JVC M90 Tape deck brakes don't disengage, fwd/rwd/play all don't work

Radio raheem

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mine is still working...just get out the wd40 lol jk....im proud for someone who is blind and ain't got a clue to what im doing lol, because honestly i thought that was the end of my victor m90 :-) :thumbsup:
 

stragulus

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caution said:
Exactly. You can even see how it works in the pic. Those three shafts with all the plastic pieces is the eject safety. The lever on the upper-left shaft rests against the head plate. So when you press play, it turns clockwise a little bit, which makes the lever attached to it, on the upper-right shaft, to turn CCW. That swings its lower part to the right, getting in the way - but not completely - of a tab on the main slider, that you can see just to the right of the lower shaft. That way, if you press eject while playing, it allows the eject button to move the main slider up a tiny bit until it hits this lever.
Uh-huh. Yup. Nod. Following it.. oh wait, tab on the main slider? Wait what, where? D'oh, that's supposed to be a *slider*? AHA! See how it's a little bent in my picture? That thing was totally jammed up, at no point did I notice that was a slider! Bent it back in shape and tadaah, it works again!

Transistorized excellent explanation and your post solved the puzzle. Thanks to Transistorized, I could tell that my deck didn't follow the correct sequence, so something must indeed be stuck in the mechanical linkage. Thanks to you, I finally figured out how the eject mechanism is supposed to work.

Everyone's been really helpful, thanks guys! Wouldn't know what to do without you. Finally I can put 'r back together! :-D

Here she plays again: https://youtu.be/W16Y8OXVL3g
 

Radio raheem

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Superduper said:
I hope you cleaned off all the WD40 after you were done. It's like about the worse thing you can apply. Not immediately but over time, you'll see when it disintegrates everything including the paint if it works it's way outside.
what's the best way to clean off the the wd40 Norm???








thanks everyone and to the OP glad you're deck is sorted to, fantastic job guys :thumbsup:
 

Radio raheem

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well my issues the same as the original poster are now back in full effect for no reason..any help appreciated :bang:

i could give this to my engineer but to be honest i don't think he would be able to solve these issues
 

stragulus

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I think you can clean off the wd40 from the exterior with a cloth and soapy water, just make sure the cloth is damp and not soaking wet. Wipe it until it is no longer sticky when you run your fingers over it. I'd love to help you fix your deck if you were in the 'hood (NY), but the UK is a bit far!
 

Radio raheem

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thanks dude, not concerned about the wd40 at the moment haha, my deck is back to square one like you'rs was...so strange :bang:
 

stragulus

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Rimmer36 said:
thanks dude, not concerned about the wd40 at the moment haha, my deck is back to square one like you'rs was...so strange :bang:
If it's the same problem as mine had, you want to look at the eject slider. The picture here highlights the slider. Mine is a little bent here, it should be straight on the right hand side:

m90 tape deck eject slider.jpg

Caution described how this slider needs to be able to move left/right. Mine was stuck and didn't move at all, which caused it to stay in the 'eject' mode which will prevent it from playing. You can easily take the deck out of the boombox by removing 4 screws, disconnecting a few connectors, and lifting it out. Then you can access this side and see if that slider easily moves left/right. If you want to try this and need the location of the 4 screws let me know and I'll post a picture w/more details.
 

Radio raheem

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thank you Sir, will check this in the next few days, im having a break from her at the moment as it's fried my brain haha, atb Reno
 

Superduper

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Rimmer36 said:
what's the best way to clean off the the wd40 Norm???
Well, I would probably use zero residue electronics cleaner. WD40 is not a lubricant, it is a solvent and any lubrication properties will be short lived. Because it is a solvent, it is harsh and will dissolve belts, paint, and who knows what kind of damage over time to plastic & rubber, etc. If this was something more durable, I would clean it off with brake cleaner, but in this case, I’d use electronic cleaner or disassemble & clean thoroughly with soapy detergent & paint brush. In good sunny weather, the whole thing including circuit boards can be dried outside rather quickly.
 

