REPAIRS: What scares you the most?

What repairs will you not do?

  • Paint, Scratches, Wear, Over Polishing, Fading

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Speaker Grill Dents

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Tuner Plex-Glass Cracks

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Missing or Broken Battery Cover

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Speaker / Tweeter Replacement

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Dirty / Scratchy Controls (volumes, bass, treble, eq)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • You only buy Perfect 100% radios

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    25
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Lasonic TRC-920

Moderator
Ghettoboom767 said:
I think we all forgot about re-stringing a tuner!! I've dine one and you need a photographic memory for this one!!
Tracing bad components scares me without a schematic!
Oh Gawd.....I just throw the radio away! There is no coming back from a broken tuner string AND the guy at the factory that puts the sting on is the most skilled laborer of them all.

F that!
 

blu_fuz

Well-Known Member
Staff member
I can't believe we don't have more votes on this. It's a cool topic come on guys!
 

womble71

Member (SA)
The one thing that makes me the most nervous is trying to get a dead cassette deck working. Nothing quite like having absolutely no idea whats wrong with a deck and staring blankly at a rats nest of wires!!! Truly frightening! :scream: :nugget: :nugget:
 

Northerner

Boomus Fidelis
Lasonic TRC-920 said:
Oh Gawd.....I just throw the radio away! There is no coming back from a broken tuner string AND the guy at the factory that puts the sting on is the most skilled laborer of them all.

F that!
Oh yeh, forgotten about that particular hell! Done two restringing jobs...never again!!!
 

Beosystem10

Member (SA)
Northerner said:
Oh yeh, forgotten about that particular hell! Done two restringing jobs...never again!!!
TBH, I find putting a Duvet into its sleeve far more complicated than making and stringing up a set with a new dial cord. :blush:

Stringing diagrams are available at the UK vintage wireless forum, probably Golborne as well, and at least it's not necessary to clamber inside a radio to do the job whereas the bagging up of the continental quilt is a job that has tried to suffocate me on many occasions over the years.
A tip I can offer for those who are scared of the dial cord is that - assuming you start with the spring at the first anchor point correctly located and follow the correct order - it's important to make certain that the cord between the pulleys doesn't overlap at any point on its run, so for example, if it comes from the bottom of the first anchor position to the top of the idler that comes after that, then it'll bind so it needs to go bottom to bottom, then upwards from top to top and so on. As long as the number of turns is a match for the diagram then the tuning gang should be fully open at one end and fully meshed at the other, the cursor can be attached in the correct place by making a small datum mark on the dial pan under the scale before you remove the old cord. It doesn't matter if the original is broken as the cursor will still be attached to one side of the break so can be marked at either end of the scale.
Another tip: Never select a large Grundig Satellit as your first ever dial cord job, they use a dog clutch to send the motion of the tuning knob to either the FM or the AM tuning gang and that clutch has to be relined while you're in there. That isn't the problem, removing the old cork and replacing with fresh means taking out the driven plate and that's held in by a tiny but very springy circlip that's made of some bizarre sort of metal which doesn't show on metal detecting hardware so will need to be ordered at enormous expense from a Grundig Satellit specialist in New York (the one in the USA, not the one by North Shields which is only 50 miles down the road from here :bang: ) and will arrive accompanied by a sarcastic "so which d**k let it escape then?" sort of message on the shipping receipt. :blush:
Doing one of those just serves to demonstrate how easy any boombox dial cord job is. Apart from the one in the B&O, which uses a cord for its volume control (slider action converted to rotary action that way, oh come on B&O, you set of bodge artists... :lol: ) but a toothed nylon belt to achieve the same with its tuning control.
Sharps, JVCs, even that horribly congested Technics with its sub-miniature enclosed tuning gang; all a total piece of pish to do.
Last tip the now: When servicing a radio or fitting a fresh dial cord, always lubricate the cord where it wraps around its various pulleys with a very small amount of either cornflour or graphite powder in the valley of each pulley, this will reduce massively the risk of any future snarl-ups or bird's nests.
If you need any practice, Si, I'm currently working on a 1930s Bush table radio which has motorised tuning that's all controlled by beautifully over-engineered Mercury switches and motors that look like they belong in synchronous clocks. Trouble is that the dial cord in that one - broken, naturally! - was originally fitted by Leprechauns with eight quadruple-jointed digits on each paw and I have potatoes for fingers so am finding it ever so slightly frustrating. Fancy taking that on? Wait, come back, I'm paying..... :w00t:
 

oldskool69

Moderator
Staff member
Superduper said:
Ok. But what did he say? :lol:
Lemme help you out... :lol:


Beosystem10 said:
A tip I can offer for those who are scared of the dial cord is that - assuming you start with the spring at the first anchor point correctly located and follow the correct order - it's important to make certain that the cord between the pulleys doesn't overlap at any point on its run, so for example, if it comes from the bottom of the first anchor position to the top of the idler that comes after that, then it'll bind so it needs to go bottom to bottom, then upwards from top to top and so on. As long as the number of turns is a match for the diagram then the tuning gang should be fully open at one end and fully meshed at the other, the cursor can be attached in the correct place by making a small datum mark on the dial pan under the scale before you remove the old cord. It doesn't matter if the original is broken as the cursor will still be attached to one side of the break so can be marked at either end of the scale.

Last tip the now: When servicing a radio or fitting a fresh dial cord, always lubricate the cord where it wraps around its various pulleys with a very small amount of either cornflour or graphite powder in the valley of each pulley, this will reduce massively the risk of any future snarl-ups or bird's nests.
There...that clears it up. :lol: :smooch:
 

Beosystem10

Member (SA)
Northerner said:
Well all I know is that I age about 10 years every time I attempt a restring :lol:
That reads like you found the secret of time travel and have mistaken it for post-restring fatigue syndrome.

This being a boombox forum, I won't post a poll here asking "which is worse; duvet bagging or restringing a radio?" Sausagenet and boards.ie both have sections dedicated to this very issue however.

And in the spirit of this thread, there is a task I enjoy far less than restringing and that's repairing telescopic aerials. If I want to make one straight one from a pair (or three, four, etc.) of bent ones, nine times on ten the punch slips when I go to loosen the bottom section from its knuckle at the point where it's peened then, even if that didn't happen, as soon as I separate the sections at least one of the copper collets that prevent pulling the aerial apart from the top upwards vanishes and they always end up in the trap under the sink, even if you do your aerial building in another room. This is why I buy so many new aerials. :blush:
 

Lasonic TRC-920

Moderator
Beosystem10 said:
That reads like you found the secret of time travel and have mistaken it for post-restring fatigue syndrome.

This being a boombox forum, I won't post a poll here asking "which is worse; duvet bagging or restringing a radio?" Sausagenet and boards.ie both have sections dedicated to this very issue however.

And in the spirit of this thread, there is a task I enjoy far less than restringing and that's repairing telescopic aerials. If I want to make one straight one from a pair (or three, four, etc.) of bent ones, nine times on ten the punch slips when I go to loosen the bottom section from its knuckle at the point where it's peened then, even if that didn't happen, as soon as I separate the sections at least one of the copper collets that prevent pulling the aerial apart from the top upwards vanishes and they always end up in the trap under the sink, even if you do your aerial building in another room. This is why I buy so many new aerials. :blush:
I can say I have never done that kind of antenna repair. Aside from trying to bend it back into shape and then accidentally kinking it :bang: that is as deep as I have gotten.
 
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