Need someone to fix my Dynasty HT-959 BBX soon.Video inside!

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Superduper

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Ok. Thanks for all the information.

Here is Block Diagram for Typical Boombox: Boomboxes will playback in Stereo so what you are seeing here is just one side of the equation. There will be another identical signal path for the second audio channel.


Tuner board/module is working good and normal, I am pretty confident of that given the information you've provided. However, I am always prepared to be suprised.

Moving on, If you look at the block diagram and identify the tuner block and line in jack, you'll see that those lead to the selector switch. The selector switch outputs to the preamp which then outputs to both the tonal controls and line-outs. The fact that the line-outs is not outputting in normal fashion suggests that the problem is between the input modules and line-outs. The only thing between is the Pre-amp and selector switch. Follow me so far? The thing is that there is two seperate signal paths and you are experiencing some issues with both sides. Either there is a problem with both sides or both circuits have some signal-path in common causing issues in one channel to affect both. Both scenarios are possible. The selector switch will be common to both left and right channels so that is an obvious suspect. Shorted or open capacitors can certainly also cause problems and is also one of the first places I would look.

While this explanation may certainly sound plausible, there exists a wrinkle. I say this because if the problem is fore of the amplifier (i.e. preamp), anything further down in the signal path would be affected. This makes sense since the main amps are downstream and you hear the results in the speakers. The wrinkle is that in mono or wide mode, the preamp or tonal circuits are supposed to "mix" the signals so that one good channel will be heard in both sides. I would expect the boombox to play equally in both channels when set to mono or wide mode if both main amps are good. Yours does not. Now, the diagram you see above is typical but certainly not standard by any means so differences in circuitry is certainly possible. However, you'll have to fix things 1 step at a time.

For you, the next thing I would do is as follows:
Also located between the line outputs and tuner/tape/line-in modules is the selector switch. You've already indicated that the sound is scratchy. I don't know if that means distorted or not. Distortion can be caused by component failure or component with changed values but scratchiness can be caused by dirty controls. If that is the case, the simplest exercise for you would be to clean the controls, and pay special attention to the selector switch. That switch is common to all the issues you are experiencing. If that turns out the be it, that would be the simplest way of restoring your box. If that is not it, then you'll need at the very least, a signal tracer to figure this out. I presume that service manuals (diagrams) are non-existent for this boombox. If that is the case, then the diagnostic becomes much more tedious and probably beyond the ability of most novices and nearly impossible without some essential diagnostic tools which wouldn't be worthwhile to acquire for a 1 time repair.

That is a lot of info here to just say clean the controls but I wanted you to have a visual aid to see how I'm coming to the conclusion. Don't know if any of this helps you but it's about the best I can do.

~Norm.
 

Superduper

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OK, looks like I replied at the same time you were adding your second reply. It's hard to say if the amp and power resistor blew before or after you reversed the polarity. The Blown capacitor certainly feed the amp directly being adjacent to it. In any event, that may explain (on my previous post) about why the amp isn't performing as I would expect when a problem in a preamp section is bad. Also, when you replace that capacitor, was there a second identical one close by? If so, you should have replaced them in pairs. Finally, I see a bare wire twist tied around a male terminal (near that blue capacitor). Looks like that wire originally had a female plug. You should replace that connector properly or solder that wire in place. You won't get reliable service that way and the sound can be affected.

Well, like I said, you'll need to repair in stages. Looks like it's been worked on before. You should replace that amp (make sure to use new heatsink compound) and that power resistor. There is probably a similar power resistor nearby for the other "good" amp. You can take your readings from that one. Find what pin of the amp that resistor goes to and look on the other amp for the resistor. Then fix the belts to make sure it's not related to the power on issue. With the chassis open, clean all the controls. Then retest. If fixed, great! If not but you now have the both channels restored (in mono) but not in stereo, then go back to the preamp or selector switch.

Normally, I would say that a blown amp shouldn't affect the preamp or line-out functions. However, depending upon how the power amp failed, it could be shorting the signal to ground in which case, the line-out wouldn't work either which fits the description. HOWEVER.... if that is the case, and keeping in mind that there are 2 seperate amps, and the other side is working but attentuated, either the two amps have some feedback circuitry between them thereby affecting both sides (the other to a lesser extent) or it's could be an entirely seperate issue.

Oh, by the way, that capacitor looks to be a polarized cap. Make sure the polarity was correct when it was installed. If the polarity is not correct, it won't work right -- might even blow again.

Have fun!
Norm.
 

Superduper

Member (SA)
Looking at that circuit board again, it would appear that the resistor is a power resistor and probably the only one. We know that the first band is black and the last band is gold. From that we know that it is a 5% power resistor, looks to be a 1/2watter. What's missing is the 2nd and 3rd band. The 3rd band is a multiplier. The only "value" band is the second band so it's going to be a simple value (such as 1, 10, 100) as opposed to a more complex value such as (2.2, 4.7, 68) etc. If I had to take a guess, I would say that it's probably a 1 ohm 1/2 watter or 10 ohm 1/2 watter but that's just a guess. I recommend you try to do some detective work to see if you can find some evidence of other color bands.

A tip: That resistor looks like it's mounted flat against the board. When replacing it, mount the new resistor a bit higher (stand off) from the board. It improves the component's heat dissipation and if it does fail, will keep the device from scorching the board. Resistors are cheap. Ruined boards are not. When standing off the resistor, a professional job would include sheathing the legs with some shrink fit tubing but I found that some insulation stripped off from slightly thicker wire will do the job fine and is cheaper than shrink tubing. This reduces the chance of inadvertently bending the resistor and shorting the legs against an adjacent conductor when working around the boombox.

