GF 9494 - bid “mooooo” sound when using tape
- Thread starter Kidinthedark
- Start date
I don’t know where to find replacements for those cables connected to the heads (the grey with smaller white and red cables inside and the yellow one), sadly they’d been cut.
I don’t even know if I’d be able to replace them
For now, i’ve spent a couple of hours trying my best to reconnect them one by one using solder
Can’t find a proper audio tape to test the unit, so i’d better put that appart for the moment
Thanks @dubout for the tip, that’s exactly how i was about to try to fix the switch
I don’t even know if I’d be able to replace them
For now, i’ve spent a couple of hours trying my best to reconnect them one by one using solder
Can’t find a proper audio tape to test the unit, so i’d better put that appart for the moment
Thanks @dubout for the tip, that’s exactly how i was about to try to fix the switch
BoomboxLover48
Boomus Fidelis
That is what I did @BoomboxLover48
I need now a proper cassette to test my GF
Anyhow, i’m considering changing the wires.
Would 3 cables be ok to replace the blue one with integrated white, red and black ones ? Same for the black stripped yellow one ?
I need now a proper cassette to test my GF
Anyhow, i’m considering changing the wires.
Would 3 cables be ok to replace the blue one with integrated white, red and black ones ? Same for the black stripped yellow one ?
BoomboxLover48
Boomus Fidelis
Use special audio wires like what it had before. Those two sets of audio wires leading to the head is shielded with a ground wire. If you just use 3 separate wires it will affect the audio quality. Basically, shielding protects signal from electromagnetic interference (EMI) and radio frequency interference (RFI). So, it is very important to use shielded wires for audio signals. These gray and blue wires carry the audio from the tape head to the preamplifier input.
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Wow thank you, @BoomboxLover48, I wasn’t aware oh this
Seems i need to find new wires, but where ?
Plus : both of the cable sets are goes into the white plastic multicable socket wich is plugged on the main board. Would i be able to plug out those cables from it ?
Seems i need to find new wires, but where ?
Plus : both of the cable sets are goes into the white plastic multicable socket wich is plugged on the main board. Would i be able to plug out those cables from it ?
BoomboxLover48
Boomus Fidelis
Once you find the wires you can pull the existing wire lead pins that goes in the plug sockets and then solder it like how it was done. The video shows how he replaced one set of wire and how he pulled the pins from the sockets of the plug with a pointed tool.
Be patient not to damage that 6-pin wire connector.
Watch Video 1 from 18th min....
Watch it a couple of times and learn well.
Be patient not to damage that 6-pin wire connector.
Watch Video 1 from 18th min....
Watch it a couple of times and learn well.
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hello all,
Does anyone have the references to the cables soldered on the decktape heads - the gray one and the blue one on the main head, the black lined yellow one on the erase head ?
I can’t seem to find them in my service manual version, which is in german to make it easier
Thanks to all in advance, I appreciate
Does anyone have the references to the cables soldered on the decktape heads - the gray one and the blue one on the main head, the black lined yellow one on the erase head ?
I can’t seem to find them in my service manual version, which is in german to make it easier
Thanks to all in advance, I appreciate
BoomboxLover48
Boomus Fidelis
Happy to share the little I know! I hope these types would work. I'm not sure!
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Oh many thanks @BoomboxLover48
I might give them a try
I’m considering paying a visit to the electronic parts shop which helped me save another Sharp boombox 15 years ago
But before, I need to unsolder those cables so i can show them to the shop owner
We’re not finished
I might give them a try
I’m considering paying a visit to the electronic parts shop which helped me save another Sharp boombox 15 years ago
But before, I need to unsolder those cables so i can show them to the shop owner
We’re not finished
Without the shielded cable, the interference will be extremely loud that all you will hear is a loud hum. It's not a small thing and not something you can ignore. That shield conductor is almost always soldered onto the head itself but I've seen shielded cables with the ground only connected on one end. Regardless, shielded cables are not hard to find, just google and you will find what you need. Some have multiple conductors. The biggest obstacle I've found is that generic aftermarket shielded cables are often very thick and meant for stable mounting positions. They don't flex easily and the heads on most boomboxes raise and lowers on use so some amount of flex will be required. Still, since you can't really go to sharp and ask for a length of shielded head cable, you'll just have to make do with whatever is out there. If silicone cables are available, you may want to go that route... they are the most flexible type.
You can try something like this:
Soft Silicone Rubber Shielded Copper Wire 2 3 4 6 Core Insulated Flexible Cables | eBay
Type: Insulated. Conductor Material: copper. Conductor: Tinned Copper. Insulation Material: Rubber. Conductor Type: Stranded.
www.ebay.com
Thanks for that @Superduper
Ok, i’ll certainly go for this kind of silicone cables
Nevertheless, these are for the gray and the blue ones, but i think the yellow one (erase head) is different (single cored if îm right ?)
What do you think ?
Ok, i’ll certainly go for this kind of silicone cables
Nevertheless, these are for the gray and the blue ones, but i think the yellow one (erase head) is different (single cored if îm right ?)
What do you think ?
Vous voulez dire : à l’aide de la vis de réglage qui maintient la tête @supercity ?
Je la règlerai lorsque j’aurai changé mes deux câbles sectionnés - dans l’état, elle ne peut plus transmettre de signal
Je la règlerai lorsque j’aurai changé mes deux câbles sectionnés - dans l’état, elle ne peut plus transmettre de signal