Collective Custom Boombox Project?
- Thread starter Superduper
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mellymelsr
Member (SA)
Reli
Boomus Fidelis
Now that's cool. If there's a common model we could harvest for its cosmetic trim, we could achieve a classic look. There are some boomboxes, receivers and tape decks that only fetch $20 on Ebay, yet they have some cool looking trim, like speaker grills, meters, and knobs and switches.hardmen said:Some design of a Brazilian BBoys.
Using some receiver and tape deck aluminum panels.
IMG-20160402-WA0020.jpg
Serious? Because THAT is what we need! Can you also do acrylic? Cut and then have the lettering laser engraved on the backside so they would be protected?caution said:
caution
Member (SA)
The place that cut my replacement trims stock only metals. But on the acrylic side, when I stopped in at Metal Supermarkets recently I noticed the business card board filled with laser engraving places. There's enough of these places around it might help to find one with a good price. Some of them market themselves as artists, which translates to "expensive"
Actually, I wonder why that laser cutting place can't also laser engrave as well on the same piece they cut, at the same time? From what I can tell, the only difference between laser cutting and laser engraving is the amount of power applied by the laser, or the speed of which the laser is operated at. Slow speed = deep cuts. Fast = shallow cuts or engraving. Or maybe their machines are too powerful and can't be turned down far enough to engrave. Looks like they only employ 2500 watt and 4000 watt lasers. Typical acrylic engraving or cutting machines can make do with 60 - 90w lasers.
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Lasonic TRC-920
Moderator
Finally got a chance to sit and catch up on this thread....
Norm as always man, so much info I am trying to find on my own. Amp selection, controller selection.
I have been looking at that digital display/control and you just answered a ton of questions for me.
I am following this thread closely even if I am short on time to comment!
:gathering:
Norm as always man, so much info I am trying to find on my own. Amp selection, controller selection.
I have been looking at that digital display/control and you just answered a ton of questions for me.
I am following this thread closely even if I am short on time to comment!
:gathering:
caution
Member (SA)
Wouldn't hurt to ask I suppose. Not sure they work with stock they don't sell though. Do you have an example of what you want in the end?Superduper said:
That gives me an idea, I wonder if that could replicate fine-line silkscreening, just do a shallow engrave of all the lettering and fill it in with a grease pen like I used to do years ago when I made control panels for test equipment, except it wasn't a laser
Eric,
We aren't ready for the shell or cosmetics yet, as we aren't decided what modules to implement, the selection of which will dictate where and what controls are present, control spacing, cutouts, number and spacing of switches, etc etc.
As for engraving, typically, you wouldn't need to fill in any engraving unless it was bare metal. If the metal is coated with paint or a contrasting anodizing color coat, the engraving would just etch past the coating and the native material would show through, making a permanent lettering that should wear well. Unless it's acrylic, in which case the engraving would show up white and could be left like that. If clear, the acrylic could either be painted on backside to set off the engraving or side lit rendering the engraved areas to "light" up. I've read where laser engravers are able to etch at the equivalent of about 4000dpi. Considering laser printers produce awesome output at only 600dpi, that should mean the graphics should be spectacular.
We aren't ready for the shell or cosmetics yet, as we aren't decided what modules to implement, the selection of which will dictate where and what controls are present, control spacing, cutouts, number and spacing of switches, etc etc.
As for engraving, typically, you wouldn't need to fill in any engraving unless it was bare metal. If the metal is coated with paint or a contrasting anodizing color coat, the engraving would just etch past the coating and the native material would show through, making a permanent lettering that should wear well. Unless it's acrylic, in which case the engraving would show up white and could be left like that. If clear, the acrylic could either be painted on backside to set off the engraving or side lit rendering the engraved areas to "light" up. I've read where laser engravers are able to etch at the equivalent of about 4000dpi. Considering laser printers produce awesome output at only 600dpi, that should mean the graphics should be spectacular.
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