photography

[jaetee]

Wow, some great kit coming to light here! And great advise....!

I've been shooting photos for more than 30 years now and, lucky for me, I have a very good friend who used to have his own camera repair business and was Nikon & Canon certified. So, when I stumble across pretty much any good lenses or cameras that don't work I usually try to pick them up at good prices.

At this time, I have several systems going on.... Nikon D90 has been my mainstay for the past 2 years. Great camera!

My Nikon system:
Nikon DSLRs: D90 & D40 backup body
Nikon SLRs: N80
Nikon lenses that work:
35mm f1.8 DX
90mm f2.8 macro (Tamron)
12-24mm f4 (Tokina, probably going to sell to get the 11-16 f2.8 or a 10-20mm, not sure yet)
18-200mm VR DX (Great walkaround zoom)
18-105mm VR (for sale)
70-300 VR (for sale)
24-50mm f3.3-4.5 (mostly for N80)
100-300mm f5.6 AI (really sharp lens, gonna sell eventually)

Nikon lenses lanning to get:
50mm f1.8 (because it's cheap and good)
80-400mm VR, or 200mm f2 and 1.4x and 2x teleconverters (mostly for wildlife and motorsports)

Canon Gear (that works):
DSLR: 20D body
SLR: EOS RT (pellicle mirror version of the EOS 630)
SLR: EOS 630 (same as RT, but normal mirror, will be selling soon)
50mm f1.8 EF (old metal mount version)
18-55mm EF-S kit lens ($40 pawn shop purchase to backup my 17-85mm)

Non-working lenses awaiting repair:
Nikon AF 85mm f1.8
Nikon AF 20-35mm f2.8 D
Nikon AF 80-200mm f2.8 (oldest version, but way sharp)
Canon EF-S 17-85mm (will probably sell when I get it back)
Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8 IS (another main reason why I keep the 20D around)
Canon EF 75-300mm f4-5.6 (first version, to be sold)

For flash, I use a Metz 54 with interchangeable modules for both systems. I even get great results using it as a standard non-TTL auto thyristor flash!

In addition to the gear above, I also have a pristine Canon A-1 with a 28mm, 50mm, 35-105mm & 100-300mm lenses that I still use occasionally. If you've ever used the A-1, you'd know why I keep it around. Its a very, very good camera. It's my retro-camera.

I also have a Pentax Spotmatic and Olympus OM-1 that were given to me broken, but I got back from service recently. Those are good for photography students who need manual cameras. I typically sell those right before a new school year.

I also have an old Kiev medium format camera that my dad gave me, which I won't sell.

I get my full frame fix by shooting the occasional roll of slides or film. Back when I had a predominately Canon setup, I had the 5D full frame body and I didn't use it as much as I thought I would. I sold it and bought the D90 for its video capability and great price at the time (when compared to the 5D mkII). That was pretty much it for Canon DLSR system because not long after starting to shoot with the D90, I decided to sell off my L lenses and build a DX based Nikon system. Very happy with it so far! But, I still do like Canon as a brand and would never discourage someone from buying a Canon. I keep my 20D around because it has been VERY good to me and I need to have a Canon DLSR around to test the lenses I buy for repair. And at paid event shoots, I put the 50mm f1.8 on it and use it as a dedicated second body for just that focal length.

I could go on for hours.... gonna spare you guys and shut up now...

 

[zorlac]

It is tricky. Shiny things are a pain in the ass, lol! I did product photography for years for a place called 6th Ave Electronics (6ave.com)
I took shots of cell phones and DVD players all day long, lol! Once in a while they would send me on location to take photos of really high end home theaters. That was fun just being in some of these crazy huge houses.

Can't you get the full light effect and not have to worry about shiney objects and reflections if you use a crystal or prism polarizer?

 

[btphoto]

Can't you get the full light effect and not have to worry about shiney objects and reflections if you use a crystal or prism polarizer?

Nope. Those things just help with reflections on certain surfaces, like water and such.

 

[zorlac]

Can't you get the full light effect and not have to worry about shiney objects and reflections if you use a crystal or prism polarizer?

