Conion C100 resto

BoomboxLover48

Boomus Fidelis
Great thread to watch a pro in action!
Keep up the good work!
Always fun to watch people doing stuff the right way with lots of patience and dedication.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :hooray: :hooray: :hooray: :hooray:
 

SLO

Member (SA)
This 1st photo looks like a scene from Breaking Bad ;-) EXCELLENT RESULTS. Go Caution go!!! :thumbsup:
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caution

Member (SA)
Just call me Walter :-) haha
I'm so glad I didn't use 35%, I probably would've injured myself and ruined the case. More than once I got some on my fingers and did gave me those white skin burns.

My other tweeter shows up tomorrow, party time! Parts Express shipped me only one, even though it was hand-written on the invoice that they had sent two. They didn't hesitate to send out the other one. Oh and after I bend the tabs through the old holes they will drop right into the old tweeter shells! :rock:

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They look brand new! The great thing with ink is that there's no chance of the sound being slightly altered as you're not putting a layer of anything over the cone. With a new, ink filled marker, virtually no force needs to be applied to the cones' surface to transfer the colour so there's no chance of you tearing up the cone surface.

James.... :-)
 

JustCruisin

Member (SA)
jimmyjimmy19702010 said:
They look brand new! The great thing with ink is that there's no chance of the sound being slightly altered as you're not putting a layer of anything over the cone. With a new, ink filled marker, virtually no force needs to be applied to the cones' surface to transfer the colour so there's no chance of you tearing up the cone surface.
James.... :-)
Same thing I do to mine, use the Sharpie Magnum.. It has the widest flat tip makes covering the cone quick and easy! :yes:
Even though Sharpies have a "brownish-purple hue", behind a black grille the speaker looks black. :cool:
 

blu_fuz

Well-Known Member
Staff member
I was going to try the marker on my M90 woofs, but I don't think I would get the same 'black' with the poly coated cones. No way for the marker to soak into the material.


Is there really no long term harm with the chemicals in a sharpie to deteriorate the cone?
 

caution

Member (SA)
I'm at a crossroads and I need a push one way or the other. As I've worked on this I've avoided other C-100's for sale just because it just seems wrong to take one out of existence only for one stupid piece of trim and then part out the rest when it could've been good enough for someone else. But another one with good trim just sold, this time for a little over $300. It's too close to call anymore. I was thinking I would have new ones made to spec and sell sets to others in need but that may be a weaker market than for parting out a unit. I don't know. Without it the box looks kinda junky.

I've put far more time into this than I ever thought I would. I really want it to be done but I also really want it to look nice. It would much better reflect all of the hidden work. Question is, what is the most realistic path with this big old case? I've been sitting here for the past few days staring at it with the intention of reassembly but I can't convince myself to. I keep wondering if I'll end up changing my mind about the front and need to disassemble everything later.

The thing about it is, it's largely intact, just one small chip on a foot, but it's pretty scratched and dinged and missing trim. I bought some matching Tamiya X-11 and some Model Master and started to touch it up best I could, but I dunno. It looks okay from the spots I did but I am still left wondering if I worked out the surface problems by hand and had it painted would this look better necessarily? I'm concerned another coat of paint will end up rounding off/blurring everything and would hate to find out later that living with what I had to begin with was actually my best bet, unless paint can be removed from case plastic.
 

caution

Member (SA)
Doesn't have to be exactly the same but some shade of silver, maybe that Toyota silver you used that looked sweet as hell. I thought that kittmaster was onto something when he used M90 gray, it really made the tweeter chrome stand out, but he never posted a full pic so I couldn't tell if it was an overall good look. I'm afraid if I veer too far away from silver, the trims will look too out of place.
 

blu_fuz

Well-Known Member
Staff member
If you already made the decision to paint, then there is no reason not to try a color that you really like. Worst case, you sand and repaint again.

Ive seen red C100's, black, pastel fades, and maybe a few others. Maybe try something funky like 'boat flake' something so glittery in looks deep.


You are right though that the toyota pearl silver I sprayed on that M70 was just enough flare without being able to tell it is custom.
 
I say build it up and then carry it around inside and outside looking at it in different lights. My prediction is that when assembled, it will better than you think. You can't beat originality.

My recent find GF-9696 has dents, scratches etc to the finish. Sure I could paint it and make it look perfect but IMHO, signs of wear adds to the history of the box - making it look like a survivor, not a box that sat unloved in it's original cardboard box in a warehouse somewhere for 30+ years!


James.... :-)
 

blu_fuz

Well-Known Member
Staff member
My fav is also original finish. But sometimes there is nothing wrong with a well done color change.
 

caution

Member (SA)
Yeah, I think doing a new silver is about as far as I'd feel comfortable going at least on this box, my gut tells me my adventures in Conion aren't over when I'm done with this one. Jimmy you make a good point, it certainly would make carrying it around less stressful!!

I did contact a local customs shop and they had no problem taking a look. If I could get them to do all the prep work on it, I may bite.
 

caution

Member (SA)
It will be sanded, filled and painted by Friday :-) They don't have Toyota silver but they are going to call me in when they have some samples of what they have for use on bumpers, which isn't glossy.