the spring.

Can anyone confirm what the Original Tape 1 door spring looks like on a Conion C-100F

I have seen a few different photos floating around. Is this what it looks like?

www.boomboxery.com

Took a long to find anything close but this torsion spring outside diameter is 6 mm the Dia of the wire is 1.2mm it is music wire and right wound. They show the picture of it as 180 degrees but then say the deflection is 180 degrees. I do not think they know the difference. We will see when it comes in. I was leery of getting the stainless steel one as my experience with stainless is that once it exceeds its limit it factures completely. I am not sure how they make a stainless-steel spring, but I would imagine Carbon has to be added which might help the facture.

I have replaced 118 electrolytic caps, and I have about 26 more to do. I replace two belts on the lower drive and only have the upper and the counter belt to do. I cleaned the heat sink ICs and repasted them. still have to make sure the speaker that was coming in and out has a good reading on the meter and maybe connect and amplifier to it just to make sure.

Seems the music wire is the correct torsion spring wire to use. The 1.2mm Diameter wire is a little too big and it is hard to make sharp corner bends. It would also be good to have a vice to hold the wire as one bent it. I only had long nose, pointed nose and big vice grip pliers to do the job. My picture is not very good as my phone is a cheap phone. This is the second spring I made. Actually, the first spring came out better. I also may have a problem with the inside diameter as it is only 3.65mm.

I guess the correct way to bend a spring is by using heat and an oven to control the temperature. Then once bent one has to re-harden it again with a lower temperature.

 

[keeney123]

The spring specifications that caution has provided need to be follow to the exact readings. There is no wiggle room. This is for those who may think so. I have check with many spring manufacturing companies and have found no torsion springs with these specifications so one could bend the ends to replicate. I even had a couple of companies do quote on providing the springs. They do not distinguish between making the entire spring as shown and making a torsion spring one can bend. Century Springs gave me an quote of $2,000 for one spring and M&S springs gave me a quote of $1.036.00 for two springs. I am now going to look for the original springs that opened the door. The ones on the interior of the door.

 

[caution]

Back when I modeled the GF777 deck door, we ran into the same issue trying to source the double torsion spring that it uses. As it turns out, there are sellers on ebay from China that will take custom orders for springs, but you have to A) buy at least 100 and B) be VERY specific about every dimension and wire thickness. It only cost somewhere between 100-200 bucks if memory serves.

 

[keeney123]

Back when I modeled the GF777 deck door, we ran into the same issue trying to source the double torsion spring that it uses. As it turns out, there are sellers on ebay from China that will take custom orders for springs, but you have to A) buy at least 100 and B) be VERY specific about every dimension and wire thickness. It only cost somewhere between 100-200 bucks if memory serves.

Thanks.
I ended up buying a Conion 100f new spring cassette door spring kit with spring and spring holders on Ebay for about $28 including tax and shipping. I just got tired of looking. I will see how the kit works.

 

[keeney123]

I wonder if anyone who has the Conion 100f would take a continuity measurement for me. The measure me would be between the red arrows on the picture.
I thought the two planes where the red arrows are pointing on the back of the board are separate. However, looking at the schematic it would seem to be the ground on the DC supply.

 

[keeney123]

I wonder if anyone who has the Conion 100f would take a continuity measurement for me. The measure me would be between the red arrows on the picture.
I thought the two planes where the red arrows are pointing on the back of the board are separate. However, looking at the schematic it would seem to be the ground on the DC supply.

A better way without having to open the case would be to measure from the ground terminal of the battery compartment to the chassis metal of the upper cassette.

 

[keeney123]

A better way without having to open the case would be to measure from the ground terminal of the battery compartment to the chassis metal of the upper cassette.

What I am finding on the schematic is that C259 DC Gnd. side is connected to the black wire that goes to the upper cassette deck to board #17s lower copper plane that connects to the metal of the cassette through the screws.
C259 can be found by going to IC 202 pin 10 and follow the trace to the positive side of C259. C259 is a 3000 uF cap. On board 17 the lower copper plane is separated from the next hire copper plane. This next hire copper plane is connected to the DC ground of the motor and DC ground of the boards. When I measured from the black wire of board #17 to the DC ground of the boards there is no connection. My question was if others experienced the same problem?

 

[valjo]

Thanks.
I ended up buying a Conion 100f new spring cassette door spring kit with spring and spring holders on Ebay for about $28 including tax and shipping. I just got tired of looking. I will see how the kit works.

Hi!
could you post link where you bought them ?
Many thanks
BR

 

[keeney123]

Hi!
could you post link where you bought them ?
Many thanks
BR

I was waiting to use them before I recommended them.

They are really a simple springs that goes where the original springs went on the door to open it. They have plastic caps to hold the springs in place because the inner diameter of the spring is bigger than it should be. There is two springs and two caps. The items are worth less than a dollar. The dealer is selling them for about $20 and then charges for shipping about $7. I just got tired of looking for the other springs that caution made for the outside hinges of the door to open it instead of where the original springs went. You can also just go to Ebay and search for new spring kit for Conion 100f cassette door. The dealer is raleigh*ron

This is the link hear.

