CUSTOM COLORED CONION

What color should I paint my C-100F?

  • Candy Red: Apple or Wild Cherry

    Votes: 9 17.3%
  • Pearl White

    Votes: 13 25.0%
  • Gloss Black

    Votes: 7 13.5%
  • Greens: Emerald, Seafoam/ Mint, Lime

    Votes: 3 5.8%
  • Pearl Orange

    Votes: 3 5.8%
  • Graffiti the whole box

    Votes: 9 17.3%
  • Golds: Kandy, pearl, or metallic

    Votes: 5 9.6%
  • Kandy Rootbeer

    Votes: 3 5.8%
  • Pinks or Purples

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I.D.G.A.F

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    52
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JustCruisin

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Jan 28, 2012
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Gluecifer said:
Beautiful colours!!! Great choice!



Rock On.
Thanks, I'd like to think its somewhat Rick Shithouse inspired! Goin for that 80's Electro/ Breakin/ Hip Hop Graffiti look..

gsbadbmr said:
:jawdrop:

I must have missed this thread last year when i took 1 year off from the internet :blush: ...can't wait to see the finished product :thumbsup: .

I voted for "grafitti" but no matter what you do i'm sure it will look good. Just don't do it red...i saw it done in red and it looked like cr@p :lol:
Actually, next step is graffiti.. Either on the top or on the grilles..

-GZ- said:
Are those Lasonic woofers?
They are.. The C-100's are 5.4 ohm and Lasonic are 4 ohm, hopefully that is close enough...?
 

JustCruisin

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Jan 28, 2012
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THAFUZZ said:
This is exciting to watch. Keep those pics coming James.
Yes Adam, these shots are live feed from the booth!image.jpgimage.jpg

Any body remember in scarface where frank gets capped?? This CONION reminds me of his office walls and palm trees..:surf:
 

baddboybill

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Jul 14, 2009
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No worries..Your Conion will be fine. ;-)


Actually it can cause issues. You can go to a higher ohm but not lower, it can be dangerous on amp chips and can overheat, especially since the Conion chips are well known to blow out easily :yes:


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

oldskool69

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baddboybill said:
Actually it can cause issues. You can go to a higher ohm but not lower, it can be dangerous on amp chips and can overheat, especially since the Conion chips are well known to blow out easily :yes:

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Not disagreeing with what you are saying as we have had this discussion many times before elsewhere on the site. My statement was based on the speaker not being a radical change and my undersatnding of the Conions configuration. Going from 8 down to 4, or 6 to 2 is radical. It has been stated before that there is a given operating range for amp chips and the Conion's chips should be ok from 5.6 to 4.

What one can do, and I highly recommend, is to get into these boomers (if you feel you can) remove those heatsinks and get that old worn out heat transfer paste off the chip and heatsink. I recommend replacing with Ceramique 2 or well rated non conductive thermal transfer paste. I have found out more often than not, failure was due to loss of integrity with the paste and plain old poor contact between the heatsink and chip itself. A reset after 30 years never hurts. :-)
 

hemiguy2006

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May 5, 2009
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This is turning out incredible!!!!
On the woofers, less resistance will mean more of a demand on the amp chips.
If you are carefull not to overdrive the volume you should be ok though.
 

oldskool69

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hemiguy2006 said:
This is turning out incredible!!!!
On the woofers, less resistance will mean more of a demand on the amp chips.
If you are carefull not to overdrive the volume you should be ok though.
Frank is absolutely correct on the demand related to the amp chips (the point is avoiding clipping), but they are designed to go 4Ω ...See below.

Hitachi HA1392 Data Sheet Excerpt:

Conion C100 HA1392.jpg
HA1392 Amp Layout.jpg

The real question is the heat sink and components around it which allow it to breathe. See the heat sink on the photo below of the Conion/Helix and whatever other name it has.

dsc06989bvn.jpg

Look at the white stuff around the chip. Do you think it has solid contact with the heat sink and sufficiently, properly applied thermal paste across the entire chip? My two cents and common sense says no. This is where removal of the heat sink, cleaning of chip and heat sink, verification and adjustment of fit up is done, then application of fresh thermal transfer paste, and reassembly is done. I can tell you straight up that when I have a need to open mine up it's something I do as long as I'm in there. The paste WILL break down over time and heat cycles create gaps and air pockets. Or, depending on the makeup, become an oily residue similar to what happens when peanut butter loses it bond and you see the oil on top.

On another note, although it's not a gigantic heat sink, it is finned which is what you want versus some small plate of aluminum or steel seen in a great many boomers. Also check for loose connections and leaky caps. (If you look just above the phono/aux switch you'll see what I mean about the caps.)

:-)
 

JustCruisin

Member (SA)
Jan 28, 2012
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Thanks for comments everyone, did a little more work to it.. Drilled out some dice for antenna toppers and rechromed the tweeter grilles.. I'll probably paint the dice to go w/ the color scheme..image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 

Beosystem10

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Feb 21, 2013
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oldskool69 said:
SNAP!!!! The dice set it off BEAUTIFULLY!!! :thumbsup: :clap: :thumbsup: :clap:
As is usually so when Freddie has said something, :agree: 100%. :thumbsup:

And I'm liking very much the way that the colour change from side to side is so incredibly smooth, in spite of the fact that each individual shade you've used is quite bold. Your talent for painting is obvious from these pictures and OK, so you're using good quality rattle cans but I believe that your raw talent is the major factor in how good this looks. I'm very envious and the work is awesome. :yes:
 

k2j

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Mar 28, 2011
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Awesome James, you are truly talented! So glad you've decided graffiti much better choice for your skillz man. :popcorn: :dj-party:
 
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