Finally broke down and bought a set: TENERGY 10,000 mAh

[Lasonic TRC-920]

This has turned into a fantastic thread.

By far my most power hungry blaster I own is the Wheely. I have slaughtered brand new Duracell's in as little as 4 hours! I have done that on three different occasions. Of course this was out doors at full clip.

The first night I put these batteries in I pounded the Wheely for an hour. Today. While cleaning the garage, I had AC/DC delivering the goods for three full hours and so far they haven't blinked. LEDs bright, woofer's in full excursion and ears fully ringing.

 

[Transistorized]

This has turned into a fantastic thread.

By far my most power hungry blaster I own is the Wheely. I have slaughtered brand new Duracell's in as little as 4 hours! I have done that on three different occasions. Of course this was out doors at full clip.

The first night I put these batteries in I pounded the Wheely for an hour. Today. While cleaning the garage, I had AC/DC delivering the goods for three full hours and so far they haven't blinked. LEDs bright, woofer's in full excursion and ears fully ringing.

Well so far they've already saved you a set of D's. Every 4 hours subtract the cost of 10 Alkaline batteries from your purchase cost. It won't take long before you are in the +

Another thing Jimmyjimmy touched on earlier. You will find that you enjoy your boxes portability more now because there isn't the constant cost of replacing Alkalines. That deters people.

So in a way these batteries not only save you money but eliminate the continued cost of running your boxes outside or..anywhere for that matter. It breathes new life into the hobby.

 

[Lasonic TRC-920]

This has turned into a fantastic thread.

By far my most power hungry blaster I own is the Wheely. I have slaughtered brand new Duracell's in as little as 4 hours! I have done that on three different occasions. Of course this was out doors at full clip.

The first night I put these batteries in I pounded the Wheely for an hour. Today. While cleaning the garage, I had AC/DC delivering the goods for three full hours and so far they haven't blinked. LEDs bright, woofer's in full excursion and ears fully ringing.

Well so far they've already saved you a set of D's. Every 4 hours subtract the cost of 10 Alkaline batteries from your purchase cost. It won't take long before you are in the +

Another thing Jimmyjimmy touched on earlier. You will find that you enjoy your boxes portability more now because there isn't the constant cost of replacing Alkalines. That deters people.

So in a way these batteries not only save you money but eliminate the continued cost of running your boxes outside or..anywhere for that matter. It breathes new life into the hobby.

So True!

Here I was paying $20-$25 per set. So 4 uses of the Wheely. BTW, this is the first time the Wheely has had batteries in it in a year!

I have radio's that sip batteries, but none of that matters now.

Thank you to everyone that has added to this conversation over the years.

I'm now of the side that is saying "Man, you gotta make the investment!"

 

[Transistorized]

Curious to find out the maximum amount of hours you have gotten out of the batteries on that beast

Last I heard the Energizer bunny was being chased by a Tenergy and is currently MIA

 

[Lasonic TRC-920]

Curious to find out the maximum amount of hours you have gotten out of the batteries on that beast

Last I heard the Energizer bunny was being chased by a Tenergy and is currently MIA

Me too, I'm already to the where the Duracells typically died. Once I do kill these and recharge, I am going to try them in the VZ2000. That's a power hungry beast too!

 

[trippy1313]

Curious to find out the maximum amount of hours you have gotten out of the batteries on that beast

Last I heard the Energizer bunny was being chased by a Tenergy and is currently MIA

Me too, I'm already to the where the Duracells typically died. Once I do kill these and recharge, I am going to try them in the VZ2000. That's a power hungry beast too!

This was always my question with these that has held me from buying them.

The question of "Do they last longer than Duracell Alkalines?"

It would appear that may be a YES???

I was worried with the starting voltage of 1.36 versus an alkines roughly 1.6v that maybe the performance would be less off the bat and not last as long as long.

 

[Lasonic TRC-920]

Curious to find out the maximum amount of hours you have gotten out of the batteries on that beast

Last I heard the Energizer bunny was being chased by a Tenergy and is currently MIA

Me too, I'm already to the where the Duracells typically died. Once I do kill these and recharge, I am going to try them in the VZ2000. That's a power hungry beast too!

This was always my question with these that has held me from buying them.

The question of "Do they last longer than Duracell Alkalines?"

It would appear that may be a YES???

I was worried with the starting voltage of 1.36 versus an alkines roughly 1.6v that maybe the performance would be less off the bat and not last as long as long.




