Need help for my Panasonic RX-5250LS
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AE_Stereo
Member (SA)
The yellow (at the phone side) is Ground. Common to all.
Why don't you just check if you are getting Line-Out through this cable. It will confirm for sure.
If Line-Out is confirmed, Line-In should be the other two pins.
Yes you are right! Hum why I haven't checked before if it is line out...well, I suppose because sometime i'm an idiot maybe
Anyway I have done the soldering, time to reassemble a little and test that!
Can't wait, if it was that, I owe you one fresh beer
IT WORK!!!!!
IT WORK PROPERLY AND PERFECTLY!!!!
you were right, absolutely right!
I'm soooo happy, I owe you one, and also a good lunch
Really thank you very much AE!
Sounds like DIN standards isn’t even a standard. I’ve never liked DIN because I’ve always found them too confusing and often not conforming to expectations.
Yes DIN is a bit confusing but with the help of AE_Stereo it working perfectly now.
Sadly I suspect I have fried my phono entry, not usefull to me but I think it's important that I fix it one day anyway, I'll try to find a turntable or a drop line adapter to test it.
What do you think about my capacitors?
They looking good but they're 40 years old now...
I think those dark purple Matsushita was very good ones but today maybe it will be a good idea to replace them all?
The sound is excellent so I hesitate but I'm thinking maybe change only those in the DC filter part to be sure to deliver properly filtered power to other components...
They looking good but they're 40 years old now...
I think those dark purple Matsushita was very good ones but today maybe it will be a good idea to replace them all?
The sound is excellent so I hesitate but I'm thinking maybe change only those in the DC filter part to be sure to deliver properly filtered power to other components...
Tinman
Member (SA)
My experience with the old Matsushita caps is, they seem to leak more than other brands like Rubycon.
Check out the legs on some of them and see if they have residue.
I'm not saying they're bad and should be replaced but just something to consider.
I've had a 5150 and 5250 and replaced about 25 caps on each because they had crusty legs.
I fully recapped both of my 7700s because they had multiple caps with residue and I knew I was keeping them.
Thank you, I have checked all of them and nothing suspect, that's a good thing.
The thing is, I would like replace them all just for the peace of mind and to keep my 5250 for another 40 years but will it be good to do that without any setting after? I mean new ones don't have the same esr etc...so as a result, tuner may need some settings etc etc...you know, all those littles adjustable resistors here and there and I don't have a service manual or technician material etc.
What is your experience with that? Can I replace capacitors without touching any settings?
Tinman
Member (SA)
I've fully recapped 10 boxes and haven't had a problem.
If you decide to do it, just be careful when you're working around the tuner area.
Sometimes just mistakenly bending a ceramic capacitor, resistor or other component can throw the tuning off.
Be careful around any components covered in wax.
I'm currently recapping an RX-5350 and two of the electrolytic caps on the tuner board were coated in wax.
I carefully removed the wax around the caps with out touching anything else.
I won't know if the tuning is off until I get it put back together.
If you decide to do it, just be careful when you're working around the tuner area.
Sometimes just mistakenly bending a ceramic capacitor, resistor or other component can throw the tuning off.
Be careful around any components covered in wax.
I'm currently recapping an RX-5350 and two of the electrolytic caps on the tuner board were coated in wax.
I carefully removed the wax around the caps with out touching anything else.
I won't know if the tuning is off until I get it put back together.
That's great to know! Thank you for your reply.
Can I ask you what capacitors brand do you use?
I have reading somewhere there is no need to choose high grade caps like audio special ones, only standard in good brand...I don't know if Panasonic manufacture caps today but if it's the case it will be great to choose it to respect the "spirit" of the box...I have see also report of fake chinese Nichicon and Elna...don't want to take any risk...
If you really think you've damaged your phono section, the most likely culprit is the phono amp, IC101, RVIBA328MR. Maybe pick one up just in case if you can find one. OEM parts are getting scarcer by the day and you'll want to ensure you have the part available if/when you decide you want to replace it. Panasonic adds the RVI prefix on many of their parts... if you can't find it, just omit the RVI and you should be able to.