New SPRING KIT fits Conion C100F Boombox Cassette Tape Eject Door *Read | eBay

<p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Description: in this listing you are buying Spring Kit. 2 springs and 2 retainers.</p> <br> <p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">The springs that it help eject your tape door is typically missing. So I created a new set of...

www.ebay.com

 

[keeney123]

What I am finding on the schematic is that C259 DC Gnd. side is connected to the black wire that goes to the upper cassette deck to board #17s lower copper plane that connects to the metal of the cassette through the screws.
C259 can be found by going to IC 202 pin 10 and follow the trace to the positive side of C259. C259 is a 3000 uF cap. On board 17 the lower copper plane is separated from the next hire copper plane. This next hire copper plane is connected to the DC ground of the motor and DC ground of the boards. When I measured from the black wire of board #17 to the DC ground of the boards there is no connection. My question was if others experienced the same problem?

As far as I can tell there is no need to separate the the black wire ground plane from the brown wire gnd plane one board 17 as they are both DC GRD,
From reading the developers notes on the output IC one creates three gnd points. A input gnd, a output gnd and the DC Gnd. The output gnd and the input gnd uses capacitors and resistors to separate them form each other and from the DC gnd. This is done to stop crosstalk from the output to input.

 

[keeney123]

The metal bracket CKN11817-ND is not worth buying. It is thin aluminum, and the hole do not line up like there supposed to. I ended up using the original metal bracket. It is a tight fit over the switch body. One really needs to use a file of some sorts to open up the original metal bracket so the switch will fit down in the bracket. I did not have a file on hand so I push it down the best I could.

 

[keeney123]

So, I soldered the switch to the board. The solder holes are a perfect match. The switch does not align with the board edge. It actually hangs over the edge of the board. So, I will have to wait till I assemble the unit back together to see it there will be any problems caused by this and if I need to do a work around. Also, I did a little guess on the amperage. This switch is a 0.5-amp switch at 30Vdc. I can't imagine that its position would require any greater current. I guess I am a lazy technician. UPDATE 2-26-2025 The Digi key switch is not the same physical measurement as the original switch. The legs for the holes line up OK but even using the original metal bracket I was unable to line everything up, so I detached the metal bracket completely and used liquid red tape to glue the back of the board of the switch to the plastic housing. I could only put the cap of the switch through a little bit. It is still operational just does not stick out like the other switch caps. The red liquid tape secures the board very well.

 

[keeney123]

Almost have the unit back together. Just had little problems along the way with wires breaking off the boards and lower cassette player switch falling off when trying to assemble the unit. I have found that the red liquid tape comes in handy to glue the wire jacket insulation to the board so it will not bread and fall off. I have also used it to glue the cassette switch in place as the plastic connection that holds the switch on it compromised by age. Just have to be careful where you glue so switch remains operational on the cassette player.

Will have to see if the box still plays after all the work done. As I have learned in the past as a technician usually one makes at least one mistake for every 100 operations performed. If it does not play, there will not be much wrong with it however it will need a technician with an oscilloscope and a frequency generator to troubleshoot any other problems.

 

[keeney123]

Sure, enough I put the unit all together and ended getting a buzzing sound out of the speakers. So took the unit apart and found I had put in one of the 2200 uF caps in backward. Don't know where my mind was that day. Such a large cap with the direction on the board. Anyway, I had a spare, so I put it in correctly. We will see if this has damaged anything. Perhaps not as I was still getting noise from the speakers, and I did not see anything go puff. I guess when I was younger in my 20-tys and 30-tys electronics held my interest more. Now in my 70-tys I would rather do what I wanted to do when I was younger. That was painting and drawing paintings. Electronics was chosen for me by my father.

 

[keeney123]

Sure, enough I put the unit all together and ended getting a buzzing sound out of the speakers. So took the unit apart and found I had put in one of the 2200 uF caps in backward. Don't know where my mind was that day. Such a large cap with the direction on the board. Anyway, I had a spare, so I put it in correctly. We will see if this has damaged anything. Perhaps not as I was still getting noise from the speakers, and I did not see anything go puff. I guess when I was younger in my 20-tys and 30-tys electronics held my interest more. Now in my 70-tys I would rather do what I wanted to do when I was younger. That was painting and drawing paintings. Electronics was chosen for me by my father.

Update note: I think I might be ok. One has to consider the 2200 uF cap shorted. This is worst case scenario. It is possible the 8-ohm tweeter got taken out as the 7.6 Volts DC would exceed its maximum spec.. I believe the woofer will be alright as it is 15-watt speaker and the 7.6 volts DC at 4 ohms does not exceed that. The peak output current to the current to the chip was not exceeded. However, that is not a continuous rating.