Prior to this purchase and this thread I was told these were about the same as Durcells in terms of power and time of use.

I haven't cranked up this week. I have some repairmen repairing a wall in the house. After they are finished this week, THE POUNDING WILL COMMENCE!

We'll see how much more these Tenergy's have left in them. I would be very surprised if it's much more, as the Wheely and those 10" speakers are just PIGS!

 

[metalhandbag]

It will be interesting to see how long they last .

 

[trippy1313]

RayHom D Batteries Rechargeable 10,000mAh Ni-MH High Capacity Battery (12 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076SZCJKT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kmI7AbQJPCM6D

I see these on Amazon too. They only came out in October 2017 though, so I'm curious if they're any good too.

They claim 10,000mah, and low self discharge (80% after 3 years), 1200 cycles, at a pretty good price. With a 12 month warranty?

But I suppose if they're out of business in a year that doesn't matter much so... hmm...

 

[jimmyjimmy19702010]

One way to check if D cell rechargeable batteries really are 10,000 maH is to check the weight per cell. eBay sellers usually give these details somewhere in the descriptions.

 

[trippy1313]

One way to check if D cell rechargeable batteries really are 10,000 maH is to check the weight per cell. eBay sellers usually give these details somewhere in the descriptions.

Yeah some of them mention them being heavy, but I was looking through the reviews, and only 3 most recent of the 18 had reviewed more than just this product. The other 15 these were their first and only review. All 18 were 5 stars though. So.... maybe at least the last 3 are honest reviews.
..

 

[Superduper]

I just ordered a set of Tenergy 5000mah "C" cells because I'm tired of buying the alkaline batteries at $13 a pack of 10. I use them in my LED flashlight every night for about 10 minutes when I let the dogs out at night so I can keep track of them as they are off leash. One set of 3 in my flashlight only lasts about a week or two before they get unacceptably dim. Hopefully they work and if so, then over the long run, should save me some moola.

 

[Transistorized]

Yeah. In today's era Alkalines have met their match except for one thing. They'll hold a charge for 10 years with no use. Other than that rechargeable NiMH batteries are the way to go and Lipo where voltage differences permit

 

[Lasonic TRC-920]

OK, update and more questions...

So, after about a week and a half of not using the Wheely and after brutally pounding the fark out of it for 4 straight hours, I pulled the Tenergy's out and put them in the TRC-975, another power hungry radio. The 975 powered up, but no sound and dim "Power" lights. I wasn't really surprised. If the Wheely killed the Tenergy's in four hours, they are right on pair with 10 Duracell's. RIGHT???

...on to the charger they go...except for this...

3 of the four on the charger are charging and show HALF FULL and one is blinking as "BAD"!!!!

I removed that one, replaced it with another battery....it shows as "BAD".

I replaced that one with another battery and it is charging and showing HALF charged.

I haven't placed the other 4 on the charger yet, so I don't know if any of them are having this issue. But so far, 2 out of ten are showing as bad.

So, the questions...

Even though I never heard any power loss or distortion from the radio, did the Wheely push these too far (the Wheely must have done it, not me! ) Did the Wheely at full power CRUSH these into oblivion?

What is next? Do I do a discharge on them and see if they recover?

Do I contact the seller?

Are they defective?

Should I have pulled them right out of the radio and recharged them? i.e. not let them sit for a week and a half?

The interesting thing is, the others were at half, that means if these weak links wouldn't have failed, then I would still have 4 more hours to go (potentially)

Transitorized, back to you......

 

[HRmeteohub]

Introduction:
Well, this sound just like a matter of (at first) small difference in original capacity of these batteries.
You should consider this scenario:
1. - all batteries are charged 100% (and therefore have the same voltage).
2. - Just as described on last post, you used some of that energy. Shall we say 50% of their charge.
3. - One battery (the "BAD") has got 10-20% smaller capacity than the others.
4. - Therefore that one has discharged 70% of it's charge, meaning it has got lower voltage.
5. - You put the batteries in and press "Play". What happens next? From the perspective of this one battery - the one with lowest voltage (most drained one).
6. - Current starts to flow through the batteries and BoomBox. As usual, this one battery suddenly has got the NEGATIVE voltage on it's positive terminal, and vice-versa. Basically, other batteries are trying to charge it - BUT WITH inverted polarity! Since this is a big no-no, it gets discharged rapidly (on the expense of others in the set), and goes "BAD" really fast/first.

