Upgraded my GF767 tweeters but what a mess

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saxonman

Member (SA)
I have now upgraded my tweeters in my GF767 and what a differents it sounds soooo much better so clear and real!! had to mod the tweets by drilling new holes in them and had to extend the posts so they would fit but it was worth it!!I was a little disapointed by how the mids had been changed still had old wires on the old speakers and taped up wires one was just lightly on!!! and just look at the bolt on the speaker should be on a tractor!! I will have to take it apart again to replace speaker screws and sort out one of the screw posts in the case(i knew it was gone as the screw was missing) ..Also still need to sort the deck out.

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look at that bolt holding speaker on the right!!! WTF

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close up of that lovely bolt setup!!!


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the new tweeter in place i also got rid of that horrible wire setup!!



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The broken screw post and yes it's the worse one to get to the one between the handle and behind the decks

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old tweeter !!!! can everyone laugh please (what were Sharp doin puting that in)


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new one!! well old from a hitachi


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Terry

Member (SA)
Nice result in the end. Did the last "repairer" just push bare wires into the crimps and sticky tape them up?

I guess you can find all sorts of things when you open up 30 year old gear.

I bet Massive Attack sound great on it now....
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
Never had a 767 but the 777 has cone tweeters. So unless they installed different tweets in the 767, then those are not original. Also, while Piezo's don't require a filter capacitor, all other tweeter do in order to restrict the low hz signals from being passed on to the tweets. Your new tweets don't look like piezos, therefore they REQUIRE a high pass filter cap and it looks like you neglected to install a set.... :-O No wonder you are noticing change in the sound.

Are those scotch tape? :-O :nonono:
 

floyd

Boomus Fidelis
Superduper said:
Never had a 767 but the 777 has cone tweeters. So unless they installed different tweets in the 767, then those are not original. Also, while Piezo's don't require a filter capacitor, all other tweeter do in order to restrict the low hz signals from being passed on to the tweets. Your new tweets don't look like piezos, therefore they REQUIRE a high pass filter cap and it looks like you neglected to install a set.... :-O No wonder you are noticing change in the sound.

Are those scotch tape? :-O :nonono:

:agree: plus it looks like you are using 8 ohm speakers you would get more output from 4 ohm speakers ,the gf 777 uses 4 ohm speakers ,i would check to see what the impedence of the original speakers are first though.
 

oldskool69

Moderator
Staff member
Superduper said:
Never had a 767 but the 777 has cone tweeters. So unless they installed different tweets in the 767, then those are not original. Also, while Piezo's don't require a filter capacitor, all other tweeter do in order to restrict the low hz signals from being passed on to the tweets. Your new tweets don't look like piezos, therefore they REQUIRE a high pass filter cap and it looks like you neglected to install a set.... :-O No wonder you are noticing change in the sound.

Are those scotch tape? :-O :nonono:


Norm is absolutely right about the horn tweets and piezo not being original. Not only is nothaving an in line proper value cap inline an issue, but you'll need the proper value to balance the frequency response curve with the speakers. And how do the mid-bass and bass woofs match up? Apparently the mid-basses were swapped as well. These did not have Aiwa drivers. Unless you have the response values of the drivers plus a frequency and tone generator to match up what your getting in response overlap you'll just have to experiment with the sound to really get it right.

And a matter of mention, without the proper horn driver you will have leakage of bass frequencies via your tweter housing which creates it's own issues. Given that the 7XX series had these deep set horns, it was already difficult to get the highs you're looking for without sitting straight in front of it.

As far as the scotch tape, I realize you discovered it when you opened it, not your deal, and would never do such a thing. ;-) You'd solder properly and heat shrink to seal. Yes? :-D
 

floyd

Boomus Fidelis
if you added a set of coaxial car speakers with a sensitivity rating of 90 db's or higher that would improve the sound greatly.
 

floyd

Boomus Fidelis
this is my beast it will rape a normal gf 777 and i used broken pieces to make it lots of glue and bondo but it was worth it.

