Big Ben deck playback too fast

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Superduper

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baddboybill said:
Have you checked voltage to deck? Maybe your getting to much
Voltage is definitely more than the motor likes because it says on the body that it's a 13.2v motor whereas this motor is tied directly to system rails. If on AC, I can see 18+ volts. Running a few large diodes in series can help drop the voltage down a bit to the motor and make for a longer lasting motor.

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Dave,

I would be happy to take a look at it for you, but there are the following issues:
  • I am in the USA so shipping back/forth from UK would cost a few bucks & shipping will add some time
  • As I would be testing it on the bench, I'm not sure it would e possible for me to determine the actual motor speed
  • Consequently, the scope of what I can do would be to confirm that all the components are within spec and confirm that theres nothing amiss in the circuitry.

However...
Before we go drastic here. May I suggest that you take a step back, maybe don't think about this for a few days or a week before taking another fresh look? I do that a lot when I need a break and next time, I see from a different perspective. I know that it's frustrating but there really isn't all that many components here and whatever is the problem probably is easily within your abilities to correct. For example, it looks like replacing the pot from 3k to 50k was a setback since the symptoms got worse. But..... But, you missed the silver lining. Whereas before, nothing you did made any appreciable difference in the motor speed, this swap here DID make a difference. What does this tell you? See if you look at the schematic, you'll see that the power circuit runs from (+) to motor, and then to ICp3 which must find ground through ICp2. Although Pitch(-) is also connected at motor(-), it is merely a resistor network (8-12k) and not connected directly to ground. IF there somehow was a short to ground through that network, then the motor would find an alternate ground and bypass the IC thereby rendering it non-effective in throttling the motor speed. However, you said that you've already tested the network and there is no continuity to ground. Additionally, you've tested the static resistance of motor (-) to ground and found 396 ohms. Were it shorted, then it could explain why the motor would run fast with no ability to vary the speed. However with 396 ohms and because the mere addition of 47 ohms to the circuit (when you replaced inductor with resistor) rendered the motor virtually unusable, it seems like the static unpowered resistance from ICp3 to ICp2 does change when powered up and therefore, probably working.

So, I think we can surmise that by changing the feedback to the IC, we were able to illicit a variation in the motor speed, even if in the opposite direction. Also, the more I look at the two circuits (yours & the sample circuit), the more I see that they are basically the same. What ?! you say.

Look at it this way. In the sample diagram, the control is basically pin 4 through a voltage divider network, set by the voltage between rail (+) and the voltage after the motor (with associated voltage drop). Varying the potentiometer wiper position from one end to the other varies the signal to pin 4 somewhere between those 2 voltages.

Now, let's move on to YOUR circuit, based on Eric's drawing. We see the exact same thing except that instead of the end of the internal pot going directly to pin 3, as in the sample circuit, it first goes to (+) pitch, through a resistor network (8k-12k variable), and then to (-) pitch, which, yep, goes to pin 3 of IC. So basically, it's the exact same thing except that it diverts a portion of the resistance network externally.

Somehow, the values in this complex resistance voltage divider network (ending at pin 4 of the control IC) is off, and therefore the reason why you are losing the ability to control the speed. In fact, the front mounted pitch pot is a critical part of the network and you would lose the ability to control the speed if it was disconnected. In the sample circuit, if the wiper is set at the midpoint of a 50k pot, then you should expect about 25k from either voltage sources to pin 4. A different pot can be used since again, it is merely a voltage divider and it is the "balance" between the resistance from both ends of the wiper from the voltage sources that is important except that varying the pot value could alter the current to pin 4 and it's unclear if pin 4 is monitoring voltage or current.

I recommend at this point for you to re-check and verify the resistances, they probably need to be spot on with little deviation. Now that I understand the purposes of those resistors as voltage dividers, then it's clear that the values are critical and even small deviations will have an effect.

===========

Now, not to complicate things, if this motor was in my hands right now, what I would do is the following:
  1. Disconnect the wires from pitch (-) and pitch (+)
  2. Tack a ~10k resistor across pitch(-) and pitch(+)
  3. Check/record voltage from ground to pin3
  4. Check/record voltage from ground to the union of the 3-resistors
  5. Check voltage at pin 4, and adjust wiper to see if it's possible to vary the voltage from a balanced range between those 2 voltages.

If the voltage readings at pin 4 consistently stays at or near one end of those 2 ranges, then that's probably why you aren't getting any adjustment out of your pot. Also, the voltage range between those 2 readings is probably very low so minute changes makes a difference. Lastly, I'm not sure if it's possible for you to take readings while running the motor since we need "live" readings (it doesn't have to be on deck for this test). If accessibility to the board is limited when assembled for testing, you can tack some pigtails that extend out for the testing.

Eric, can you comment on what I wrote above and see if you concur that the control pot appears to be a voltage divider for pin 4 between rail and the voltage dropped source after the motor? Refer to the sample circuit which is more basic but with careful study, can see that the actual circuit is essentially the same except that pin 1 in this case gets power through a diode (and it's associated voltage drop).
 

Superduper

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Superduper

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Are you sure? Not to question or di

docs said:
Thanks, I'll keep a look out on the auction.

I did and you might be right. I thnk it was around 16v but I'll check it again.
Around 12.3v
Wait, are you sure? Because that motor is connected to rails. Very hard to drop that much voltage unless it was through a resistor, or unless there is a huge draw.
 

docs

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Norm, please see below as to the motor checks while in play mode.
1. done
2. done
3. Voltage from ground to pin 3 = fluctuating between 1.5v to 2.2v
4. Voltage from ground to union of 3 resistors = fluctuating between 6.5v to 8.5v
5. Voltage at pin 4 with wiper all way one way = 8.8v to 9v and with wiper all the way the other way = 6.2v

I can confirm that voltage to the deck is around 12.5v.
 

BoomboxLover48

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BoomboxLover48 said:
Like you know the motor got a speed adjustment at the back. I don't know how much that would help, if the speed is high. Manual shows that hole for speed adjustment, like in most motors. In some cases a 15 degree turn, and back to where it was, solved the variation. It happened on one of my Hitachi boxes. I just put the screw driver made a slight turn and brought it back to the original place solved the speed variation.

What readings are we getting on the motor leads?


~ Royce
I asked about the motor Voltage in the early stages.
 

docs

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In order to be sure the power connector is correct (the 2pin connecting wire from the rear chassis to the main pcb) I need a photo of the underside because there should be two wires with protected sheath bridged to itself for whatever reason. One of the wires on mine was disconnected but since it looks like it just connects to itself I don't understand the purpose. I guess all the plugging and unplugging caused it to get snagged.
 

docs

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So...
Checking continuity of the board from ground to the non ground pin of the electrolytic cap gives continuity...?!?!?
Checking the same thing with the motor + and - disconnected from the board, the continuity disappears...

Looks like perhaps the coiled inductor is a problem? Will see what happens with the + disconnected.
 

Superduper

Member (SA)
docs said:
So...
Checking continuity of the board from ground to the non ground pin of the electrolytic cap gives continuity...?!?!?
Checking the same thing with the motor + and - disconnected from the board, the continuity disappears...

Looks like perhaps the coiled inductor is a problem? Will see what happens with the + disconnected.
Since that capacitor is connected to both the + and - rails, all you really checked was for continuity of the entire circuit if you are probing one lead of the cap to the other. As you've already confirmed before that the IC gives a static resistance of 396 ohms from pins 3 to 2 (ground), then what you've just confirmed was that that resistance is still there. By taking the motor out of the circuit, you've just broken the connection that gave you 396 (+ motor resistance). Why do you think the coiled inductor is a problem? It's nothing but a coil of wire. Even if shorted against itself, all that would do is turn the inductor into a jumper and lose it's inductive properties. The other mode of failure is OC and in that case, the motor wouldn't even work.



docs said:
In order to be sure the power connector is correct (the 2pin connecting wire from the rear chassis to the main pcb) I need a photo of the underside because there should be two wires with protected sheath bridged to itself for whatever reason. One of the wires on mine was disconnected but since it looks like it just connects to itself I don't understand the purpose. I guess all the plugging and unplugging caused it to get snagged.
I'm not sure what you are talking about there.



docs said:
Norm, please see below as to the motor checks while in play mode.
1. done
2. done
3. Voltage from ground to pin 3 = fluctuating between 1.5v to 2.2v
4. Voltage from ground to union of 3 resistors = fluctuating between 6.5v to 8.5v
5. Voltage at pin 4 with wiper all way one way = 8.8v to 9v and with wiper all the way the other way = 6.2v

