Fixing a legend.....

[Lasonic TRC-920]

ML, yeah buddy you can add it to the registry of date stamps. It was a '2nd' shift built box.

Norm, for sure about the dried up caps. I was searching for anything obvious that could be the culpret. I'm going to take inventory on the caps so I can get new ones ordered.

I was suprised at how easy it is to get to the main board, quick connectors, and plenty of room inside the 5350. I'm excited to get working on it .

Thanks Kenpat, I hope I can get it singing again.

Ps, there were 4 pins on the function switch that had only a partial blob of solder. 1 of the pins I was able to see it was wiggling free of the solder. Not sure why, maybe someone was in this box before...... who knows.

Can you post where you are ordering the caps from?

 

[blu_fuz]

Probably was going to try and order Panasonic brand caps off ebay. I havnt really looked into it much but Norm gave me some ideas.

 

[Lasonic TRC-920]

OK, Cool

 

[skippy1969]

SWEET!!!! Good luck Joe,you can do it!

 

[char]

Nice, a date stamp!

* 8 (1-12) month
* 2 (0-9; 1980-1989) year
* 2 (0-3) first day digit
* 4 (0-9) second day digit
* ? (1-3) work shift

So this part was molded on August 24, 1982.

Do you mind if I add it to http://www.pinterest.com/boomboxcreators/date-stamps/?

Good luck with resto!

Go!

=ml=

YOU must to add manufactures plants on asia region site page for boomers according to dis

 

[blu_fuz]

Had some time during the new babies nap to get a cap inventory. I marked a reference point on each cap on the same side. This will be important during the removal/install of the new caps.

 

[Superduper]

Low voltage (6.3) caps were chosen by manufacturers for cost efficiency reasons, but in my opinion, those are too low for any kind of reasonable margin given the low cost of caps today, especially the low value ones. I generally go 25v (and even 50 or 100v) on the small ones. My point being if you have 4 different voltage caps with the same uF rating, (i.e. 1uf) then just order the same higher voltage rating caps all around for the entire lot and don't worry too much about matching voltage. Higher gives you better margin and longer service life, especially in cases where operating voltage isn't far below the caps volt rating.

 

[Superduper]

As an example, I see 33uF caps on your list in 10, 16, and 25v. Just get the 25v ones for all applications and be done with it.

 

[blu_fuz]

^ dude great tip, that will save me hassle of finding exact matches when it isn't really needed. Thank you Norm

 

[BoomboxLover48]

As an example, I see 33uF caps on your list in 10, 16, and 25v. Just get the 25v ones for all applications and be done with it.

As an example, I see 33uF caps on your list in 10, 16, and 25v. Just get the 25v ones for all applications and be done with it.

Provided the size fits! I knew this and ordered caps at reasonably higher voltages but they were pretty large in size though! If only you want them to sit on their butts if not they will have to stand up on insulated feet. No big deal!

 

[blu_fuz]

Just about every original cap in my 5350 is standing off the board. I assumed the new ones will stand the same and if they do, do I really need to worry about having 'insulated feet'?

Obviously if the new caps fit the board better and can be slid down to be 'butt tight' to the board I will put them all the way down.

 

[oldskool69]

Looking good on the progress Blu! And let it be said that speed is not the right thing when restoring anything and you are going about it the right way!

And good to hear from Supadupe!!! Glad to hear from ya' Norm!

 

[blu_fuz]

Just got finished ordering the Nichicon Muse premium line (audio grade) caps. Total for it all with shipping was just under $40.



The distinct squiggly line drawn on my cap inventory count sheet was showing the numbers to the left of the squiggly line for the main board only. Then everything to the right or outside the squiggly line was the inventory for the tuner board and couple of other misc. spots with caps.

 

[Superduper]

It's true that higher voltage caps are generally larger than their lower voltage counterparts. However as manufacturing improvements and changes have resulted in modern caps being smaller overall compared to vintage caps, it's usually not an issue and could actually be a better fit than if ordering same voltage caps as original. Large caps (2200, 3300, 6800, etc.) should not stand off from the board unless the gap is filled (hot glue?) but small caps standing on legs is a non-issue.

 

[baddboybill]

Like the guys said Joe take your time and double check polarity. This beast is gonna pound after it's all done


Bad Boy Bill

 

[=ml=]

YOU must to add manufactures plants on asia region site page for boomers according to dis

I like what Axel is doing at TVK. How do I become a member?

NM. TVK administrator[SIZE=15.555556297302246px].[/SIZE]

Go!

=ml=

 

[=ml=]

ML, yeah buddy you can add it to the registry of date stamps. It was a '2nd' shift built box.

Norm, for sure about the dried up caps. I was searching for anything obvious that could be the culpret. I'm going to take inventory on the caps so I can get new ones ordered.

I was suprised at how easy it is to get to the main board, quick connectors, and plenty of room inside the 5350. I'm excited to get working on it .

Thanks Kenpat, I hope I can get it singing again.

Ps, there were 4 pins on the function switch that had only a partial blob of solder. 1 of the pins I was able to see it was wiggling free of the solder. Not sure why, maybe someone was in this box before...... who knows.

Thanks Joe! Added: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/298082069058421810/

Go!

=ml=

 

[=ml=]

Low voltage (6.3) caps were chosen by manufacturers for cost efficiency reasons, but in my opinion, those are too low for any kind of reasonable margin given the low cost of caps today, especially the low value ones. I generally go 25v (and even 50 or 100v) on the small ones. My point being if you have 4 different voltage caps with the same uF rating, (i.e. 1uf) then just order the same higher voltage rating caps all around for the entire lot and don't worry too much about matching voltage. Higher gives you better margin and longer service life, especially in cases where operating voltage isn't far below the caps volt rating.

I can understand why the constant charge/discharge cycle of a capacitor would necessitate eventual replacement. Aside from speakers, are there other components that if replaced, would increase a box's audio performance?

Go!

=ml=

 

[=ml=]

I agree there is lots of room to work on and easy to remove the boards but replacing any of those pots is so hard to work on.
Tuning chord is on the front plate where the pots mounted. Without removing the tuning chord it seemed practically impossible to work on them.

Good Luck Joe!

Hey Royce,

I see another date stamp on your 5350. Do you have a close up of it?

Go!

=ml=

 

[Beosystem10]

I can understand why the constant charge/discharge cycle of a capacitor would necessitate eventual replacement. Aside from speakers, are there other components that if replaced, would increase a box's audio performance?

Go!

=ml=

Yes. Resistors often drift wide of their intended values and when this happens the level of background hash becomes much more intrusive. New ones are so cheap that it's not worth using anything above 10% tolerance in the A/F boards such as the push-pull, all Germanium ones I see on a regular basis in the Hackers and other high end domestic portable audio kit I deal with.
Applying the same logic to plastic boxes from the far east can work wonders; most recently I found that changing these in the French M70 currently on the bench back at home made a noticeable difference to that set's level of background noise and now, on an uncompressed FM stereo signal from BBC R3 or similar, all of the highs are intact but when the music goes into a quiet part of the piece, then there's no unwanted hiss in spite of the M70's incredibly revealing upper treble response.
Those resistors are playing a major part in making the set's performance not just live up to the hype that surrounds the model but exceed any expectations I had when I started the rebuild. I replace electrolytic caps (and any waxies or Hunts Mouldseals - obviously none of these in the JVC) as a matter of course but these days I find I'm replacing more resistors too. It's a cheap way to buy peace of mind when the box I'm working on has been sent from a long distance away and I wouldn't be able to simply go round and do any post-resto debugging after she's been sent back.