Radio raheem

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Ok straglus, thanks to you're very helpful post this might be the issue, as that slider seems to be sticking but not bent, you can lube this slider at the back of the deck. iv lubed it and im waiting for it to dry (not wd40 haha....if this works i will flipping marry you haha, fingers crossed :thumbsup:


Superduper said:
what's the best way to clean off the the wd40 Norm???
Well, I would probably use zero residue electronics cleaner. WD40 is not a lubricant, it is a solvent and any lubrication properties will be short lived. Because it is a solvent, it is harsh and will dissolve belts, paint, and who knows what kind of damage over time to plastic & rubber, etc. If this was something more durable, I would clean it off with brake cleaner, but in this case, I’d use electronic cleaner or disassemble & clean thoroughly with soapy detergent & paint brush. In good sunny weather, the whole thing including circuit boards can be dried outside rather quickly.
thanks Norm you rock as ever...do you have a link to what i need my friend, i'll get some bought pronto
 

stragulus

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Rimmer36 said:
Ok straglus, thanks to you're very helpful post this might be the issue, as that slider seems to be sticking but not bent, you can lube this slider at the back of the deck. iv lubed it and im waiting for it to dry (not wd40 haha....if this works i will flipping marry you haha, fingers crossed :thumbsup:
Sorry, already married, and polyamory is frowned upon in the US. Well, it's NY, nobody here would bat an eyelash tbh, but let's not go there ;) Hope it works! What lube do you use?

My deck's only fault right now is recording. I'm 99% sure this is due tot the recording pots/switches being dirty, just like every other switch/pot on this box was extremely dirty. Ex-smoker's box.. fixed all the other ones by desoldering them and given them a good vinegar bath soak, which worked *really* well. Contact spray never ever has worked well for me for more than a few weeks/months at most (using DeOxit D5).

I bought my box for really cheap, but otoh it's been on my bench for almost 3 months now (on and off, amateur hobbyist). It's that I love to fix these boxes even more than I like just owning them, but if ever you wonder why boxes in good condition are so expensive, it's the insane amount of labor that goes into them. And I haven't even recapped it or fixed all the cosmetic issues! It boggles the mind.
 

Radio raheem

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na don't want to marry anyone to good being single and i bat for the girls haha least i did before old age haha...my victor was total scrap tbh it took me and my engineer 3 years bud and thats without a recap...but she has been working fine for the last year until now...machine oil sewing oil is good imho but you need to check with others first because there is probably much better...that bar that was sticking there was actually a head wire jammed against it, id never noticed that bar until you're post as im partially blind...but i will test her in about an hour and report back....the thing is we have put so much work into this one but at what point do you stop ehh...as you may have noticed mine was up for trade briefly but i just can't lol
 

stragulus

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Rimmer36 said:
na don't want to marry anyone to good being single and i bat for the girls haha least i did before old age haha...my victor was total scrap tbh it took me and my engineer 3 years bud and thats without a recap...but she has been working fine for the last year until now...machine oil sewing oil is good imho but you need to check with others first because there is probably much better...that bar that was sticking there was actually a head wire jammed against it, id never noticed that bar until you're post as im partially blind...but i will test her in about an hour and report back....the thing is we have put so much work into this one but at what point do you stop ehh...as you may have noticed mine was up for trade briefly but i just can't lol
I have a good feeling that fixed it. Glad to share the knowledge I gained here!

Meanwhile my switches/pots are soaking in a nice vinegar bath. Hopefully this will resolve my recording inputs.

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Radio raheem

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It's working but we will see for how long lol.....100% it's the bar though. so im not worried now, thanks everyone, you guys rock :thumbsup: :clap:
 

stragulus

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Rimmer36 said:
machine oil sewing oil is good imho but you need to check with others first because there is probably much better...
I think here you'd use a thicker grease, e.g. superlube. Fast moving metal-on-metal seems to require a light oil such as sewing machine oil. Then there's fast moving metal against plastic which usually requires a thinner (lithium) grease, such as capstan axle end rotating in its socket. At least that's what I picked up from working on reel-to-reel decks.
 

Radio raheem

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least i put us on the right track in the first place strangulus lol two happy campers, the victor is playing now :thumbsup: thanks to you're post, i wouldn't have noticed but you marked it in red which i could see :lol: