Cassette works intermittently

dwsiddall

New Member
Feb 15, 2023
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Sometimes when I put a cassette in and hit play, the red power indicator light lights up and the tape plays normally.

Sometimes, however, I put the same tape in and press play and nothing happens: no red power light, no movement.

There isn't anything I do that triggers it to start working again....I don't press any particular thing, turning it off and on again doesn't do it. Opening the tape door makes no difference. I'll just hit play and it suddenly works again. Sometimes it's a minute later. Sometimes it's hours later. It seems random.

Any idea why this would happen so randomly?
 
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dwsiddall

New Member
Feb 15, 2023
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USA
Since I'm not sure what I am really looking for, can any one help with a picture or a link to an image?

Thanks!
 

5250ls

Member (SA)
Feb 10, 2023
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Hello,
I don't know what is your tape player but usually switch in cassette deck look like this (picture 1 is in "standby" position, in picture 2 it is activated by hit play)16765839388373449035989647497994.jpg16765839821303490794637828664114.jpg
 
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5250ls

Member (SA)
Feb 10, 2023
66
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Sometime there is only one of these leaf switches, more often there is two or even more so you have to find the one activated by play. But if this one is dirty you can clean the others too. You can use a small tissue and isopropyl alcohol to carefully clean the contact, you can use also a good contact cleaner but be carefull to not spray it around because that can be not good for the mechanism (grease, oil and other things can be degraded with).
 
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Tinman

Member (SA)
Mar 4, 2019
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I usually remove these switches if I can't get at them and I like to use 600 grit sand paper to clean the contact pads.
 
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5250ls

Member (SA)
Feb 10, 2023
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In my case I have never used sand paper to clean contact because sometime they are coated thinly with another metal (silver..), if they are too corroded to clean with alcohol or contact cleaner I use a fiber glass pen (used in horology)
Even in case the switch is not coated, sand paper is way to aggressive in my opinion especially in 600 grit. But it is only my opinion.16766288420991201421190751964026.jpg
 
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Tinman

Member (SA)
Mar 4, 2019
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I'd agree if the switch is in good shape with very little carbon build up.
If the switch isn't working because of heavier carbon build up after 40 years of use/arcing, chaces are any coating on the actual contact points is long gone.
Most times, I find the contact points are also badly pitted (again, any coating is gone) so I like to create a new smooth surface.
After a few swipes with the sandpaper on each pad, I apply a very thin coating of a grease called no-ox-id A-special to protect the pads from future carbon build up.
I just dealt with the power switch intermittently working on my RX-5350 (pic below).
Someone glued rubber pads behind it so the contacts would push harder against each other.
It even looks like someone may have laid some solder on the bottom pad.
I'm assuming they were trying to fill in pitting.
I sanded and greased it and now it's working with 0 resistance (pic below).

OP, try cleaning your switches lightly the way 5250 suggested and if that doesn't work try my suggestion, it's more aggressive but has always worked for me.

PXL_20230213_181557575.jpg

PXL_20230217_165920834.jpg
 
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5250ls

Member (SA)
Feb 10, 2023
66
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Glass fiber pen always worked fine for me, and after that I use a bit of kf f2, a top notch industrial contact cleaner and lubricant but I don't know if it is available worldwide16766552513252034827145515447781.jpg
 
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5250ls

Member (SA)
Feb 10, 2023
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Yes cool. No need to laugh at me because I'm not agreeing with you. If you wanna ruin vintage audio with your shitty sand paper please do it. Not even house switch contact can be cleaned safely with that. Don't you understand that 600 sand paper will make the surface rough and therefore more able to collect dust, dirt and make carbon? 30 years of practice but you know more than me how to clean a contact. I haven't attack you, I'm full of humility and respect, just trying my best to help someone, but you don't like when a "newbie" is not thinking the same way than you, right? Who am I to dare... You think you are better? Yeah of course, you're the best...Maybe I'm new to this forum but I'm not a newbie in repair...just newbie in electronics parts...I was thinking entering a great forum where people are here to help each other...some are like these, thinking of AE Stereo for example who was a great help (some others too)...but you aren't. At least this time. I won't judge you, I don't know you. But please, at least, keep your teasing away from me, I'm here only to help the little I can and to learn from others, with respect, only trying to save more and more vintage electronics, all together.
I HATE the lack of respect...really.
Well, I just wanna say:
Please excuse me for not agreeing with you.
Love on sand paper.
Love on you, you are the god of switch.
 
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Tinman

Member (SA)
Mar 4, 2019
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I'm not really sure what your problem is, I wrote "cool" and put a thumbs up meaning in short: that's cool/great if the fiber glass brush and contact lubricant method works well for you.
I just didn't want to monopolize anymore of this thread since, I thought, we both gave our suggestions and were done.
Also, I'm not sure why you think I'm laughing at you, I clearly suggested to the OP that they should try your method first and if that didn't work to try my, admittedly, more aggressive method.
We're working on boomboxes, not the international space station, lives aren't at stake and every repair doesn't have to be perfect.
 

caution

Member (SA)
Mar 25, 2014
2,517
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Boomboxery
I've had good success removing copper stains with Tarn-X, but vinegar or acetone works too.
If it's really bad I'll gently polish it with a pencil eraser, baking soda or toothpaste. Clean off, and apply contact cleaner.
But that's just me, it's by no means the only way!