Truck RIMS! LOOOOK

This right now this is my favorite. It is a 22-24" LTZ Silverado "Texas Edition" replica wheel. I honestly like the machine face and am curious to see a chrome set installed. I like the flush wheel-to-fender look and the oversized spokes make it look cartoon-ish like a Hotwheels toy. I like it.
I'm not sure which size to get. The 40 series tire on the 22" sounds better than a 35 series tire on a 24". A little more tire protection is a good thing. I do tow a 30' travel trailer, so do I need to take the tire size into consideration? I wish we could rock a 24" with 40 series tire, then it wouldn't be so hard to decide!
Either way, check these out and tell me what you think:

On this Avalanche I don't like the silver wheel clashing with the chrome grill and mirror covers. Looks strange. Almost should have no chrome on the body/mirrors and just the black grill with chrome ring. OR, this truck, same wheel, but chromed might be perrrrrfect.



I think my Avalanche could pull off the look of the machined 24". Can anyone photo shop those 24's on my stock ride height AV?




Here's a better pic for photochopping:

You're gonna tow a 30' trailer on a truck with rubber bands for tires??? Good luck.

I have factory 20's on my silverado hd & they have less capacity than the factory 18's which I'm thinking hard whether to swap those in instead.

It looks great!

One downside of low profile tires is that we lose the 'riding comfort' because of less cushion effect from those thin tires.
It will over labor the suspension a lot also.
Do you agree?

Nothing a lift kit and bigger tires can't fix...you only get one set of kidneys to pound on, ya know.

Superduper said:

You're gonna tow a 30' trailer on a truck with rubber bands for tires??? Good luck.

I have factory 20's on my silverado hd & they have less capacity than the factory 18's which I'm thinking hard whether to swap those in instead.

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Agree with Soopadoop on this one. I tow, and haul in the bed of my truck, a 2102 Ram 1500, lots of stuff. The factory wheels are about as far as I would take it. Lo-pro tire rim combos are crap when it comes to towing. They screw up the tranny and engine factors designed into the truck.

My truck does have a 6L, 4:10 gears, HD tow package with tranny cooler, autoride rear air suspension and firestone coil spring air bags.

I'm more worried about the small tires than the truck mechanicals.

blu_fuz said:

My truck does have a 6L, 4:10 gears, HD tow package with tranny cooler, autoride rear air suspension and firestone coil spring air bags.

I'm more worried about the small tires than the truck mechanicals.

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Those factors I'm getting at are what you mentioned (wear and tear/tires) plus fuel economy (what little is there when towing), plus load on the suspension and additional transmission wear through heat. (Shift points will definitely be affected.)

When they set these truck up for towing, those calcs, including cooling and engine efficiency are calculated based on the supplied equipment. You can take any 1/2 ton or 1 ton pickup and see the myriad of capabilities depending on how it's equipped. Once you get outside those limits is where the problems lie. What I would do is this, when not towing, break out the bling, when towing, put the right shoes on. No different than winter rims/tires, summer rim/tires for sports cars.

^ I could do that. We only drive about 1 hour each way to the campgrounds we go to and it is pretty flat 55mph roads too. Anymore than that I would surely switch to stock wheels.

Like mentioned, the only down side is pinching the tire sidewall with all that weight.

I LOVE the look on low profile tires, but wouldn't put them on a truck towing. Low profile tires don't have the same weight limits as REAL truck tires.

Dang....

I think your Truck looks good the way it is and best of all it works fine the way it is.......


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Thanks skip but I have the urge to TOUCH IT!

Think about it, psi = pounds per square inch. The air pressure inside the tires is what supports your truck & the load. The bigger the tire, the greater the surface area. Multiply air pressure by surface area and you'll have greater reactive support. In other words, more tire surface area means greater supportive capacity. If you shrink tire surface area, you'll need to increase tire pressure. My 3/4 ton pickup can support ~ 3000 pounds cargo in the bed. To do this, my tires need to be at 80 psi. I can't imagine a scenario where such tiny tires can support any kind of working load. It's for looks, for show. If you want the truck to do work, you'll need to make sure you swap them back out. If your travel trailer weighs 5000 pounds, the minimum tongue weight is 500 with min 750 recommended to prevent trailer away and safe operation. Due to fulcrum leverage effect of the tongue weight at the ball instead of evenly distributed over the rear axle, the true effective load on the rear axle/tires will be far more than the 750. Will your tires safely handle that load? Check the weight capacity on the sidewall of those tires & compare to your stock tires before loading up.

