Caution, Do you think it will make it more better to have a matte clear coat over it when it is all done? That would lessen the glare from the shiny metal and protect the lettering over it.
You are so talented!
You are so talented!
C-100F control panel trim spec
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Thanks bud! That's a good question, I'm not sure. I sort of like it all shiny, but I'm not sure how much of a mirror it is, I could start blinding people walking around with it on a sunny day
EDIT: I forgot to mention - the guy that made these for me showed me how durable the paint becomes over time by scratching on some, it's very durable and does not require a protective coating.
EDIT: I forgot to mention - the guy that made these for me showed me how durable the paint becomes over time by scratching on some, it's very durable and does not require a protective coating.
You bet, I've created dry transfers for all four pieces, but I'm still working on bending them, I don't want apply graphics to them and then screw up the bends and have to start all over. It's extra tricky because the metal is a third thicker and much harder (stainless vs. aluminum) so I may have to look for something more workable. 28 gauge brushed aluminum isn't easy to find.
I got the dry transfers for the other two pieces!
My first attempt at bending the door piece taught me that bending the little tabs I made kept the sides from bending straight, so I ended up with a pillowy looking bend. Boo.
So, I ground those off for the second one, but I forgot that you must compensate for the thickness of the metal in your scribe line, so I had to go the opposite direction on the other side to balance it out...
It lines up and would work fine, but when you look closer, I had peeled off the protective plastic too soon and the bending brake scuffed it. So now I know what not to do for the next batch
I tried to bend one of the deck trims but it popped out of the brake half-bent, so I'm going to take some advice from a sheet metal forum and have them re-made with a bit more extra material on that edge so I have something to grab. With the thicker metal I'll have to go about halfway into the bend for the right depth.
My first attempt at bending the door piece taught me that bending the little tabs I made kept the sides from bending straight, so I ended up with a pillowy looking bend. Boo.
So, I ground those off for the second one, but I forgot that you must compensate for the thickness of the metal in your scribe line, so I had to go the opposite direction on the other side to balance it out...
It lines up and would work fine, but when you look closer, I had peeled off the protective plastic too soon and the bending brake scuffed it. So now I know what not to do for the next batch
I tried to bend one of the deck trims but it popped out of the brake half-bent, so I'm going to take some advice from a sheet metal forum and have them re-made with a bit more extra material on that edge so I have something to grab. With the thicker metal I'll have to go about halfway into the bend for the right depth.
WOW, absolutely amazing work.
What a thread. Bummer I missed this all this time. I don't have a C-100 so I guess it slipped through my radar.
This is the top of the top right here.
We're not far from case manufacturing now
Great work
What a thread. Bummer I missed this all this time. I don't have a C-100 so I guess it slipped through my radar.
This is the top of the top right here.
We're not far from case manufacturing now
Great work
Thanks CSI! Well you know all these units eventually have bugs you gotta work out 
Actually the guy messed up my order, all eight were supposed to be on one big screen. He mailed these to me later, and probably made a second smaller screen for them. He forgot about these when I sent him updated files for the first two. He suggested I remove the outlines for the cutouts. We even worked through how doing all of them on the next larger sized screen would save money. I didn't notice when I picked them up either, I even looked at it!
Super easy to work with though and honest as they come, he made them right away no charge.
Thanks man! Yeah, I might have to pay for a new screen but that's ok. I may compress the text for these two together even more since it wouldn't be hard to line it up well enough. It would be nice to have extra letters for touchups too.blu_fuz said:
Actually the guy messed up my order, all eight were supposed to be on one big screen. He mailed these to me later, and probably made a second smaller screen for them. He forgot about these when I sent him updated files for the first two. He suggested I remove the outlines for the cutouts. We even worked through how doing all of them on the next larger sized screen would save money. I didn't notice when I picked them up either, I even looked at it!
Super easy to work with though and honest as they come, he made them right away no charge.Aww thanks Chris I appreciate that! Hah, yeah I'm thinking soon we'll be able to recreate just about anything as soon as hi-def 3D scanning gets a lil cheaper.Lasonic TRC-920 said:WOW, absolutely amazing work.
What a thread. Bummer I missed this all this time. I don't have a C-100 so I guess it slipped through my radar.
This is the top of the top right here.
We're not far from case manufacturing now
Great work
I can't believe I've never seen this topic! Maybe cuz it's in Tech Talk!
Great job, keep it up! You sir, are going that extra mile and then some!
Great job, keep it up! You sir, are going that extra mile and then some!
I had never seen this thread either until I got my Helix, I guess I never had reason to search for this topic because I didn't own one, but dam Eric, you really do some amazing sh*t! Much respect brother
I'm picking up some of the three smaller pieces from the shop today. They used material *I* supplied, which is aluminum this time (not stainless steel!) and is only a couple mils thicker than the original Conion trims, so I'm hoping I'll be able to bend them properly.
The lettering though, well, I'm not doing dry transfer again. If you don't apply them within a couple weeks of getting them they will dry out and fail to transfer completely. Even when they are good they take too much time fussing around with letters that didn't transfer right. And if you push too hard the letters distort. I want to do quite a few of these, so I have to figure out how to silkscreen them, either by myself or an outside place.
The lettering though, well, I'm not doing dry transfer again. If you don't apply them within a couple weeks of getting them they will dry out and fail to transfer completely. Even when they are good they take too much time fussing around with letters that didn't transfer right. And if you push too hard the letters distort. I want to do quite a few of these, so I have to figure out how to silkscreen them, either by myself or an outside place.
Count me in for a front panel set when they get worked out. And thank you for the countless hours you have already invested. Really over the top work.caution said:
Well, it looks like I'll have to live with dry transfer, given how much it would cost to get everything in place to screen them at home. The surface will be a bit rougher this time and will apply them as soon as they arrive.
Apparently people have had good luck using a Scotch Brite pad vs. sandpaper so I'll try that. Still waiting to hear if my smaller layout for the lot of 10 pieces (with some extras for screwups) will work being jammed so tight, or if I have to pay an extra $20 for the next larger size.
Apparently people have had good luck using a Scotch Brite pad vs. sandpaper so I'll try that. Still waiting to hear if my smaller layout for the lot of 10 pieces (with some extras for screwups) will work being jammed so tight, or if I have to pay an extra $20 for the next larger size.