Nope. Those things just help with reflections on certain surfaces, like water and such.

Ah ok. I'm learning a little from this thread. So if I want to take a picture of a glass building or a lake I could cut the glare out with a polarizer. But it won't work with direct brightness. Ok cool thanks

 

[jaetee]

Can't you get the full light effect and not have to worry about shiney objects and reflections if you use a crystal or prism polarizer?

Nope. Those things just help with reflections on certain surfaces, like water and such.

Ah ok. I'm learning a little from this thread. So if I want to take a picture of a glass building or a lake I could cut the glare out with a polarizer. But it won't work with direct brightness. Ok cool thanks

Polarizers also help to saturate colors when the sun is not in the frame and not at high noon. Subjects like foliage and blue skies will have deeper color.

A polarizer can reduce the light hitting your film or sensor by as much as two full stops, so watch your shutter speed if you're using one. And if you're using one with TTL flash, make sure you are using a circular polarizer rather than the older linear kind... (really showing my age there, I don't even think they make linear pol filters anymore).

 

[btphoto]

...make sure you are using a circular polarizer rather than the older linear kind... (really showing my age there, I don't even think they make linear pol filters anymore).

The linear ones were fun to rotate and get varied effects though. I think if they still make them, it's just for that reason I bet, lol!
I also believe the circular ones aren't quite as effective as the linear ones, but that could be just me.

 

[zorlac]

[/quote]
Polarizers also help to saturate colors when the sun is not in the frame and not at high noon. Subjects like foliage and blue skies will have deeper color.

A polarizer can reduce the light hitting your film or sensor by as much as two full stops, so watch your shutter speed if you're using one. And if you're using one with TTL flash, make sure you are using a circular polarizer rather than the older linear kind... (really showing my age there, I don't even think they make linear pol filters anymore).[/quote]


...not to get too far of topic but this is still in regards to photo effects and conditions

The sky is what I always used the polarizers for, I like the black/blue sky. I ever really messed around much in regards to brightness that's why I asked.
It does work in a way that is mentioned by jaetee in this example. Here's a shot on my "Nikon F"- an old late 60's early 70's original nikon F 35mm...


here's 3 examples of pics taken with a polarizer on the same camera, different shots
2001

2001

2010

 

[btphoto]

Wow great photos. I'm always impressed with film. Digital is great but film is still a whole other art form.

 

[zorlac]

Wow great photos. I'm always impressed with film. Digital is great but film is still a whole other art form.

Thx, i get lucky about once every 3 rolls.

If you look at most of my boomboxery posts & pics you'll notice the pics are not all clear. This is because i've never used film for boombox shots (not yet). The reason? processing is now inconvenient and expensive. The other reason is i recently noticed this htc evo cell has a totally scratched lense. For an 8mp camera phone its a crappy design, the lens sticks out and as result its the first thing that gets scratched up.

 

[ClaretBadger]

Oh I've totally fallen back in love with film

it costs cheap to buy
but if you don't have a dark room set up - developing on the high street is killer - 15 pounds/30 bucks at the moment is what I have paid for 36 color shots plus a CD of bad lo res scans.

BUT

Mr Photo is correct - there is NO subsitute for taking PICTURES with real flm photography - digital is just taking FILES
http://www.flickr.com/photos/claret...etbadger/5102027381/in/set-72157625115048541/

 

[btphoto]

The other reason is i recently noticed this htc evo cell has a totally scratched lense. For an 8mp camera phone its a crappy design, the lens sticks out and as result its the first thing that gets scratched up.

I love my HTC EVO, lol! I put one of those silicone cases on it and the thickness of the case keeps most things from touching the lens.

This was taken with my EVO:

http://billsboxturtles.com/post/old_studio.jpg

 

[zorlac]

The other reason is i recently noticed this htc evo cell has a totally scratched lense. For an 8mp camera phone its a crappy design, the lens sticks out and as result its the first thing that gets scratched up.

I love my HTC EVO, lol! I put one of those silicone cases on it and the thickness of the case keeps most things from touching the lens.