BTW, that is an AWFULLY simple looking board for such a large box. I would've thought that there'd be more to it. My Supersope CRS-4000 is probably 1/2 the size of that box but when I recapped it, took 96 capacitors! The boards on the Sanyo M-X920 and M9998 looks downright scary and intimidating compared to this guy.
 

blu_fuz

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The boards are pretty simple looking and there is a ton of room in the BBX. I will mount the resistor off the board with wire protection like you said.

Alright. Very good info and lots to read. Basically you are telling me to change out the burned up parts first and clean the connections? Is there a good parts supplier for the amp that I should buy from? I think I can get the resistor from RadioShack after I figure out the color code.

You are helping a lot and I appreciate it greatly. Thanks.

p.s. Everytime I search for the amp piece it is everywhere but I can't seem to find anything with the last 3 numbers/letters that mine has, does that matter?

LA4508
9D8
 

Superduper

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blu_fuz said:
You are helping a lot and I appreciate it greatly. Thanks.

p.s. Everytime I search for the amp piece it is everywhere but I can't seem to find anything with the last 3 numbers/letters that mine has, does that matter?

LA4508
9D8

I doubt very much that you'll be able to get the suffix codes to match. Replace it with a new LA4508 and be done with it.
 

blu_fuz

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I looked everywhere in the boombox and there is not a single resistor that is the same size as the one that is blown. There are also no other resistors that match the two color bands that are visible. It looks like I really need your help on this part guys. You have given me good tips but I can't just guess what color code resistor to put in.
 

Superduper

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I don't have one so there is nothing I can do in that department to help you. Here is what I think it is. It's very likely a very low resistance power resistor whose sole purpose is to limit current and self destruct when too much current is drawn. I've seen these powering the cassette motors alot. In your photo, I see a couple of wires nearby with triangle captions. Mostly, wires ID'd in this manner are Cassette related so you should trace the resistor and see where it leads. If it goes to those wires and they lead to the motor, I'd bet anything (or at least a dollar) that it's a 1 ohm resistor. Again, if it goes to the motor, as long as the motor is not fried and shorted, you can safely install a low resistance resistor there and try it. If it doesn't go to the motor, then where does it go? Does it go to the power switch? You'll need to do some sherlock stuff here and do some tracing. Let us know what you find.

As a last resort, you can install a 1k variable resistor (temporarily via wires) and make sure it's in the max position (1k). Then slowly work it's way around until you find a sweet spot. Unfortuantely, you won't know what that sweet spot is unless you know what the resistor is for. Detective work again... BTW, the sweet spot should be a simple value like I said before. It's going to be a single value x a multiplier. For example 1, 10, 100, 1000 or 2,20,200,2000 etc. It won't be a complex value. If you get 112, the most likely value would be 100.

OK, well, let's get to it and figure this thing out!
 

blu_fuz

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I just purchased (3) LA4508 chips. I figured having a couple extra would be good :-D. I also contacted vienna sound for the resistor color code. He has been working on his wheely and has the same resistor in his, hopefully..... ;-)
 

blu_fuz

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I got my amp chips yesterday and am very excited to try these out. I still havn't got a color code for the resistor but probably in the next few days I will know.

I have never soldered in/out a electronic part that has more than 2 wires. How do I solder in/out this chip with over 10 pins on it? Is there an easy way to remove all the solder from all the pins?
 

Superduper

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Solder suckers can work to suck out large blobs quickly but in my experience, don't do a good enough job on small pads like for IC's. Solder wicks work great, especially for components you aren't going to reuse since it requires quite a bit of heat to get the heat to begin wicking but they will leave very clean pads, as long as you don't overheat and cause the pads to lift.

The best tool is a desoldering station which has a built in vacuum pump and hollow tips to allow you to heat/vacuum at the same time. However, they are prohibitively expensive and the prices will SHOCK you.

One other way to do this is to clip all the leads on the component you are removing. This allows you to remove each lead individually as you heat/pull.

When soldering in the new IC, stagger the soldering/heating process so that the IC does not overheat. Waiting for a few moments between pins helps too. If you overheat the IC, which is easy to do since the integrated components are small and easily damaged, you will have wasted the whole installation.
 

blu_fuz

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Good tips, thank you. I havn't gotten in there to do this yet because I am still waiting for someone to tell me the color code of the resistor. I want to take care of it all at the same time.......
 

ViennaSound

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blu_fuz said:
I just purchased (3) LA4508 chips. I figured having a couple extra would be good :-D. I also contacted vienna sound for the resistor color code. He has been working on his wheely and has the same resistor in his, hopefully..... ;-)
Sorry, the long waiting , fuz.
You got PM.
For other MasterBlaster-Owners if interesting,
Here it is:
7,2 ohm





 

blu_fuz

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YOU ARE THE BEST! Thank you very much.

You called it:
violet/red/gold/gold 7.2

but I see:
blue/gray/gold/gold 6.8

which should I use?

 

Superduper

Member (SA)
6.8 ohms: A standard value. 7.2? That's a rare bird indeed.

In all likelihood, the higher value is due to variances or tolerances in the meter, the leads, the connection used to measure, a resistor who's value has shifted over time due to age, etc.

Use the marked colors as a guide and not the tested value. I think you'll find that 7.2 ohm resistors don't exist.
 

blu_fuz

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Radioshack had nothing of the sort. He was trying to sell me the wrong ohm rating resistor. I found them on ebay and am waiting for them to show up. Then the boomer will get two new ICs and a new resistor installed by an electronics guy I know. I am hoping for some kind of result, not perfection, but something would be nice. Just trying to get one step closer to having it play something normally. I will update here.
 

blu_fuz

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Dynasty just left my home to get repaired. :'-( :thumbsup: - hopefully it will come back in full working order.
 
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