About a decade and a half ago, I had an RX-5150 that absolutely had all kinds of gremlins. After finding a couple of bad electrolytic caps, I decided that rather than expending a ton of additional diagnostic time on it (time is money too), I'd just replace all the caps on it. So every last electrolytic cap was replaced. When it went back together, all of the gremlins disappeared and the sound was magical. Modern caps are much more reliable and smaller than their vintage counterparts due to manufacturing improvements. It's absolutely possible for a recap to endure 40 more years but just avoid the mystery chinese caps, who often names them similarly to legitimate brands. Panasonic is a great cap to use, many people swear by them. I use Nichicon without reservation as they are usually cheaper than the Panasonic counterparts. Nichicon also has affordable audio grade caps (the gold ones). They are much more costly (by many factors) than non audio grade so while you can use them exclusively, you'll save a bit of money using them only in the audio path. The rest (bypass, stiffening) caps, etc do not benefit from the audio grade variety. To know which is why, you'll want to have a good schematic. Since most of my work is on audio electronics, I keep an extensive inventory of audio grade caps so while it is more economical to use non-audio ones, I don't hesitate to put those into service in any application. It's better than stocking several full lines of caps.
As for recapping the tuner, you'll only want to replace the electrolytic ones which have no effect on tuning alignment. Due to their inherent inaccuracy in value tolerance, that's not their purpose in tuners. Just be careful and not bend any other components or coils. It's easy to do. You might be looking at and tugging at a cap to dislodge it, but in the meantime, your other hand where you aren't looking might be pinching an area of the board where there is a FM coil. Absolutely stay away from the styrol caps, which are usually cylindrical with a clear shell and foil inside. They are high precision and critical in alignment alone with the ceramic ones.
About a decade and a half ago, I had an RX-5150 that absolutely had all kinds of gremlins. After finding a couple of bad electrolytic caps, I decided that rather than expending a ton of additional diagnostic time on it (time is money too), I'd just replace all the caps on it. So every last electrolytic cap was replaced. When it went back together, all of the gremlins disappeared and the sound was magical. Modern caps are much more reliable and smaller than their vintage counterparts due to manufacturing improvements. It's absolutely possible for a recap to endure 40 more years but just avoid the mystery chinese caps, who often names them similarly to legitimate brands. Panasonic is a great cap to use, many people swear by them. I use Nichicon without reservation as they are usually cheaper than the Panasonic counterparts. Nichicon also has affordable audio grade caps (the gold ones). They are much more costly (by many factors) than non audio grade so while you can use them exclusively, you'll save a bit of money using them only in the audio path. The rest (bypass, stiffening) caps, etc do not benefit from the audio grade variety. To know which is why, you'll want to have a good schematic. Since most of my work is on audio electronics, I keep an extensive inventory of audio grade caps so while it is more economical to use non-audio ones, I don't hesitate to put those into service in any application. It's better than stocking several full lines of caps.
As for recapping the tuner, you'll only want to replace the electrolytic ones which have no effect on tuning alignment. Due to their inherent inaccuracy in value tolerance, that's not their purpose in tuners. Just be careful and not bend any other components or coils. It's easy to do. You might be looking at and tugging at a cap to dislodge it, but in the meantime, your other hand where you aren't looking might be pinching an area of the board where there is a FM coil. Absolutely stay away from the styrol caps, which are usually cylindrical with a clear shell and foil inside. They are high precision and critical in alignment alone with the ceramic ones.
Thank you so much for the lot of advices!