This was taken with my EVO:

http://billsboxturtles.com/post/old_studio.jpg

You're right I loved the phone for the first week until I effffT it up getting drunk leaving it on the bar before I could buy one of the silicone covers-it's my own drunk ass fault.
Here's a pic before I neglected the phone....then another pic after the lense was scratched up. I thought about wheeling out the glass and getting one of the silicone protectors to keep the lense from bottoming out.

 

[btphoto]

Take the phone to a Sprint store - they can fix it for sure!

 

[jaetee]

We should start a film-based boombox photography thread :

Retro-photo to shoot our retro-boomers!

Where whoever wants to participate shoots their favorite boomers with a roll of film (or slides) and post our best shots....

Just don't try to use any old Kodachrome stock you might have laying around... http://www.kodak.com/global/en/prof.../catalog/kodachrome64ProfessionalFilmPKR.jhtml

 

[btphoto]

I'd have to pick up a film camera as I no longer own one,

 

[zorlac]

I'd have to pick up a film camera as I no longer own one,

The throw-aways work ok if you get the right one with the right speed. Or I have a complete cannon ae1 that I bought last summer just because a friend of mine needed to liquidate for their new born. You could pick it up along with the motor, 3 lenses, flash, cannon strap and camera body-all complete for what I paid for it DIRT CHEAP!!! It's a decent camera. I have no use for 2, really. (pm me if you can help me get rid of it). it will never be used here-I still have the first roll of film I bought installed with only a few shots taken so it's ready to shoot...lots of fun and mystery with the 35mm's..

As far as the retro boombox photo shoot goes, i'm in, It's a great idea jaetee. I have a lot of props, mad props, hehe. No I have a lot of 80 crap laying around here that would be good props for an 80s photo shoot. The only problem is time....

 

[btphoto]

Wow that's tempting but I'm just too broke at the moment, maybe in a few months, lol!

Thanks!

 

[jaetee]

I'd have to pick up a film camera as I no longer own one,

The throw-aways work ok if you get the right one with the right speed. Or I have a complete cannon ae1 that I bought last summer just because a friend of mine needed to liquidate for their new born. You could pick it up along with the motor, 3 lenses, flash, cannon strap and camera body-all complete for what I paid for it DIRT CHEAP!!! It's a decent camera. I have no use for 2, really. (pm me if you can help me get rid of it). it will never be used here-I still have the first roll of film I bought installed with only a few shots taken so it's ready to shoot...lots of fun and mystery with the 35mm's..

As far as the retro boombox photo shoot goes, i'm in, It's a great idea jaetee. I have a lot of props, mad props, hehe. No I have a lot of 80 crap laying around here that would be good props for an 80s photo shoot. The only problem is time....


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The Canon AE-1 is a great shutter priority AE camera. I think it was even Canon's best selling camera in the 80's. Reliable and easy to use.

That looks like a great kit, Zorlac! Looks like you're covered from 35-210mm with the two zooms, and there is also the fantastic 50mm F1.4 SSC for low light or if you really want to blur some backgrounds.

That 70-210mm f4 is legendary for its sharpness... I bought one brand new back in 1984 and shot with it for years. Traded it for a pool cue back in 1990 when I was in the service.

And here's a low res scan of a pic I shot with one of those about a decade ago!

 

[ClaretBadger]

Always wondered what the point of shutter priority was!!!!

Nikon FM2 for the purist - mechanical no auto modes 50 bucks
or
Nikon F3 for the A mode - and the build quality and the design of a classic (Guigaro) 100 bucks for what in the 1990's would have cost you 3000 dollars

ALSO - you got Nikon lens - so use them on your F3 - except the "G" for Gelded ones

 

[zorlac]

yeah as far as 35 mm goes I won't use that AE-1 even though it has a good reputation for being compairable to the swiss and germans...alpa's and leica's. I just don't need two 35ers, I'm attached to my other nikon f. I don't need both.

Jaetee it sound like you know more about this than I do, you should hook up with it, I garauntee it wont cost you much, make an offer it's just gonna get old and unused around here.