VZ-2000e - Power switching off

[Dago]

Hi All.
I've owned my VZ-2000 since the early 80's. It stopped working around the late 80's. Took it with me when I moved out of my parents' home and kept it with me for the last 30 years or so, including 3 more house moves. Can't bring myself to throw it out. In any case, turned it on, power light came on but no sound at all. Looked all over and finally saw speakers were switched to 'EXT'. Having solved that I had the radio working but cassette and record player not working. Cassette would rewind and fast forward but would shut off if 'Play' was pressed. I decided to try to persevere with it and made some progress thanks to a link provided in a post by Fatdog, to the brilliant Stripdown Instructions provided by Kev (madbadger) at http://www.mediafire.com/?a9900whfke6d85a.

The problem I have is when I turn the power on, it clicks on and the power LED lights up, but then it clicks itself off again and the LED goes out. Any suggestions as to what might be causing it would really be appreciated and/or advice on any tests, etc I could run? I did find a glass fuse located just behind the PCB behind the battery compartment but can't replace it because I don't what type of fuse it is, what amp, etc. I've included an image of the fuse.

I've summarised what I've done so far which perhaps might help in finding out what I've done wrong.

1. Dissembled the unit using madbadger's instructions.
2. Turntable belt had disintegrated so cleaned that up with alcohol and replaced both belts.
3. Replaced the belts in the cassette deck, and also the pinch roller which was all but completely seized.
4. Cleaned all the dust, etc that I could see with a small, soft make-up brush that I pinched from my daughter, and then applied lubricant to all moving parts that I could see/access and cleaned heads with alcohol and applied some contact cleaner to the switches, etc.
5. The posts on the cassette deck floor had snapped off and so I fixed those with some small metal bars glued into the holes I'd drilled in the upper part of the cassette deck. The bottom of the cassette tray was broken before I opened the unit and not because the cassette holder was closed when I opened the unit up.
6. I held a tape in the deck to test it before re-assembling the unit and it powered up fine, all buttons on the cassette worked and the tape played and the LEDs were indicating sound was being picked up from the cassette tape. Speakers weren't connected at that point but everything seemed to be working.
7. After testing the cassette deck, I re-assembled the rest of the unit. Don't know if I could have tested the turntable without fully re-assembling the whole unit?
8. After finishing the re-assemble, I turned the unit on and it gave the expected click and the Power LED lit up, but then almost immediately it clicked itself off again and the Power LED faded. There was no 'bang' or anything obvious to indicate something had blown and the unit continues to power up if I turn it on (and then switch off again). I haven't powered it up again many times to avoid causing more damage.

I don't know if I've accidentally pulled a wire/cable, or maybe damaged something else. I can't recall anything obvious. I tried it with battery power too but the same result - turns on but then immediately powers off. Was fine after sorting out the cassette deck and the only other items refitted after that are the power switch, the turntable control PCB and then the turntable deck unit.

Sorry if it's a long post but wanted to include as much detail as possible. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, this machine is like one of my child or my wife. Probably more my wife cos neither of them has spoken to me much in the last 25 years!

Thanks guys

 

[BoomboxLover48]

That fuse is not the right one to use. It is a resistor put in a fuse holder. Look at the power consumption at the back in Watts.
Watts/120 V gives the fuse value, but buy one slightly above that value. Multiply the fuse in amps with say 1.05.

 

[Dago]

Look at the power consumption at the back in Watts

Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated.

When you say 'Look at the power consumption at the back in Watts', can you just clarify at the back of what, near the fuse or on the back of the unit? The service manual, if I'm reading it correctly, says it's a thermal fuse but doesn't give any other details and there's no info on the fuse. The fuse would have been installed when manufactured. Last week was the first time it had been opened up since I bought it in the early 80's.

Are you saying I can replace it with a normal fuse? The unit is set to 240V using the voltage selector on the back of the unit to correspond with 240V supply used in the UK. Power consumption per the manual specifications is 60W. Would it be OK to ask if I can definitely replace with a conventional fuse what value fuse would I need based on the Watts/Volts please. Thanks again

 

[docs]

First of all, test your fuse using a multimeter set to continuity with probe on either end. If you get a beep its fine move on.
When it is turned on, the solenoids engage, the click sound, I wonder if there is something in the way or a gear in the wrong place.
I would open it up part way only with the turntable slightly to the side to observe what is happening when you power it on.
Also, there is a switch beneath one speaker on the underside which must be in to work, check this is ok.

 

[docs]

After testing the fuse, in case it is dead, which I doubt, its a 4a fuse.
Did you get the power button back in properly? It is easy to break it or put it back in place incorrectly.
Open it and try it manually by pushing the switch inside to eliminate a physical issue.

