Newly obtained Sanyo m-x960k!!!

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Jboulukos

Member (SA)
So I just picked this Boombox up for the equivalent of $19 USD. The Sound is awesome compared to my Sanyo M-x650k. Besides some scuffs/scratches/worn areas, here is a list of the problems/needs:

  1. Needs 2 new antennas
  2. Eject arm broken from inside
  3. Cassette buttons do not function
  4. Capstan turns/motor runs while unit is on regardless of whether “tape” “radio” or “line in” are selected.
  5. One knob (bass/treble/balance) has a crack in it that makes it loose. How should I fix it? Glue and hold it tight with a rubber band until the glue dries?
  6. The subwoofer grille is intact but very dirty
  7. The main speaker grilles are dirty or rusty? Might need painting
  8. Only 3 screws out of 9 (I think) that keep the back panel are functioning
  9. The “line in/phono” switch works however the plastic switch has broken off
  10. Battery cover is missing
So far I’ve vacuumed out some spider webs and dust and sprayed the pots for all the knobs as well as the record bar. I’ve tested the phono and line-in, and both work. Radio works fine but needs antennas for best tuning. As stated, the cassette motor runs when the unit is powered on regardless of the function setting, resulting in a spinning capstan. The main flat belt is intact, although I haven’t taken anything apart to examine more yet. Any advice on the repairs/restoration, especially with the cassette deck, will be much appreciated.
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Jboulukos

Member (SA)
I fixed the eject button, painted the speaker grills, fixed some plastic tabs, changed the cassette belts, and now FF, RW work. However I am unable to get play to function correctly.
 
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BoomboxLover48

BoomboxLover48

Boomus Fidelis
It contains several micro switches for tape transport function. The metal spring leaf glued to plastic lever on the micro switches breaks off making it non functional. This was the case with mine not working for play mode. Let me look a thread I put here for the repair.

Those speaker rings can be fixed with adhesive back up films (decals). I worked with our member Eric (caution) to make those and this should be available at https://www.analogalley.com/.

boomboxery.com

Magic touch to Lasonic TRC975

Eric the magician (caution) came to my help for making Lasonic TRC975 decals. These are the decals around the real tweeters on the top corner, and those fake ones right below it. I simply take measurements when Eric was perfecting, and it is almost done now. This is our 3rd project! 1...
boomboxery.com boomboxery.com
I was unable to find the thread on repairing my Big Ben deck micro switch.
Member Bill (badboybill) helped me get that micro switch. He drove all the way from his house to meet me and handover the switch for free! Awesome guy!



It is easy to break the main PC board, so be very careful while cleaning it.

Last picture shows the new micro switch attached. I hope this helps!

~Royce
 

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Jboulukos

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BoomboxLover48 said:
It contains several micro switches for tape transport function. The metal spring leaf glued to plastic lever on the micro switches breaks off making it non functional. This was the case with mine not working for play mode. Let me look a thread I put here for the repair.

Those speaker rings can be fixed with adhesive back up films (decals). I worked with our member Eric (caution) to make those and this should be available at https://www.analogalley.com/.

boomboxery.com

Magic touch to Lasonic TRC975

Eric the magician (caution) came to my help for making Lasonic TRC975 decals. These are the decals around the real tweeters on the top corner, and those fake ones right below it. I simply take measurements when Eric was perfecting, and it is almost done now. This is our 3rd project! 1...
boomboxery.com boomboxery.com
I was unable to find the thread on repairing my Big Ben deck micro switch.
Member Bill (badboybill) helped me get that micro switch. He drove all the way from his house to meet me and handover the switch for free! Awesome guy!



It is easy to break the main PC board, so be very careful while cleaning it.

Last picture shows the new micro switch attached. I hope this helps!