Discussion and conclusion:
That is why the battery with lowest capacity dies first. Although to be fair, it is not really dead, just drained too much. That probably decreased it's capacity a bit.
Charge it cautiously (keep an eye on it - temperature wise - for at least first charging), and try to put it in set with other batteries with smaller capacity. I would measure the capacity, and than write/talk to seller.
However, if the battery can not reach nominal voltage (cn not be charged fully), or drop below certain level, they are bad, and should be returned.

Why first Box wanted to play, but the second did not:
They are build to be sensitive to battery voltage in a different way (unintentionally). Since all batteries are a bit empty, and at least one "bad", that means the working voltage of the set was too low for second 975. To be fair, both Ni-Cd and Ni-MH have nominal voltage (1.2V) that is a bit low compared to Alkaline batteries (1.5V), that they do not need to be completely drained (less than 30% of capacity) to create problems.
For example My Nintendo Wii nunchuk is so sensitive that my Ni-MH batteries are at least 50% full/empty when the nunchak refuses to work anymore.


Rant-on:
Was I only one that noticed that gray batteries were Ni-Cd, and white version is Ni-MH? Did you know that Ni-MH have higher internal resistance and therefore have a limit of max current somewhere about 4-5 Amperes? That means they will spontaneously discharge faster than Ni-Cd, and they will not give so much current as Ni-CD. But at last, Ni-MH do not suffer from "memory effect" (no need to discharge them completely before charging).
By the way, as time goes by, I am less and less impressed by Duracell (and Energizer). After other big player in the batt. basically left the alkaline battery "field" (e.g. Varta, Sanyo, Panasonic, TDK) to them, the (Duracell) got sold&resold, until the company is just a shadow of itself (Energizer). The pricing "improved", of course. Did you not notice how bulk of the batteries are made in couple locations in the world ? That is called "thin-long-supply-chain" and it is not good for us.

Finally... Sorry for rant, I just had my lunch, all blood is in the stomach, so I am rambling...

 

[Superduper]

Chris, did you measure the voltage of the cells that are reading bad? Also, did you swap the supposed “bad” cells to a different spot on the charger to see if they still read “bad”? Maybe try that to see if the charger is confused or misreading the cell health, at least to confirm.

Prior to the current TOTL cell technology (Li-on), the prior was NiMH in portable tools. I used to have a Hitachi tool with NiMH cells that I would use until the drill would no longer drill a hole or spin a screw. At that point, I would swap in a fresh pack and put the drained pack into the charger. Did that for almost a decade. The batteries would always come off the charger fresh and ready to use. Never complained a peep.

As for your current cells, I personally would never have left drained cells alone for 10 days. I would have charged them immediately after use, but perhaps that’s just me. Anyhow, if you can confirm that those cells are bad, I would notify the seller & have him replace the bad cells.

 

[Lasonic TRC-920]

Introduction:
Well, this sound just like a matter of (at first) small difference in original capacity of these batteries.
You should consider this scenario:
1. - all batteries are charged 100% (and therefore have the same voltage).
2. - Just as described on last post, you used some of that energy. Shall we say 50% of their charge.
3. - One battery (the "BAD") has got 10-20% smaller capacity than the others.
4. - Therefore that one has discharged 70% of it's charge, meaning it has got lower voltage.
5. - You put the batteries in and press "Play". What happens next? From the perspective of this one battery - the one with lowest voltage (most drained one).
6. - Current starts to flow through the batteries and BoomBox. As usual, this one battery suddenly has got the NEGATIVE voltage on it's positive terminal, and vice-versa. Basically, other batteries are trying to charge it - BUT WITH inverted polarity! Since this is a big no-no, it gets discharged rapidly (on the expense of others in the set), and goes "BAD" really fast/first.

Discussion and conclusion:
That is why the battery with lowest capacity dies first. Although to be fair, it is not really dead, just drained too much. That probably decreased it's capacity a bit.
Charge it cautiously (keep an eye on it - temperature wise - for at least first charging), and try to put it in set with other batteries with smaller capacity. I would measure the capacity, and than write/talk to seller.
However, if the battery can not reach nominal voltage (cn not be charged fully), or drop below certain level, they are bad, and should be returned.

Why first Box wanted to play, but the second did not:
They are build to be sensitive to battery voltage in a different way (unintentionally). Since all batteries are a bit empty, and at least one "bad", that means the working voltage of the set was too low for second 975. To be fair, both Ni-Cd and Ni-MH have nominal voltage (1.2V) that is a bit low compared to Alkaline batteries (1.5V), that they do not need to be completely drained (less than 30% of capacity) to create problems.
For example My Nintendo Wii nunchuk is so sensitive that my Ni-MH batteries are at least 50% full/empty when the nunchak refuses to work anymore.