 

[Dago]

First of all, test your fuse using a multimeter set to continuity with probe on either end. If you get a beep its fine move on.
When it is turned on, the solenoids engage, the click sound, I wonder if there is something in the way or a gear in the wrong place.
I would open it up part way only with the turntable slightly to the side to observe what is happening when you power it on.
Also, there is a switch beneath one speaker on the underside which must be in to work, check this is ok.

Thanks Docs.
As you suggested, I've tested both of the 4A fuses (I can see two) on the power board with a multimeter and they are fine but I've ordered more in any case.

Initially there was a click when it was powered on but that no longer happens, i.e. there is no click sound at all. The power LED lights up and the first couple of Left & Right channel LEDs briefly light up. The power LED remains on. Is this likely to mean the solenoids are dead/faulty?

 

[docs]

I’d check if all out physically behind the turntable first of all.

 

[floyd]

I would check the caps on the power board if there's insufficient power the turn on relays will not stay on or provide sufficient voltage. to power the unit.

 

[floyd]

Also check the switch at the bottom of the boombox because if you lift up the box the turntable won't work.it because of that switch on the bottom.

 

[caution]

I agree with Floyd, check the ones on the power board because you might have an electrolytic cap that has shorted out.

While you're at the power board, re-melt all of the solder joints with some flux to ensure a good result. I only mention this because this is what brought a friend's V2000 back to life after going completely dead. I'm guessing over time, all that jostling caused micro-fractures to appear in the joints.

 

[Dago]

I’d check if all out physically behind the turntable first of all.

Thanks Docs, JVC & caution.

I'm no electronics expert but have tried to look up as much info as I could. I hate asking others to do the work for me. I've ordered some soldering gear and was wondering if it was the capacitor on the power board, so good to know you guys, with far more knowledge than me, have suggested that too.

Both docs & JVC have mentioned the switch on the bottom, and I'll check that when the turntable deck is reinstalled. Is that switch just a safety to stop the vinyls getting damaged when playing if the boombox is picked up while there is a record one playing? From memory I think it is, but it's probably 25 years since it's worked so not completely sure if I remember correctly.

I have completely removed the turntable deck at the moment and so the problem probably isn't that? The cassette was previously working, I checked it before re-assembling, after I'd replaced the belts and pinch roller, and everything seemed fine. Speakers weren't reconnected at that point but all cassette controls were working (Play, FF, RW, etc) and the levels LEDs were showing that the cassette was being recognised. It was only after I'd re-assembled everything that the power seemed to be faulty and so I took it apart again and tried the cassette again, without the record deck installed, and that's no longer working. I'll order a new capacitor and re-melt the joints on the power board as suggested.

Also, was wondering if, when I lubricated all the moving parts, is it possible some lubricant may have gotten onto some of the components and caused a short? I tried to be as precise as I could with the lubricant but is it possible that I might have contaminated anything?

 

[docs]

It is highly unlikely that the functions or the work you have done has directly caused it. More likely it’s a cap on the verge of failing or just the movement of the board. As it is a power issue, as Floyd and caution say, retouch the solder joints first and retest, you might be lucky. If not, replace the large caps. Then we go from there.

 

[Dago]

Thanks for the advice above. I've never soldered before, never mind on electronics, but bought some soldering gear and dismantled a little CD/cassette player to practice desoldering/soldering joints on a couple of circuit boards I pulled out of it. Tried re-soldering all the joints today on the power board and replaced the five capacitors on it. Chuffed to bits, it worked!! Thank you all very much for your advice and for taking the time to answer.

The cassette and radio are now working fine, only the turntable to try and sort out. The left speaker isn't working either but I'm hoping that's because I just didn't reconnect the speaker terminal properly, it was working before the power failure.

As far as the turntable is concerned is it just basically the same thing, i.e. check solder joints, etc? The options to play side A, side B, play both sides & repeat are all lighting up, it's just the most important bit that's not working, PLAY! Also, based on the instructions in the user manual, the stylus for either side A or side B don't move as per the instructions for changing them. So it seems that PLAY, FF & RW are not responding for some reason.

Apart from any dodgy joints and capacitors, can anyone offer any help as to whether it might be something else that could prevent it from playing? I've changed the belts and even if the belts are, perhaps, not the correct ones, I can't imagine that would stop it playing would it, it would just not play at the correct speed? There's also a cord in there which I assume moves the needles? Would that cause it to not play if it was faulty? The cord still looks intact and I think I've lubricated everything and things seems to be moving freely. If I press PLAY, FF OR RW there's nothing happening to indicate that it's trying to move, there's just no response at all if I press those buttons.

I'll start checking the soldering again, etc on the turntable in the meantime, but if anyone has any other ideas, they would be gratefully received. Also wondered if it might be wiring. Is there any way of checking the connections, perhaps with a multimeter? Does anyone know how they are held in the terminal, is it just solder, and if they are soldered, is that difficult to do because they are inside a plastic terminal?