I can confirm that voltage to the deck is around 12.5v.
1 & 2, we are taking the pitch board out of the circuit and replacing it with a known resistance that should be roughly what that sub circuit should be with the pitch pot at midpoint.
3. This reading indicates voltage drop through the IC. As it is fluctuating, it means that it is actively attempting to throttle the motor. Are you sure that the adjustment has no effect? Are you doing this by ear? Because if you are listening to chipmunk music, then how certain are you that the music is not turning from a tenor chipmunk to a soprano chipmunk? The best way to be certain is to use a tape recorded with a sine wave, maybe 1khz and test output with a frequency counter. That way when you say fast, we know exactly how much. Furthermore, this will give you proof if the motor speed is actually changing with the pot position. I don't doubt that it is going too fast. However, you've stated that there is no difference. I don't know if that means that it's always too fast as in fast and even faster, or if it's exactly the same speed fast.
4. I'm a little suprised to see this fluctuating. Not sure if that is by design (with the IC internal impedance varying). On further thought, perhaps the fluctuation is due to the constantly changing motor current. Do we know if the 5.1k resistor is correct? Is that resistor a 5.1k based on it's color coding or measurement or both? Your colors don't seem accurate when displayed on my computer.
5. Is this a stable reading? Seems weird that the previous step gave you fluctuating readings while this would be stable.

Motor voltage: ~12.5 does not reconcile with what I'm seeing in the schematic. Is your system voltage also ~12.5?
 

caution

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Superduper said:
Eric, can you comment on what I wrote above and see if you concur that the control pot appears to be a voltage divider for pin 4 between rail and the voltage dropped source after the motor? Refer to the sample circuit which is more basic but with careful study, can see that the actual circuit is essentially the same except that pin 1 in this case gets power through a diode (and it's associated voltage drop).
Yeah, the motor circuit is in line with the 5512 datasheet example, assuming the circuit between the +/- pitch terminals is a load of ~8K-12K depending on the position of VR704. Bottom line, nowhere close to the 50K on the datasheet.
 

docs

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Norm, the 5.1k resistor is by both the colours on the resistor and tested by lifting a leg out of the circuit.
I'm sure that by changing the onboard 3k pot does have an effect on the speed of play, just varying it slightly between mega fast and silly fast.
I've bought the afore mentioned ebay motor (in fact two of them as the seller had more) so I'm hoping that it is a) the right direction and b) a voltage that can accommodate the voltage required.
If that fails, I guess i'll be on the lookout for a replacement motor from somewhere else!
 

BoomboxLover48

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There must be a way to isolate the motor speed control from the main circuitry and put another motor to fix the problem.


I think we have to move in that direction.

Want to see a happy ending.....
 

docs

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BoomboxLover48 said:
IThere must be a way to isolate the motor speed control from the main circuitry and put another motor to fix the problem.


I think we have to move in that direction.

Want to see a happy ending.....
You might be right. The motor linked earlier has arrived so will see what happens with that.


caution said:
This thread has gotten so long I've lost track. You tried a larger pot/resistor to try slowing it down right?
Correct. Tried a 50k pot instead of the 3k original and it didn't help to slow it down to anything less than smurf hits.
 

Superduper

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One thing still bothers me. I simply do not like reading discrepancies that don't reconcile. This motor gets direct power from the rails, from what I can see. That means at least 15vdc when on batteries, and probably something significantly higher when on AC. In fact, some of the semiconductor voltage data shown on the schematic is OVER 15 volts.

Dave said more than one time that he is reading 12.5 ~ volts at the motor. The first thing that I'd be doing is investigating why.. Either something is wrong or I'm misreading something in the schematic and it would simply drive me crazy until I get an answer either way.

docs said:
Definitely 8-12k resistence between -/+ pitch control leads.
Dave, your post above was #135. I asked this question probably100 posts ago. The reason why it was important is that eliminate that as an issue since in the beginning, you gave readings inconsistent with the expected (above) readings. Otherwise, a lot of additional guessing/recommendation/troubleshooting posts are introduced which just convolutes the thread making it confusing.


docs said:
Norm, the 5.1k resistor is by both the colours on the resistor and tested by lifting a leg out of the circuit.
I'm sure that by changing the onboard 3k pot does have an effect on the speed of play, just varying it slightly between mega fast and silly fast.
The reason for wanting to know this is important because it makes the difference between a working but mis-calibrated speed control circuit, or a non-working speed control.

In other words, if it's working but out of range, perhaps adjustment in the component values, or voltages can result in a "work-around." On the other hand, if there is no effect whatsoever to the pot adjustments, perhaps the circuit or IC just isn't working.
 
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