It is amazing that someone made a list. This is something that one would get if they worked for the manufacturer. I clear up the list a little but cannot post it in its present format. So, I will print it out and scan it back into computer as a PDF and see it I can post that.
Conion C100 resto
- Thread starter caution
- Start date
The size dimension Is not for the lead spacing I believe it is for the width of the capacitor.
Those are indeed the diameters of the capacitors, not the lead pitch. I was much more concerned about the size of the cap itself so I knew it would actually fit into the existing space; leads can be bent to accomodate different hole spacings. Fortunately over the years electrolytics have become smaller for the same value, so I had no issues with space.
I used a link shortener at the time because the DigiKey URLs were a mile long, but even if I used the original link, it still would be dead for a couple of reasons. 1. It's been nearly 9 years since I did this and Digikey's URL format has changed, and 2. Nichicon has ceased making their UFG "Fine Gold" series in 5mm and 6.3mm cans, possibly more, so it would be impossible to source about half of my list.
To be honest though, my recap was overkill and you'd likely be fine only replacing decoupling and audio path caps. Which family of electrolytics and which manufacturer is up to you. Nowadays general purpose caps may be equivalent enough to use in the audio path than audio-grade caps but you might want to research that. There is a lot of info on Audiokarma.
I used a link shortener at the time because the DigiKey URLs were a mile long, but even if I used the original link, it still would be dead for a couple of reasons. 1. It's been nearly 9 years since I did this and Digikey's URL format has changed, and 2. Nichicon has ceased making their UFG "Fine Gold" series in 5mm and 6.3mm cans, possibly more, so it would be impossible to source about half of my list.
To be honest though, my recap was overkill and you'd likely be fine only replacing decoupling and audio path caps. Which family of electrolytics and which manufacturer is up to you. Nowadays general purpose caps may be equivalent enough to use in the audio path than audio-grade caps but you might want to research that. There is a lot of info on Audiokarma.
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Yes, I am sure my recap will be overkill too as is my order. This attachment is the list of capacitors I bought from Digikey. It is in a PDF file. When I selected these capacitors I filtered them with Audio. I tried to stay with the lowest leakage current for both 60 Hz and 10K HZ. I believed I only chose one capacitor size bigger than you had and two other capacitor smaller than you had. All these are available as of today. The PDF file one will have to go to view and rotate is as it is landscape view.
Caution I want to thank you for the list it sure made my life easier.
Of course, I forgot the 1uF capacitors. I guess when one gets old one forgets. The one micro farad caps I could not find in 50V so I order the 100V.
Ghettoman
Member (SA)
Wow, i was reading this thread thinking it was from this week or something, then i looked at the date and realised it was from 10 years ago.. It was a Good Read though.. I have to Ask.. Hey Caution, Have you kept the Conion or did you move it on some years later ? i'm just curious what happened to it.. Awesome Job By the Way. Great Work you Did on That
Ghettoman
Member (SA)
Damn man i just looked at Crusty 100, You did an Amazing job with that, that was a mess and you brought it back. crazy skills.
Change the first ten electrolytics on the In-out board. Used wire braid to desolder old caps. Went really well. It will take me a while to change all of them as I have two other projects going. I do not have an Oscope to troubleshoot the problem with the left speaker coming on and going out. I figure I will change all the electrolytic caps and see if that cures problem. If it does not then my brother will have to find someone that can troubleshoot the problem with the right equipment. At least all the electrolytic caps will be new.
I am hoping that one of the electrolytics on the balance adjust are bad and causing this problem. The potentiometer does not seem to be causing the problem. However, I have not desolder it to measure it as I don't believe that is a good troubleshooting procedure. It is much better to have the equipment and locate exactly where the problem is.
I am hoping that one of the electrolytics on the balance adjust are bad and causing this problem. The potentiometer does not seem to be causing the problem. However, I have not desolder it to measure it as I don't believe that is a good troubleshooting procedure. It is much better to have the equipment and locate exactly where the problem is.
I have gotten 70 of the caps change. Another 10 I will be done with two boards. The I/O and the Amp. My car broke down so I could not get to my sisters where I am doing the work. It has been broken down for almost five weeks. It is now at the third repair shop.
I am not really experienced with cassette tape decks. I know the capstan and the rubber rollers need to be cleaned with alcohol but, how the springs and belts are placed I not sure. I do not know where I would get these parts.
I also will need to replace the MSN switch. When I was working on it in my little apartment it was on a little table and fell to the floor and broke the switch.