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saxonman

Member (SA)
what i'll do is install the high pass caps that were with the tweets!! the mids are 8 ohm and are not original I didn't install them and just see what happens!! and judge it by sound, as for values of speakers i know nothing!! The 767 has piezo tweeters and these are original and yes the wires were just taped on!! I'm happy to keep these ones in as it does improve it from the original and I'm not that bothered that much to try and get some 777 one's!! As for ohm's i was aware of the wrong ohms of these replacements but it still sound's very loud so has not effected it that much and at least the amp won't be overly stressed by higher ohmage!!
 

saxonman

Member (SA)
ahhhhhhaaaaaaaaa just done it oddly enough went to car boot sale today and picked up a bag of capacitors and matched two new ones with the one's which were on the tweeters(longer wires) so now i have high pass filter caps!! sound wise well it's more lets say better!! I'll run it for a bit and see how the sound is but which ever way i had it, it's so much better than the originals !! I'm not taking it apart again until i have the belts for the deck!
 

docs

Member (SA)
I'm pretty sure I recall reading that he 767 came with much lesser able tweeters and lower spec'd woofers than the 777 as original.

Looks like you did a good job overall. :thumbsup:
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
JVC Floyd said:
and i used broken pieces to make it lots of glue and bondo but it was worth it.

Hey Floyd. Does Bondo actually stick to the plastic cabinet? I think I tried bondo before and it does't hold like it does on metal, not does the edges feather like it should.
 

floyd

Boomus Fidelis
Superduper said:
JVC Floyd said:
and i used broken pieces to make it lots of glue and bondo but it was worth it.

Hey Floyd. Does Bondo actually stick to the plastic cabinet? I think I tried bondo before and it does't hold like it does on metal, not does the edges feather like it should.

norm i only used bondo to fill the cracks from where the plastic was glued back together ,bondo is not good for structural repairs only surface damage.
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
Oh I know that. What I'm talking about is after a crack is repaired, there is frequently a noticeable seam. So after a crack is stablelized before painting, I would want to cosmetically fill those areas. For plastic, never found something that works quite like bondo does on auto repairs. What's your experience?
 

oldskool69

Moderator
Staff member
Superduper said:
Oh I know that. What I'm talking about is after a crack is repaired, there is frequently a noticeable seam. So after a crack is stablelized before painting, I would want to cosmetically fill those areas. For plastic, never found something that works quite like bondo does on auto repairs. What's your experience?


I have used Mighty Putty and JB Weld's "JB Stik". For plastics this stuff is great. What you must do howeer is make sure the surface to be filled and the areas around it are roughed enough to provide a solid bond.

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:-D
 

Fatdog

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Some facts regarding the GF-767:

GF-767 has piezo-electric tweeters (might as well not have any at all).

GF-767 doesn't have subwoofer crossover regulators, APLD buttons, mix/mic input, Tape 1 monitor, no badges on the grills, fewer switches and knobs because of the fewer features mentioned.

APLD was not used on the GF-767. The GF-767 uses APSS. The difference between them is that APLD counts number of blanks between the "programs" and stops after some certain user-set number while APSS (PLAY+FF/REW) stops at the first blank that occurs.
 

Terry

Member (SA)
Fatdog said:
Some facts regarding the GF-767:

GF-767 has piezo-electric tweeters (might as well not have any at all).

GF-767 doesn't have subwoofer crossover regulators, APLD buttons, mix/mic input, Tape 1 monitor, no badges on the grills, fewer switches and knobs because of the fewer features mentioned.

APLD was not used on the GF-767. The GF-767 uses APSS. The difference between them is that APLD counts number of blanks between the "programs" and stops after some certain user-set number while APSS (PLAY+FF/REW) stops at the first blank that occurs.


Good info Bobby, and something to keep in mind when making an all important buying decision.

I've had my GF-999 and GF-1000 open any number of times and those original 767 tweeters look nothing like mine, and those woofers aren't the same, saxonman, did you replace the woofers, if so where did you source them, I need eight. :'-( :'-( :'-( :'-(
 

floyd

Boomus Fidelis
Superduper said:
Oh I know that. What I'm talking about is after a crack is repaired, there is frequently a noticeable seam. So after a crack is stablelized before painting, I would want to cosmetically fill those areas. For plastic, never found something that works quite like bondo does on auto repairs. What's your experience?


with crack repairs you have to bevel the edges of the crack so that you have low spot to fill with the bondo ,also sanding the surface with 120 grit sand paper gives the filler a better bond.
 
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