Conion C100 resto

stragulus

stragulus

Member (SA)
Hey Eric,

How did you attach the trim to the case? My lower section is loose as well and I need to re-attach it. Do you clean up the old glue and then reapply new glue, and what kind?
 
Newclairtone7980

Newclairtone7980

Member (SA)
hi
hi would the SANYO M-X920K dial light work in my clairtone 7980 its almost looks the same but nicer colour and thoghts on this how to wire it in any help would be great and want to thank all the members on this site I bought my first clairtone 7980 and put in new belts ect by reading all the information on this site then I sighed up still leaning how to use this web site oh ya clairtone work perfect but no dial light thanks
 
caution

caution

Member (SA)
Sounds fine! The fine tuning is typically done with polystyrene or ceramic caps, which are prone to less drift/failure.
 
Beast From The East

Beast From The East

Member (SA)
Great thread almost out of this planet with the pics shown by a pro at work.I wish i had a fractal of those skills.
I just want to ask the pro a question of how to address issues like those.
I do not seem to find a pro with "electronics" skills combined with restoration skills.
Is it a good idea to address a "modelist" for the case issues(glass colour bumps cracks)?
Do you have people that actually send boxes to you for such resto?
Should i address somebody in Europe for such issues and tackle the pay and shipping costs?
How do other inexperienced members tackle such problems?
Thanks
 
H

harry.stone1111

Member (SA)
I joined this a while back and have been stagnant in my posts, but the work by Caution is always in the back of my mind when I think of improving my boom box. You're an artist and an incredibly gifted technician, sir. If I'm in a bind and I need someone to figure out a way to get it resolved, my preference would be for Caution over McGuyver any day.
 
P

Peachlad

New Member
Hello,

There is another Conion radio in the UK, in Manchester more specifically. From what I can see especially in this pinned tweet that ALL boxes appear to be restorable. would like to either have a go myself or be pointed to a person who can do this radio justice.

I do not know what shape it is in so I am going to post pictures and give information etc if I am in the right place and this forum is still active.
 
H

harry.stone1111

Member (SA)
Can you give me the formula for the treatment you apply and if there is any trick in how to apply it? I can see most of the ingedients in the photo, but I can't see them all and I don't know about how much of each chemical. I live in Florida and we got plenty of sun.
 
Dbzerk

Dbzerk

Member (SA)
Hey Caution, just a question about your re-capping. Did you glue down the new caps, the ones that were previously glued onto the board?
In the process of doing my recap..
 
caution

caution

Member (SA)
harry.stone1111 said:
Can you give me the formula for the treatment you apply and if there is any trick in how to apply it? I can see most of the ingedients in the photo, but I can't see them all and I don't know about how much of each chemical. I live in Florida and we got plenty of sun.
Click to expand...
You need a bottle of "40 volume" hair bleaching cream. In the unlikely event you can't find the cream version you can add a thickener like guar gum, xanthan gum or arrowroot. Paint it over the entire piece and cover with clear plastic wrap to avoid drying out, and set in the sun for a while. It's common to accelerate the process with a dash of Oxi Clean, but I'd skip that. 40 volume's hydrogen peroxide concentration of 12% is plenty strong enough as-is. You risk over-processing the plastic, which causes this pattern of white marks where the plastic originally flowed during casting, which is irreversible. A ton of info on blogs is out there from others' experiences, whitening everything from action figures to game consoles to sneakers.


Dbzerk said:
Hey Caution, just a question about your re-capping. Did you glue down the new caps, the ones that were previously glued onto the board?
In the process of doing my recap..
Click to expand...
Yeah I glued the five big ones on the amp board but it's not a big deal if you don't.
 
donahuest

donahuest

Member (SA)
Amazing. It seems everyone on here is great at working on these old boxes. I find it very intimidating to start to work on these as I am just starting out and don’t have an electronics background. I guess you just have to get in there and do it eh? Anyone k ow of any basic electronic courses or any course specific to fixing old boomboxes?
 