~Royce
Click to expand...
Great information! I took some close up pics to compare against yours. I didn’t see a black plastic tab like yours. I do see a white plastic piece. No sure if it’s the same or if I have a portion missing.
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Following the belt change, I was able to get the motor to continuously stop spinning and FF/REW worked. Now the motor is back to continuously spinning. Am I overlooking something. Previously following belt changes, I spun the flywheel counterclockwise, and a gear engaged to make the motor turn off and made play function correctly. Let me know if you see anything in the photos.
 
BoomboxLover48

BoomboxLover48

Boomus Fidelis
Something is not right!
This is the problem for not activating the play mode.
It moves in a way to connect and and disconnect in one directional movement.
It is a special kind of micro switch.
This white switch is not the OEM part. That could be the reason for the malfunction.
OEM part is black switch with a black plastic extending arm glued to a metal spring that activates the switches to turn off and on.

I would remove it and clean the contacts and see if that helps.

It could be dirty contacts too!

~Royce
 
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Jboulukos

Member (SA)
Update:
I pushed the tab in the photo and it engaged the head. Play works now! Now speed adjustment. I have a cassette to calibrate the speed. Something I noticed on my deck is the white and blue cables are cut and not attached to the motor. I wonder if my motor has been replaced because only 2 wires are soldered to it instead of 4. Does anyone know where the speed adjustment/pot is on this machine? See photos.
DBCF8502-9D6D-47A0-B8C1-7FFE5045333C.jpeg
above, I pushed this tab with a wooden stir stick for coffee and that fixed play functioning bring the head up to the cassette and spinning the reels.
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above: light blue and white wires cut.
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above: aftermarket motor?
 
J

Jboulukos

Member (SA)
Update:
The head was not straight so I adjusted the metal arms so it lined up straight to the cassette. Play, pause, FF, REW, and Stop all function. But I don’t get sound at all. Speaker are hooked up. Radio amd phono/line-in both function with great sound. Cassette functions but no sound. Any ideas?
 
J

Jboulukos

Member (SA)
caution said:
Yes, and it lacks speed control, which is why those wires are dangling. Look at what it says on the circuit board at the other end of those disconnected wires.
Click to expand...
Thank you for confirming. I’m getting sound now but it’s very minimal with turning up the volume. I can also say the playback speed is slow. So with these aftermarket motors…I had one on the last Sanyo I repaired…and it also didn’t have a way to control the speed. It’s not from the hole in the back side of the motor is it?
also, what can I do about the head? I cleaned it and bent the mounting tabs so it it’s straight now. It was probably bent inward about 20 degrees. Any ideas?
 
J

Jboulukos

Member (SA)
caution said:
yep speed adjustment is through that hole.

thank you. How though? Is there a Phillips or standard screw to turn? Or is the adjustment made with a different mechanism. I ask because it is inside the motor and cannot be seen. Is there a standard way to do it with the aftermarket motors?

You said you straightened the tab, what are you asking about now?
Click to expand...
Yes, tabs were straightened. Now I am asking how I can improve the sound quality. The sound produced requires the volume knob to be turned up to 100% in order to hear music output only slightly. Maybe the head azimuth needs to be adjusted? I’m not certain but I know it needs something for sound output to improve.
 
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J

Jboulukos

Member (SA)
Here is a photo of the head. Maybe it’s so worn that the sound output suffers. This is after I cleaned it. Does it look pretty worn out? If it needs a new head, is that something I can do? I have experience soldering wires. Any advice is much appreciated. 9BB6492E-F7A5-4E89-A3B8-249D4432FE6E.jpeg
 
BoomboxLover48

BoomboxLover48

Boomus Fidelis
That looks pretty worn out!
When you look from the side of the head at a glancing angle, you will see concave depression/s showing the wear pattern.
If you see that kind of depression it is worn out.

The existing wires on the deck is color coded, take pics and connect like that on the new head. You might have to align the head turning the screw back and forth on the spring loaded side of my deck mounting screw. Don't use magnetized screw drivers when you are aligning it. It is advisable to demagnetize the head also.
Contact time with the soldering iron must ne just enough to connect the lead wires, prevent overheating of the leads.
 
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