In fact 15 years ago I have recapped a box, a GF-8585, that was my first and my last...I have spend a lot of money and time on eBay to find them all...I remember Nichicon and Elna, even some small purple Sanyo and few Panasonic...some Elna was silmic and Sanyo was special for computer, I have mixed all that stuff only judging by the brand name on it...I have take the time and all, I was very proud of it...and after reassembly the sound was not as good as before! All worked well but the sound was a lot less bassy and punchy...also had issues with tape (idler tire) and twitters who fallen apart (old glue) so I was so disapointed. I have doing that as an "autodidact" alone in my garage, spend A LOT of time working in this garage on old japanese electronics and as a result I had pay less attention to my girlfriend and she just told me "I go now" after ten years...exactly in the same time when I tested the gf8585 and after let her go I have put all my stuff in trash (yes, all) and say to me never again...and never touch anything for 15 years...
Today I have a wife (not the same), a very good one! A far better life, A bit more time...And the will to save old stuff coming back slowly...I have save my first radio when I was 10 years old but at these old time, with these old japanese stuff I have never have to replace anything, only disassembly, cleaning and some solder fixed near anything it was so cool. But today time is passed and some capacitors are bad, some belts are melted and people sell their old stuff as if they're all "holy grail" when at the time I found them in garbage...
Good old days...
But today I'm on boomboxery.com!
If you do some research, you'll find that some people are disappointed after doing a recap because the sound was different. If the sound was exactly the same, then you'd not need to do a recap if it wasn't degraded in some way right? This is especially true on some sansui gear. Apparently, when the caps wear, the sound is more muddied and less brassy. Replacing them resulted in more detail and precise sound but some interpreted this to be not as "mellow." Whatever, if you are happy with the sound and not having issues, keep the originals. But if you find any failed caps, the rest are probably not far behind, there're all the same age. Just be aware that new caps could result in new sound. It might be more to the way in which the boombox originally sounded but as the boombox aged and the user got used to that sound, new sonics might sound a bit "off". Keeping audio grade caps in the audio path might help. Nichicon had a flyer speaking to the benefits of using these types of caps in the audio signal path, I don't know if they still do, maybe search for it.
That make sense!
In my case it was a big difference the sound was less powerfull. Hard to explain with words (especially for a french guy with not so good english speaking, please excuse my faults)
I think I will replace those on the power supply area to begin, from my little experience I think that those are wearing the most (because the purpose is filtering the AC maybe, more exposed?) I remember an old Toshiba radio, IC777 or IC77 or something like that, wasn't working at all, making just a little noise in each band and I have just changed one cap, the "big" one in power supply. After that I have turning on just to see and surprisely the radio was working very well, chance or not I don't know but I have done nothing else...I think it was a grey Towa or something like that
In my case it was a big difference the sound was less powerfull. Hard to explain with words (especially for a french guy with not so good english speaking, please excuse my faults)
I think I will replace those on the power supply area to begin, from my little experience I think that those are wearing the most (because the purpose is filtering the AC maybe, more exposed?) I remember an old Toshiba radio, IC777 or IC77 or something like that, wasn't working at all, making just a little noise in each band and I have just changed one cap, the "big" one in power supply. After that I have turning on just to see and surprisely the radio was working very well, chance or not I don't know but I have done nothing else...I think it was a grey Towa or something like that
AE_Stereo
Member (SA)
AE_Stereo
Member (SA)
DIN standard is only the plug design consisting of the circular shielding metal skirt, surrounding a number of pins spaced in a circular shape inside, having varying number of pins from three to eight. Usually it is supposed to be connected at both ends using the same DIN pin, with umpteen ways of utilizing the pins for transmitting entirely different input/outputs.
For example Bang & Olufsen uses 8 pin DIN cable for transmitting speaker out and digital data for display through the same cable, for their active speakers.
The wired remote control of National RX-7000 (also JVC M90) is connected through an 8 Pin DIN cable.
Problem arises when it is used by converting from one standard to other, in this case from DIN to RCA. The 5 pins carry Ground and L/R IN & OUTs. It is obvious that you need to connect the input & output to the correct pins. This can be physically traced very easily. It can also be traced from inside of the radios. The ready made conversion cables may not be correctly configured. So first trace or test and find out what each pin stands for.
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