Does anyone know where I can get the about parts?
I am not really experienced with cassette tape decks. I know the capstan and the rubber rollers need to be cleaned with alcohol but, how the springs and belts are placed I not sure. I do not know where I would get these parts.
I also will need to replace the MSN switch. When I was working on it in my little apartment it was on a little table and fell to the floor and broke the switch.
Does anyone know where I can get the about parts?
Found the belts in another thread. https://www.boomboxery.com/forum/threads/desperate-dads-conion-c-100f-restoration.29956/
It is a post #17 by Caution
It is a post #17 by Caution
I was and electrical/electronic technician for about 15 years that was after going to two schools. One was PVTI where I study electronics and the other was STCC where I study electrical technology. I guess one learns how to be dedicated by going to the schools and then follow up with work.@keeney123 you definitely have the dedication! Your Conion will be so happy soon.
It is actually my brother's Conion. I am just trying to get it in the best shape I can by changing the electrolytic caps. I have made it to 90 caps. The Amp board and the I/O board are done. I am working on the lower board now.
I found the perfect replacement switch for the broken one it is PBN-S2A35H-AAg Problem is that it is in China from a Company name Toneluck, and they only sell 1000 at a time to factories. The switch measures the exact measurements of the Conion on/off mode switch for the cassette player. It even has the metal attachment with screw holes that measure the same using vernier calipers.
Also, found link to YouTube video on how the belts go and cleaning procedure also by Caution.
This video also shows the breakdown of the Conion 100 and what it entails
I found the CK switch part number for the on/off mode switch. It is F2UEE-C01-00 However, have not been able to locate part from distributor. This switch is a dpdt pushbutton. The center legs are the common and it just switches from the front legs to the back legs.
The lower deck page has duplicate caps for the tuner board. Also, one cap is not on the sheet. One of the caps is listed as 10V and the physical original cap on the board is 16 Volts. I guess the 10 volts cap is OK because this is what Caution used.
I will correct everything when I am done and post it here.
So, Digikey Engineering Application people kept working with me to find the chassis/metal bracket to the switch F2UEE The metal bracket is Digikey #CKN11817-ND for the single switch.
So, I soldered the switch to the board. The solder holes are a perfect match. The switch does not align with the board edge. It actually hangs over the edge of the board. So, I will have to wait till I assemble the unit back together to see it there will be any problems caused by this and if I need to do a work around. Also, I did a little guess on the amperage. This switch is a 0.5-amp switch at 30Vdc. I can't imagine that its position would require any greater current. I guess I am a lazy technician.
This lazy technician had to check. So, the IC the music selector switch goes to is a Toshiba IC and the data sheet says the output is no greater than 150 mA so the switch will have no problem. Just order some torsion spring for the bottom tape door. Thank "caution" for the for his hard work on the specification on the spring.
www.boomboxery.com
Took a long to find anything close but this torsion spring outside diameter is 6 mm the Dia of the wire is 1.2mm it is music wire and right wound. They show the picture of it as 180 degrees but then say the deflection is 180 degrees. I do not think they know the difference. We will see when it comes in. I was leery of getting the stainless steel one as my experience with stainless is that once it exceeds its limit it factures completely. I am not sure how they make a stainless-steel spring, but I would imagine Carbon has to be added which might help the facture.
I have replaced 118 electrolytic caps, and I have about 26 more to do. I replace two belts on the lower drive and only have the upper and the counter belt to do. I cleaned the heat sink ICs and repasted them. still have to make sure the speaker that was coming in and out has a good reading on the meter and maybe connect and amplifier to it just to make sure.
Can anyone confirm what the Original Tape 1 door spring looks like on a Conion C-100F
I have seen a few different photos floating around. Is this what it looks like?
www.boomboxery.com
Took a long to find anything close but this torsion spring outside diameter is 6 mm the Dia of the wire is 1.2mm it is music wire and right wound. They show the picture of it as 180 degrees but then say the deflection is 180 degrees. I do not think they know the difference. We will see when it comes in. I was leery of getting the stainless steel one as my experience with stainless is that once it exceeds its limit it factures completely. I am not sure how they make a stainless-steel spring, but I would imagine Carbon has to be added which might help the facture.
I have replaced 118 electrolytic caps, and I have about 26 more to do. I replace two belts on the lower drive and only have the upper and the counter belt to do. I cleaned the heat sink ICs and repasted them. still have to make sure the speaker that was coming in and out has a good reading on the meter and maybe connect and amplifier to it just to make sure.