Also carefully assess the metal composition of the rim. I've never bought aftermarket for my truck but I've had all kinds of car rims and some alloys are soft like butter. OZ are the worst. Running 40 series over potholes eventually mangled them beyond belief.

Everywhere I have read about towing with 24" wheels and low profile tires, everyone says there are no problems. Be mindful of the weight put on the tires and the aftermarket wheels and avoid potholes if you can..... just make sure the tires are rated properly.

Yokhama Advan 305/35R24 tire with these specs:
Load Max. 2469 lbs.
305/35R24
Load Index 112 = 2484lbs (1129kg) per tire
Speed Rating “W” = 168mph (270kph) 112W RF Treadwear: 320
Traction: A
Temperature: A320 A A

Maybe I could stick with 22" for peace of mind.....

I'm thinking that living in WI, you would be more interested in taller rugged lugged tires that expels snow, rather than paper thin urban tires but I've been young before and wanted things badly..... non-sensical impractical things........ so I guess I understand although at my age, I now know better what life's priorities should be. I know I loved my Avalanche Z-71 to death, but luckily didn't have to buy or add anything to it because it was fully decked out and had everything I wanted.

In any event, if you are dead set on getting those type of rims/tires, then you probably should do some math beforehand just so you know for sure..

(1) Seems the tires can hold 4938 based on the capacities x2 of your tire ratings. Not sure what is the curb axle weight is for your truck but the Avalanche should weigh in (empty with full tank & ONE driver) close to 6000#'s. If we estimate 1/2 over the rear axle, then that's 3000# giving you 1938# tire (not axle) capacity left over to max out.

(2) You should figure out or estimate how much your 30' trailer weighs in at. A 30' wildwood travel trailer weighs in at 6884 lbs with an additional 2777# payload meaning the gvwr is just shy of 10,000# If you have a similar trailer and it's completely empty (basic)..... come on, seriously?.......... then it's just around 7000# with a hitch weight of 900#. Of course anything added to the front area such as battery, toolbox, special hitch jack, spare tire etc. should be added to the hitch weight.

(3) Take the 1938# tire capacity and deduct anything you have in the bed, any weight overage of 24" wheel/tire combo vs stock, anything in the bedside toolbox compartments, and note the difference.

(4) Calculate tongue weight effedt on axle using the following formula:
((wheelbase + rear overhang) x tongue load / wheelbase)
Far as I know, the avalance wheelbase is 130"
Rear overhang is 59.2" but depending upon your hitch & ball, you probably should add that measurement. Due to leverage effect and because some hitches hang out quite a bit, you should not overlook this additional measurement.

Do the math and cross your fingers that you are under the limits with some reserve capacity. Or do what I did, upgrade to the 2500HD with diesel, then never look back.

Yep, totally agree with Norm. Even if the salesman says "They'll be fine" and others say "I did it before, it was fine".

I used to run a 2000 Escalade with a 6 inch lift and 33 in Super Swapper's towing a 30' 1989 Terry travel trailer that when loaded weighed close to 7,000 lbs. The truck had a towing capacity of 8,900 lbs. When it came time to pick out wheels I ended up having to spend close to $400 per wheel for some Weld Wheel "Mountain Crushers" because they were forged aluminum with a much higher strength rating than the flashy racing wheels with bead locks that I wanted that were only $220 per wheel.

Even though the truck had an 8,900 lbs towing capacity, I still had to upgrade the differential, add a finned diff cover, add an extra load spring and use a leveling hitch.

Camping is fun, but towing is no joke especially when you got the family in the vehicle. My rig was close to 50 feet long and well over 10,000 lbs. Once set up, it was a blast! Loved it. But I never had to change a tire on the side of the road, which would require disconnecting the trailer to get the weight off the truck NOT FUN! Plus, would you have a matching spare? I did, but it still would have SUCKED!

Damn it!




Ok, ok, ok.


I'll stop looking at 24's.

I see it all the time on the highway where guys, and in regular cars, with 24's and barely any rubber just sitting on side of road because they hit a pothole and blew out tire or damaged rim causing tire to go flat. And you want to use it on a truck that you tow a camper with? Just my own opinion but I'd say the guys are right and you should just keep it the same. The manufacturer always puts the best size wheel and tires on the car/truck for a reason


Bad Boy Bill