Will JB Weld work on this?

[Reli]

Dumb question, but just wondering how you would repair this. Just use some JB Weld?

 

[blu_fuz]

Personally, I would try to put a spacer in the gap between the two shaft sections to hold to the correct diameter and try to glue the broken piece to the other side of the shaft/base.

 

[floyd]

Hans that's what I would use brother. You can also use J-B weld steel stick which is the one you knead together. The regular J-B Weld might stick a little better though
.

The good thing about J-B Weld is ,you can sorta kinda adjust it a little bit while it's drying.

 

[Reli]

Personally, I would try to put a spacer in the gap between the two shaft sections to hold to the correct diameter and try to glue the broken piece to the other side of the shaft/base.

The spacer is a good idea! But you would use JB Weld, right? Or is there something better for aluminum?

 

[Reli]

Hans that's what I would use brother. You can also use J-B weld steel stick which is the one you knead together. The regular J-B Weld might stick a little better though
.
The good thing about J-B Weld is ,you can sorta kinda adjust it a little bit while it's drying.

Good to know, thanks!

 

[floyd]

Hans if you need a replacement spline shaft from another pot let me know because I probably have one.

 

[Superduper]

Those split shafts are notorious for breaking off. Usually, one of the halves get bent or becomes loose. Someone tries to fix by straightening it, or attempts to spread them to get a tighter fit, often by inserting a flat screw driver tip to wedge them apart. Except they are brittle, like pot metal, and don't like bending so they break off instead.

Here is how I would fix it. Remove the pot and cut off the broken end(s). Find a donor pot (or just buy a new pot with a similar sized knurled shaft, usually 1/4" or 6mm). Confirm it fits your knob. Trim off a similar donor length so that the new piece plus the original pot will become the same length as original. Go to your nearest hobby store, or even a hardware store and buy an appropriately sized brass tube that will slip over the shaft. If the pot is for volume/balance/treble/bass -- you can just use superglue and glue the parts together. If the shaft is for something that requires more turning force, such as on a function selector, then use epoxy such as jb weld.

By the way, the easiest way to cut them is with a Dremel type of cutting tool, even battery operated ones. Will cut them in seconds and additional attachments can be used to grind/square and chamfer or deburr the ends.

 

[jimmyjimmy19702010]

I’d cut a piece of plastic to correctly ‘space’ the loose piece and super glue the end part only of the loose piece holding it in the correct position until the glue dries.

After removing the spacer, I’d then fill 1/2 of the gap in between with JB Weld. You don’t need to completely fill the void. I’d wrap some tape around the shaft to stop the JB Weld leaking out before it dries.

You will need to allow at least 48 hours for the JB Weld to properly cure and harden.

 

[blu_fuz]

Personally, I would try to put a spacer in the gap between the two shaft sections to hold to the correct diameter and try to glue the broken piece to the other side of the shaft/base.

The spacer is a good idea! But you would use JB Weld, right? Or is there something better for aluminum?

Yeah, or even something more fluid like superglue/epoxy but only enough to get the spacer and loose piece to stick to what is left of the shaft. I think if you goop adhesive all over the shaft you will likely have a stuck knob eventually or the build up might keep you from pushing the knob back on. This idea is pretty much using only the strength of the shaft section that remains on the pot.

 

[Superduper]

https://boomboxery.com/forum/index.php/topic/8012-repairing-broken-tuner-shaft/?fromsearch=1

How I fixed one shaft, a very very long time ago. And not using tons of goop either.

 

[BassHead]

I had a TRC-920 mailed to me, and when received, the power supply was bouncing around inside. I opened up, and the screw posts had snapped into pieces. I was able to fit them together, like a puzzle, and used JB Weld. After a 12 hour cure, it was rock hard.

Some of the posts for attaching the chassis had also snapped and I fixed them as well. I initially tried PVC pipe glue and that wouldn't work. JB Weld is very strong!!

 

[BoomboxLover48]

Place the correct spacer (to hold/grab the knob) well between the gaps, and then drill a hole through both at two places like 5 mm apart, slide a paper clip size pin through the holes, and glue it together (2K epoxy glue like Gorilla glue) using a clamp. Now you have a shaft that has a good bonding to the 50% of the main shaft. Make sure the pin you drive through is not sticking out so that the knob won't go inside.

That is a cheap fix, but will work well.

Perfect fix is like how Norm mentioned!

JB Weld is forms a brittle and strong bond. It cannot bod a thin metal shaft that takes some load. MOre sureface area to bond helps better.

 

[Trommelmops]

Is it thinkable to turn a new shaft? ( for sure )

If nothing helps.....Have here for the gearwheels TRC 920 made a partitional copy of the original switch.....to test the gearwheels...

Hm....i cannot upload pictures..... Ah ok....update flash....