H

harry.stone1111

Member (SA)
caution said:
Can you give me the formula for the treatment you apply and if there is any trick in how to apply it? I can see most of the ingedients in the photo, but I can't see them all and I don't know about how much of each chemical. I live in Florida and we got plenty of sun.
Click to expand...
You need a bottle of "40 volume" hair bleaching cream. In the unlikely event you can't find the cream version you can add a thickener like guar gum, xanthan gum or arrowroot. Paint it over the entire piece and cover with clear plastic wrap to avoid drying out, and set in the sun for a while. It's common to accelerate the process with a dash of Oxi Clean, but I'd skip that. 40 volume's hydrogen peroxide concentration of 12% is plenty strong enough as-is. You risk over-processing the plastic, which causes this pattern of white marks where the plastic originally flowed during casting, which is irreversible. A ton of info on blogs is out there from others' experiences, whitening everything from action figures to game consoles to sneakers.


Dbzerk said:
Hey Caution, just a question about your re-capping. Did you glue down the new caps, the ones that were previously glued onto the board?
In the process of doing my recap..
Click to expand...
Yeah I glued the five big ones on the amp board but it's not a big deal if you don't.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, my friend. I think I'm officially scared to do it. It might be green, but it still looks pretty good.
 
Bloodhound

Bloodhound

Member (SA)
Just got reading this thread from start to finish. Fantastic work caution. You've set the bar with your dedication, thoroughness and attention to detail. Thanks for the inspiration! :)
 
K

keeney123

Member (SA)
caution said:
I might as well post the info I put together for the recap...

Amp board:

C285 1@50
C279 2200@10
C280 2200@10
C281 2200@10
C278 2200@10
C259 3300@25
C206 22@16
C207 22@16
C272 100@10
C270 100@10
C266 100@10
C262 47@10
C268 100@10
C264 100@10
C204 10@16
C205 10@16
C201 100@16
C273 100@10
C271 100@10
C267 100@10
C263 47@10
C269 100@10
C265 100@10
C253 1@50
C255 4.7@25
C239 100@16
C238 1000@16
C256 4.7@25
C254 1@50
C286 1@50
C287 47@10
C241 47@10
C249 100@10
C252 1@50
C240 220@25
C251 0.1@50
C248 4.7@25
C242 47@10
C244 33@10
C230 220@10
C232 100@10
C246 47@10
C253 47@10

Woofers:

4.7@25
4.7@25

I/O board:

C120 4.7@25
C121 4.7@25
C158 10@16
C132 1@50
C126 47@10
C133 100@10
C125 47@10
C101 47@10
C131 1@50
C163 100@10
C156 10@16
C157 10@16
C162 10@16
C144 0.47@50
C145 0.47@50
C155 10@16
C161 10@16
C166 330@10
C164 0.22@50
C165 0.22@50
C148 100@16
C147 2.2@50
C146 2.2@50
C141 47@10
C140 47@10
C137 1@50
C143 10@16
C136 1@50
C142 10@16
C134 0.1@50
C135 0.1@50
C110 22@16
C109 22@16
C108 100@10
C106 1@50
C107 1@50
C118 1@50
C117 1@50

Lower deck board:

C325 1@50
C324 47@10
C315 1@50
C316 1@50
C323 10@16
C331 100@25
C307 47@10
C308 47@10
C302 4.7@25
C301 4.7@50
C321 220@10
C317 2.2@50
C318 2.2@50
C326 100@10
C309 0.47@50
C310 0.47@50
C327 10@16
C328 10@16
Cxxx 100@25 (Underneath CN304)

Upper deck board:

C420 100@10
C416 10@16
C418 10@16
C415 100@10
C417 10@16
C419 10@16
C421 100@10
C412 1@50
C413 1@50
C407 47@10
C409 10@16
C410 10@16
C411 100@10
C403 47@10
C408 47@10
C405 10@16
C406 33@10
C404 10@16

Tuner board:

C064 47@10
C046 1@50
C048 47@10
C044 220@10
C050 4.7@25
C026 1@50
C024 1@50
C058 1@50
C053 100@10
C059 2.2@50
C060 2.2@50
C055 2.2@50
C056 1@50
C057 0.33@50
C019 1@50

Upper tape deck:

10@16
100@25

Summary:
Value new value Qty. size(s) new size price subtotal order qty. Digi-Key link
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0.1@50 3 4mm, 5mm (5mm) .30 .90 3 http://x.co/8Jnl5
0.22@50 2 5mm (5mm) .30 .60 2 http://x.co/8Jnlu
0.33@50 1 5mm (5mm) .30 .30 1 http://x.co/8Jnmx
0.47@50 4 5mm (5mm) .30 1.20 4 http://x.co/8JnoB
1@50 24 4mm, 5mm (5mm) .30 7.20 25 1 extra! http://x.co/8Jnoz
2.2@50 7 5mm (5mm) .30 2.10 7 http://x.co/8Jnpw
4.7@25 (4.7@50) 9 4mm, 5mm Only available as 50V
4.7@50 1 5mm (5mm) .29 2.90 10 http://x.co/8JnrG
10@16 (10@50) 22 5mm (5mm) .31 6.82 25 3 extra! http://x.co/8Jns8
22@16 (22@25) 4 5mm (5mm) .41 1.64 4 http://x.co/8Jnst
33@10 (33@25) 2 6.3mm (6.3mm) .52 1.04 2 http://x.co/8Jntc
47@10 (47@25) 20 5mm, 6.3mm (6.3mm) .54 10.80 25 5 extra! http://x.co/8Jnu6
100@10 21 6.3mm (6.3mm) .58 11.60 25 4 extra! http://x.co/8Jnus
100@16 (100@25) 3 8mm Only available at 25V
100@25 3 8mm (8mm) .53 3.68 6 http://x.co/8JnvL
220@10 3 8mm (8mm) .71 2.13 3 http://x.co/8JnwN
220@25 1 10mm (10mm) 1.19 1.19 1 http://x.co/8Jnx5
330@10 (330@25) 1 10mm (10mm) 1.30 1.30 1 http://x.co/8Jnxq
1000@16 1 12.5mm (12.5mm) 1.59 1.59 1 http://x.co/8Jnyx
2200@10 4 16mm (16mm) 2.08 8.32 4 http://x.co/8Jnzs
3300@25 1 18mm (18mm) 2.41 2.41 1 http://x.co/8Jo0b
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(61 subs) 137 66.72 150

Price breaks at 25pcs. for four of them takes it down to $57.64 and yields 13 extra capacitors.

EDIT: I found ten more electrolytics while reassembling for testing, on the LED meter boards and the mixer knob board. Here is how to adjust ordering if you want to replace them as well.

Mixer knob board: (4 total)
C501 0.22@50 - Order one more of 0.22@50
C503, C504 0.1@50 - Order two more of 0.1@50
C505 100@10 - Instead of 4 there will be 3 extra from qty. 25 order

LED meter board (right), LED meter board (left): (6 total)
C601, C701 4.7@25 - order two more of 4.7@50
C603, C703 1@50 - no longer have one left over from qty. 25 order, need 26 now
C605, C705 47@16 - Instead of 5 extra of 47@25 there will be 3 extra from qty. 25 order
Click to expand...

I been thinking about recapping all the electrolytics.
The links you have set up no longer work.
It has been a long time since I had done this type of work.
My understanding is the Aluminum Electrolytics are self-healing. Which gives added lifetime.
I would think the original type of cap would need to go in the unit? Even though the poly-Aluminum may have a lower XC resistance.
When you list 5mm on the caps. Is this the lead separation or the height?
I re-arranged your list in two different files and have attached them here. {Unfortunately, I cannot attach a excel and word document on this site.}

Are there capacitor manufacturers I should stay away from?
 
Tinman

Tinman

Member (SA)
Damn, I wish there would've been a list like this for every box I've recapped, lol.
One possible correction, I assume the (2) 4.7 caps are for the tweeters and not the woofers.
 
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