Boombox Repair/Restoration Kit

[bantytfv]

I use Momar brand, "On Board" contact and circuit board cleaner for the PCB's and the switches and potentiometers. Works well, and evaporates fast.

 

[The Box of Boom]

Let me go ahead and post Vladi's response to this thread:

"Single malt scotch - I won't open another boombox without it."



My current restoration needs more scotch ... I knew I was missing something

 

[Brutus442]

Wow, I'm glad I found this thread.

Two additions to this "repair/ rebuild" kit I'd suggest is small wire wraps (they can hold/ bundle wires away while working on other components) and are easily cut after completion.

The last suggestion is more for those of us who are somewhat colour blind. Simple "peel and stick" letters or numbers can be used to tag and document wire or harness locations. These are available at most electronic supply stores.

I hope this helps!

P.S I'd move the single malt to the top of the list!

 

[perkins7]

Hi ! my first post on this amazing site , i use isopropilic alcohol to clean PCB , and a local cleanner called " Silijet" its very safe with controls, switchs and residual free , its very close to results on WD-40 rust off !! (sorry , my natal lenguage its Spanish)

 

[trippy1313]

I was curious, what do you all use for speaker cleaning? If dusting doesn't prove strong enough to clean, is there anything you feel safe cleaning them with? Here's my what M70 speakers look like.

 

[superlew]

I was curious, what do you all use for speaker cleaning? If dusting doesn't prove strong enough to clean, is there anything you feel safe cleaning them with? Here's my what M70 speakers look like.

20130818_224947.jpg

I usually start with a stiff artist brush for the heavy stuff. It works great in the W-surrounds, too. Then, to get the cones as clean as possible, I'll sometimes go over them with a tack cloth. This method should work pretty well on M70 speakers, since they have a smooth paper cone. Often times, spills and splashes will leave the cones stained or discolored. In the case of the M70, I'd leave it. Once they're mounted behind the grills, most people won't even notice. A light spray is really just a last resort for cones that are super-visible and look really bad after they're installed.
Another thing I've done a few times is to treat the W-surrounds. Sometimes they will have small tears. I cover the tears from the back side with a tiny piece of toilet paper - yes, toilet paper. I work the T.P. into the surround with a tiny amount of speaker glue and an artist brush. I apply a very thin coat of the glue to the entire back side of the surround to reinforce it.
It can be tedious, but well worth the effort if the surrounds are less than perfect.
You can never have too many artist brushes. I pick them up at Michael's Craft Stores for $5.00 for 25 brushes. Tack cloths are $3.00 for 2 at Home Depot. They last a long time if you store them in a zip-lock bag.

 

[trippy1313]

Perfect, tack rags come easy, so do paint brushes.

 

[superlew]

Thought I'd share this.
This is how I stay organized. Even when I have multiple ongoing projects. These containers are really cheap. I start from the top, left to right, in order of disassembly. Makes re-assembly a breeze. Just work backwards. They're great when you have components with different fasteners that look similar. Now I never wonder, "Is it this screw or this one?" And I don't move on to the next step until the previous compartment is empty.
If every part and fastener in the container was removed from the unit, it needs to go back in.
There's no such thing as "extra parts," contrary to what my dad told me.

 

[Pelzwik]

Any ideas on why my panasonic RX 5100 would start to make a loud tone sound when I push the play button? It is a very clean unit but now no sound from tape player except this loud tone. Thanks!

 

[JT Techno]

Did anybody mention baby wipes - if not, I'd add a pack of these in to the list - they are great at getting all sorts of muck off all non-electrical parts of a boombox - I'm amazing they don't take the skin off a baby too but somehow they can take hardened paint off a boombox but leave a baby still smiling

 

[riker1068]

Great find. FD what do you use the Meguiars Plast-X polish for.

 

[Jedidiah]

What to use on to clean the PCB board?

I use denatured alcohol and tooth brushes on my vintage home audio gear (mid 70s) and trust me that stuff can be caked with flux sometimes.

 

[baddboybill]

Any ideas on why my panasonic RX 5100 would start to make a loud tone sound when I push the play button? It is a very clean unit but now no sound from tape player except this loud tone. Thanks!


Clean your record bar inside on PC board


Bad Boy Bill

 

[eli]

this is an excellent post and I have learned a great deal from it--thanks for starting it...

Just wanted to add two items to the kit---

Now that i am officially a Geezer--- light to see by when working on box internals is a big thing for me--
I keep one of those--elastic band, super bright, led headlamps in my kit--bought mine from a camping place.
An additional plus with it is both hands free to work--

I keep a few thick, Jazz player, guitar picks in there as well, to use when a casing needs to be leveraged open--less chance
of gouging the casing while prying areas open if they are stuck/tight---has to be jazz picks tho--standard picks are too thin.

 

[toshik]

sandpaper or fingernailfile for rusty, corroded battery spring and contacts

I never scrape the rusty spots - scraping them even with steel wool would leave them look scraped
Also it would remove the protective coating and rust would be right back...
Treat them with LPS-3 it would remove most surface rust plus seal and protect the area for good (it leaves a special protective coating layer).
I use the scope and audio generator as well.

 

[Superduper]

I never scrape the rusty spots - scraping them even with steel wool would leave them look scraped
Also it would remove the protective coating and rust would be right back...
Treat them with LPS-3 it would remove most surface rust plus seal and protect the area for good (it leaves a special protective coating layer).

Obviously, that depends entirely on the severity of the rust. I have seen rusted battery terminals where connectivity was difficult to restore even after removing the metal plate and working it with a bench grinder fitted with brushes. The rust and battery acid combined to chemically convert the surface to a non conductive material. As LPS-3 is a rust inhibitor, that alone would not have been effective as the "protective" nickel would've been long gone, and the task would be akin to closing the gates after the horses have already left the barn.

 

[toshik]

As LPS-3 is a rust inhibitor, that alone would not have been effective as the "protective" nickel would've been long gone, and the task would be akin to closing the gates after the horses have already left the barn.

Apparently you randomly used LPS-3 - all it does it removes the surface rust and leaves protective oily film guaranteed to protect the surface even outside!
It does not darken the metal surface like other "inhibitors" normally do thus requiring additional coating.

 

[Superduper]

You didn't read my post clearly or misunderstood what I said.

 

[Alberto]

A decent soldering station should also be in your "Boom Box Restoration Kit". You can pick up a decent soldering station for about $100.00. Here are three;

HAKKO FX-888D

WELLER WES 51

EDSYN LONER 951SX

I have the HAKKO FX-888D and I love it. It has a digital read out and 5 preset temperatures that you can custom adjust.

 

[MyOhMy]

Great thread! Here are some of the other things I've found useful that'll add to the list:


A selection of small lights including a telescopic light with a magnetic head (dropped screw pick-up!).

Nail brush for dry brushing dust/fluff from grills, casing grooves etc..

Rubber eraser or pencil with eraser, good for preventing spinning of rollers whilst cleaning them.

Telescopic mirror.

Small elliptical mirror, very good for awkward and difficult spaces.

Marker pens - I use for marking connectors so I know which one is which and which way round they sit!

Angled tweezers.

Fluffy, bendy pipe cleaners, used for removing fluff if wet and as temporary ties on cables to keep the together or out of the way.

Magnifiers - small hand held and desk top.

Magnetic screwdriver(s).

Home made small double-ended hook, particularly useful when refitting tuning strings.




I hope this is of use to those starting out - Like ME!