Bummed with the sound 777Z
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Joe Man I'm Sorry Your 777Z dont sound well. Man That 777H I got from you is On Point. It Lives out side. and I use it more than any of my other boxes. I Hope you get it the way you want it.
Excellent point James!jimmyjimmy19702010 said:Re-cap? The tone board has caps. My Hitachi TRK-9300 sounded flat with no treble until the re-cap - plenty of highs now even with piezo tweeters + nice solid bass.
James.....
That explains why my 777 sounds very good to me...Down the road we all have to re-cap them.... ouch! It is lots of work! But makes them work like new//
I've done so many cap replacements in full. If you run into issues finding caps with 3 leads I can be of help!
I can teach you how to make that ground lead. I was stuck with this issue when I did a 100% recapping on state of the art German 14 valve tube radios with autotuning.
The 777 I had in the 1990s sounded great, so the sound you are hearing is not "the original sound".
If you looked at my restoration threads, you've got all the knowledge right there......
https://boomboxery.com/forum/index.php/topic/17944-my-gf-777z-project-2-ohm-stable/
https://boomboxery.com/forum/index.php/topic/20597-my-sharp-gf-777z-project-full-output/
https://boomboxery.com/forum/index.php/topic/19847-my-2nd-gf-777z-project-m70-sizzle/
I use 2-OHM BOSE CADILLAC WOOFERS & M70 Tweeters. They all bolt up with very little modding & sound great. The 2-OHM woofers can pull 10+ watts per channel, ALL DAY LONG!!
Good luck,
Cpl
https://boomboxery.com/forum/index.php/topic/17944-my-gf-777z-project-2-ohm-stable/
https://boomboxery.com/forum/index.php/topic/20597-my-sharp-gf-777z-project-full-output/
https://boomboxery.com/forum/index.php/topic/19847-my-2nd-gf-777z-project-m70-sizzle/
I use 2-OHM BOSE CADILLAC WOOFERS & M70 Tweeters. They all bolt up with very little modding & sound great. The 2-OHM woofers can pull 10+ watts per channel, ALL DAY LONG!!
Good luck,
Cpl
Do you mean you replace the NP passive crossover caps?baddboybill said:Recapping just the tweeters may solve the issues with the highs
Bad Boy Bill
Do you mean you replace the NP passive crossover caps?
Yes I'm sure this could help with highs
Bad Boy Bill
Yes I'm sure this could help with highs
Bad Boy Bill
I think your right... Not sure why i can't remember lol but I think I did my beat to dirt blockbuster years ago and yes it has crystal highs.baddboybill said:Yes I'm sure this could help with highs
Bad Boy Bill
Part of the problem of highs in my opinion is that the 4.7uF caps used in the 777Z cross the tweeters over at 8300Hz which is too high in my opinion. Cutting that in half to 4000Hz would be a great start which needs a 10uF cap. Also, Polyester/Metal film caps are best for clear audio, especially in the critical mid-range frequencies. If you use an 8-OHM tweeter like the M70's, I use a 6,8uF CAP for a roughly 3000Hz roll-off point. Also, hi-end crossovers NEVER use electrolytics.
A 3K roll-off point sounds good & isn't too much for the tweeters as far as wattage & transients.
Cheers,
Cpl
A 3K roll-off point sounds good & isn't too much for the tweeters as far as wattage & transients.
Cheers,
Cpl
Here's a video of my 777Z with m70 Tweeters & the 4 BOSE 2-OHM woofers. 2 Woofers are Cadillac BOSE sub-woofers & 2 are BOSE Cadillac mid/bass-woofers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGbOtuHIrGM
Notice the mids & highs are crisper & more detailed, even after being recorded by my HI-DEF handheld corder.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGbOtuHIrGM
Notice the mids & highs are crisper & more detailed, even after being recorded by my HI-DEF handheld corder.
......And here, at about half way through this video, I really turn it up & bring the camera closer for a view of the woofers hopping so watch it all the way through to see. This beast is LOUD & clean too.....
VIEW IN FULL-SCREEN & 720HD to view properly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5Cg_kHHKJI
you can see how much travel these Sub-Woofers are getting at half-volume & the sound is quite balanced & warm for a blaster, especially the 777Z.
The reason I went for 2-OHM woofers is because 2-OHM drivers work at the top range of the AMP IC's current limits & even tho others caution against this, I believe that the SHARP flagship can take it in spades. The heatsinks, although very simple, square 'U' shaped aluminum, are huge for the size of the IC. Yes, other blasters have more efficient sinks but these are giant thick plates & the IC's don't even get warm when pumping out the juice & at normal room temperatures.
Also, the IC's have an operating range of 2-16 OHMS, includes a thermal trip in case junctions get too hot & can put out a total of 45w @ 2.4-OHMS. They are the same IC's that drive the mighty CONION C-100 & the C-100 runs 5.4 OHM woofers in a push/pull setup. This translates to about 2.4 OHMS load to each channel.
So, by using 2.3-2.5 OHM nominal loads on each channel of the 777Z, I am in fact drawing as much power out as the CONION C-100. That's why I use these speakers specifically, so that I do not have to add extra amp circuits to drive my woofers effectively. Instead, I change the electrical operating range to draw the power that is available. They sound really good too, as you might be able to see from the videos.
Cheers,
Cpl
VIEW IN FULL-SCREEN & 720HD to view properly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5Cg_kHHKJI
you can see how much travel these Sub-Woofers are getting at half-volume & the sound is quite balanced & warm for a blaster, especially the 777Z.
The reason I went for 2-OHM woofers is because 2-OHM drivers work at the top range of the AMP IC's current limits & even tho others caution against this, I believe that the SHARP flagship can take it in spades. The heatsinks, although very simple, square 'U' shaped aluminum, are huge for the size of the IC. Yes, other blasters have more efficient sinks but these are giant thick plates & the IC's don't even get warm when pumping out the juice & at normal room temperatures.
Also, the IC's have an operating range of 2-16 OHMS, includes a thermal trip in case junctions get too hot & can put out a total of 45w @ 2.4-OHMS. They are the same IC's that drive the mighty CONION C-100 & the C-100 runs 5.4 OHM woofers in a push/pull setup. This translates to about 2.4 OHMS load to each channel.
So, by using 2.3-2.5 OHM nominal loads on each channel of the 777Z, I am in fact drawing as much power out as the CONION C-100. That's why I use these speakers specifically, so that I do not have to add extra amp circuits to drive my woofers effectively. Instead, I change the electrical operating range to draw the power that is available. They sound really good too, as you might be able to see from the videos.
Cheers,
Cpl
So those alpines that have the woofer and inner speaker, is that inner like having another tweeter?
Yes, the Co-axial car speakers are in fact a woofer & tweeter in 1 speaker & the tweeter usually has a capacitor inline to cross the tweeter over in the right range....riker1068 said:
Cpl
With Jimmy's pictures for his 767 speaker upgrade I was able to get my Alpines mounted no problem.
The screws I found were just a tad long, simply filing 1/8" off the tip keeps them from poking through the front of the boombox case. Very easy to do and you don't need to hack apart the original wiring or connectors to fit these Alpines.
And the final result is to die for
. Sounds and looks worlds better.
The screws I found were just a tad long, simply filing 1/8" off the tip keeps them from poking through the front of the boombox case. Very easy to do and you don't need to hack apart the original wiring or connectors to fit these Alpines.
And the final result is to die for
. Sounds and looks worlds better.
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