Thanks again for your help in getting the power back, really appreciated.

 

[docs]

The turntable has a leaf switch in thd bottom corner near the motor that is checked every time it is switched on. Think it might bd for door open and closed. There is another one (somewhere, cant remember) which us also part of operation. Check they are intact.

 

[floyd]

make sure you flip the internal external speaker switch back and forth few times because they get dirty you get intermittent in contact. Also check the lp selector inside the lp door it allows you to select between 33 and 45 or Auto select. This is the electronic eye that scans the record to see what size it is.

 

[Dago]

Thanks docs & JVC Floyd. I've got some response now from the turntable functions. The FF & RWD functions are now working, which allowed me to fit new styli, but PLAY still not working. I don't know if that's because the actual PLAY function button isn't working or if the new belt I fitted is the problem (or something else). I've read the operation and service manuals back to front but I'm still none the wiser, partly because I don't really understand a lot of the service manual, especially the detailed electrical schematics.

I don't think the turntable protection cut-off switch, on the bottom of the unit, was seated correctly. I corrected that and that was probably why the FF & RWD functions are now working (because the protection switch was on and stopping the turntable working) and the leaf switch near the motor seems to be OK/intact. I don't know if that switch is working correctly though. Do you know how I could check that?

I don't want to force anything that doesn't want to move freely, but should I be able to turn the gear wheels that interact with the motor by hand? They don't move at all by hand but like I said, don't want to force them. If they should be movable by hand then I could lubricate them or could it be the motor has seized? I've included an image of the motor & gears I'm talking about. I used an image posted by soundsyztem in another post which is the same system, and marked up the area I'm talking about. It just saved me taking everything apart again for now.

Again, apologies for so may questions. I realise it could be a lot of different things but just hoping people with experience of these boomboxes might point me in the right direction. We don't have many businesses near me that deal with older equipment and so my choices are pretty limited, i.e. I've got to do it myself. Spoke to an audio repair specialist who told me I was wasting my time! I'm determined to get it working again though so am really grateful for any input.

 

[Dago]

I've tried to search for threads on leaf switches and one thread in particular went into detail on it but the image links were showing 404 errors which meant I couldn't look at them. How do you know if the leaf switch near the turntable motor is working or set correctly? Lots of people seem to be asking the same question. It seems that if the leaf switch isn't working or isn't set correctly, then that can stop the whole turntable from working but how do you know if the leaf switch is at the correct setting? It's also really frustrating with this boombox that you can't seem to test anything without re-assembling everything before checking if it works, or at least the turntable mechanism, because it requires the door to be shut, etc. Is there a way of testing without doing that? I'm sure it's something simple.

There's a genuine reason why I'd like to get this working. My kid brother has MS and we bought this between us when we were about 16 or 17 when we got our first jobs. He's a year younger than me. Even though it hasn't worked for I don't know how many years, I've never had it in me to bin it and so have carried it with me through several house moves because we lived every day blasting seven bells out of it!. He finds it difficult to listen to loud music now because of his condition but I know if I could get it working, it would be an unbelievable surprise (even though he might have to play it at reduced volume).

It may just be knackered because we blasted it do death back in the day and I'm sure it drove our parents crazy playing Ozzy and Sabbath every minute of the day but I'd love to get it working and give it to him for his next birthday. I'd also be gutted to let it go because even though it hasn't worked for probably 20+ years, the memories attached to it are not replaceable. Me and my brother slept in the same room when we lived with our parents and worshipped this machine.

I am more than willing to de-solder/re-solder every joint if I have to but I'm struggling with things like if the leaf switch is set correctly, or how do I know if the motor is still working. It's really frustrating because I can't find a tradesmen that can help. There doesn't seem to be anyone in the UK who wants to deal with older equipment? Does anyone in the UK reading this know of anyone?

Most of the interest in this type of boombox seems to be in South Africa, Australia and the US.

Up to know I've got the cassette working again, fixed the broken power button and cassette tray, watched about a 100 Youtube videos on soldering and got the power working after melting every joint on the power board and re-soldering. Put everything back together following that, only to find the left speaker isn't working but will try to solve that by dis-assembling and re-soldering the balance slider ( I think it was JVC Floyd who suggested that but I've read so many posts I can't remember).

The leaf switch thing is baffling me though. How to you know if it's sets correctly? How do you know if the motor is still working. The service manual is doing my head in, just as well be in Chinese!.

Bro's birthday is a few month's away yet (August) but if I could get it working he would be over the moon, even if he has to play it quieter than we used to when we were kids. I've still got the LP's we used to play which you just can't buy on CD. Praying Mantis, Samson, Vandenburg? Anyone heard of or remember those?

Thanks everyone and anyone.