Rant-on:
Was I only one that noticed that gray batteries were Ni-Cd, and white version is Ni-MH? Did you know that Ni-MH have higher internal resistance and therefore have a limit of max current somewhere about 4-5 Amperes? That means they will spontaneously discharge faster than Ni-Cd, and they will not give so much current as Ni-CD. But at last, Ni-MH do not suffer from "memory effect" (no need to discharge them completely before charging).
By the way, as time goes by, I am less and less impressed by Duracell (and Energizer). After other big player in the batt. basically left the alkaline battery "field" (e.g. Varta, Sanyo, Panasonic, TDK) to them, the (Duracell) got sold&resold, until the company is just a shadow of itself (Energizer). The pricing "improved", of course. Did you not notice how bulk of the batteries are made in couple locations in the world ? That is called "thin-long-supply-chain" and it is not good for us.

Finally... Sorry for rant, I just had my lunch, all blood is in the stomach, so I am rambling...

Great information here....Below I will post where I'm at with this....

Chris, did you measure the voltage of the cells that are reading bad? Also, did you swap the supposed “bad” cells to a different spot on the charger to see if they still read “bad”? Maybe try that to see if the charger is confused or misreading the cell health, at least to confirm.

Prior to the current TOTL cell technology (Li-on), the prior was NiMH in portable tools. I used to have a Hitachi tool with NiMH cells that I would use until the drill would no longer drill a hole or spin a screw. At that point, I would swap in a fresh pack and put the drained pack into the charger. Did that for almost a decade. The batteries would always come off the charger fresh and ready to use. Never complained a peep.

As for your current cells, I personally would never have left drained cells alone for 10 days. I would have charged them immediately after use, but perhaps that’s just me. Anyhow, if you can confirm that those cells are bad, I would notify the seller & have him replace the bad cells.

I did not test the voltage on a meter prior to recharging, I need to remind myself to start doing that.

Yes, I did move them to another spot on the charger, but got the same issue. What I did do was swap in batteries that did charge and let them go through that process. I ended up with 4 "Bad".

So, here is what I am at...

Based on some of the information from HRmeteohub (above) I put in all 4 of the "Bad" batteries at once after the good batteries were finished charging. I then pushed the DISCHARGE button twice. The screen flashed "discharge" for about 2 seconds and they started charging with the batteries showing only one bar flashing on and off. The interesting this is, with in just a few minutes of charging, the meters on all 4 batteries jumped to half (minimum) with the next bar up flashing.

Did they have half power, like the other 6 indicated when they were first put on the charger?

Was something tripped in the microprocessor that monitors the cells?

If this was the case, is it possible that the Wheely, in fact only used half the actual power? Which would still indicate these would last 8 hours instead of 4 hours like a set of Duracells have in the past.

More battery questions....

The Energizer 2400 cells I used to have claimed a recharging cycle of 1000 uses. Are the Tenergy's rated the same? If I take the batteries out of the radio after 3 hours of use, pup them on the charger and top them off, is that "1"?

Is it best to use them for 6-7-8 hours then charge them, and that is "1" charge?

I'm just trying to figure out how to get the very most out of these.

I think it's going to take a while to learn the little idiosyncrasies of these things.

 

[Lasonic TRC-920]

UPDATE: 1 hour later, still charging...

 

[HRmeteohub]

Well, the best way to answer your questions could be by measuring the voltage of the "bad" cells, as Superduper said.

Therefore, if you are into testing and repair you should invest in more capable instrument. I would say go for Fluke, but ... If you do not want to invest in such instrument, perhaps some of the battery testers could help you. I got mine at Lidl, but internet is full of them. Try to buy one with digital voltage read-out. That little instrument with "good-low-bad" scale is not useful.

 

[Lasonic TRC-920]

Well, the best way to answer your questions could be by measuring the voltage of the "bad" cells, as Superduper said.

Therefore, if you are into testing and repair you should invest in more capable instrument. I would say go for Fluke, but ... If you do not want to invest in such instrument, perhaps some of the battery testers could help you. I got mine at Lidl, but internet is full of them. Try to buy one with digital voltage read-out. That little instrument with "good-low-bad" scale is not useful.

I have a an OK digital meter, I just forgot to test them. Will do next time they come out of a box.

UPDATE: Still charging, we'll see where they are in the morning.