What's The Best Way To Remove Grill Dents?(GF-9797)

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Ghettoboom767

Member (SA)
Just wondering what's the best way to remove numerous dents on a Sharp GF-9797E?

I know I'll be pulling the front off and removing the speakers but what surface should I put it on and I have to be careful not to scratch the front when doing some pounding.

The outer edges I've had sucesss with a flathead screwdriver with a 1 layer of towel around it.
But the main parts I'm wondering if I use a flat plastic hammer or ?
Any suggestions,this is a small screen mesh type grill?
I'd appreciate any help on this.:)
 

Cpl-Chronic

Member (SA)
basically, you put the grill on a flat surface that won't scratch up the grills & use a rubber mallet to bang out the dents.
 

baddboybill

Boomus Fidelis
Use what HHH uses :lol: just kidding. I use regular hammer with flat hard surface at bottom and then flat wood on top tapping hammer evenly. Mesh is usually pretty easy :thumbsup: or you can try rubber mallet.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1372812807.154009.jpg


Bad Bad Bill
 

BoomboxLover48

Boomus Fidelis
Make sure not to elongate the grill when you use any safe method mentioned above. :sadno: Once you elongate it you already done permanent damage to it that is irreversible.
 

Beosystem10

Member (SA)
When it's dented then it's already stretched and bashing it, unless you're a specialist in the art of using the shrinking hammer, can make matters worse so because I'm rubbish at panel beating, I use a heat source (her indoors' hair dryer) followed by freezer spray (compressed air would do just fine if you don't have a can of freezer spray kicking about). This method shrinks the stretched metal back down and better yet, leaves no marks or flattened areas on the outside of the metal object.

I couldn't find any footage of it for this specific purpose but youtube did come up with a good demonstration showing it being done on a much more challenging job, a creased bit of steel car bodywork here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILVWPzO_swY

Not always a success with solid steel, especially on a fold, but with the light mesh it has done well for me on the Sharp 9090, the substrate of the foam speaker grilles on my Hacker SP80 and the mesh grille on Dad's old National Panasonic portable radio. Go on, what's to lose? :-)
 

redbenjoe

I Am Legend
thats an interesting home solution john --
or -- the shrinker tool is not very expensive and easy to use

as for the best surface for pounding out dents -- the pros use metal hammers with a beanbag
 

BoomboxLover48

Boomus Fidelis
[SIZE=medium]Most automotive paints are designed to withstand thermal shock, but if you try this method on other painted surfaces it will ruin the paint.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]I have designed paints that go over the plastic TPO (Thermoplastic polyolefin) bumper for cars. One of the test is thermal shock. Basically the test simulates the effect of a car with a scratch on the bumper entering from ice cold weather to an automatic car wash. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]If the coating is not designed well paint will delaminate near the scratch and peel off.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]In the thermal shock test they freeze the paint panel with a scribe on it and after taking it out from cold conditions it is immediately blown with steam.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]Be prepared to paint the grills if you do this method.[/SIZE]
 

Beosystem10

Member (SA)
:-O
Thanks for posting that. I just checked the grilles on my 9090 and they appear to have survived, the steel parts in the Hacker's speaker grilles which carry the foam weren't painted from the factory as they're enclosed by the foam, so those are ok and Dad would probably have been on the phone yelling at me by now if his radio had started to rust but definitely one to bear in mind.
 

Ghettoboom767

Member (SA)
Thanks so much guys for all the advice!!:)
I'll try the block of wood on a flat surface,and maybe the beanbag method first.:)
Thanks!!:)
I now have a GF-9797E parts box! It will still be a good beater box also but maybe not such a beater if I get these dings out:)
 

AE_Stereo

Member (SA)
I use a stack of magazines (a stack of 3 to 4 books printed on heavy paper, like National Geographic, Focus etc.) as the flat surface and hammer out with rubber mallet. Do the hammering gently and feel it with your bare hand and fingers to check for evenness. You may have to take the grill out of the plastic box to get proper access. Be prepared for painting, if required.
 

Ghettoboom767

Member (SA)
Well,as I turned the Boombox on one hand I meandered the mesh quite nicely with just my fingers! Plus a little help from a small long flat screwdriver!:) I used the flat part near the edges and I have to say it's almost done!! I got most of it out :) I'm bathed the front also and fully cleaned the front!!

Tomorrow in the bright light I'm going to finish any imperfections around the edge or corner,I got so much out,very easy to work with the 9797!!:)
I'll post photos or short vid when I'm done.
I still have to take the flywheel out for full cassette maitrnance.:)
have a good one;)
 

BoomboxLover48

Boomus Fidelis
Ghettoboom767 said:
Well,as I turned the Boombox on one hand I meandered the mesh quite nicely with just my fingers! Plus a little help from a small long flat screwdriver! :) I used the flat part near the edges and I have to say it's almost done!! I got most of it out :) I'm bathed the front also and fully cleaned the front!!

Tomorrow in the bright light I'm going to finish any imperfections around the edge or corner,I got so much out,very easy to work with the 9797!! :)
I'll post photos or short vid when I'm done.
I still have to take the flywheel out for full cassette maitrnance. :)
have a good one;)
Jeff, I've used plastisol coated handles of tools to gently push them out. Plastisol covered ends are very soft and forgiving when compared to flat head screwdriver tips.
 

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