Sharp VZ
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Gluecifer
Member (SA)
Docs' guide taught me everything.
It SHOULD be at this address: http://stereo2go.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f ... 3691063905
But I can't find it since s2go changed!
I do believe theres a screw under the Volume or Tuning knob you need to remove before the case will budge.
Hope this helps!
Rock On.
It SHOULD be at this address: http://stereo2go.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f ... 3691063905
But I can't find it since s2go changed!
I do believe theres a screw under the Volume or Tuning knob you need to remove before the case will budge.
Hope this helps!
Rock On.
madbadger
Member (SA)
11 screws to undo
2 at front bottom of record deck
3 bottom at the back
2 middle/top of unit outer sides
3 small screws at the top of the unit one behind the carry handle
1 hiding under the tuning dial
first remove your sliders and volume/tuning dial there is a screw hiding under the tuning dial its hidden under the black felt......dont drop it in, use a magnetic screwdriver.
open the record door. you will see 4 screw holes, unscrew the 2 outer ones but don't remove them, you don't need to remove the blue cover. Now shut the door as if you were going to close but leave a gap at the top, press down on the top of the door, the record unit will bog down and drop forward, don't worry it wont fall off, the cables behind will hold it.
You will carefully have to stick your hand in and unwind the cable ties that hold the cables, there should be 3.....once the deck comes away, just move it in front and to the right, lean it against the speaker grill....don't try to pull the PCB that the 8 wires that control the record deck are connect to, this comes later.
Now separate the two plugs, there should be a white and a black plug, the black one has a notch on it you press.
now with the record deck moved to the right, look under the on off operating switch, you will see 2 screws either side of the plastic rod that pushes against the electrical switch, undo these and let the electrical switch drop down (if you don't and you put the two halves of the unit together you stand a good chance of breaking the on electrical switch.....trust me on this....i broke mine) now look to the right hand side and you will see 3 screws in a row, remove the 2 that hold to the record deck PCB controls, don't try to put it out you may break it, the 3rd screw is a wire support, unwind this as well......
you can now remove the 11 screws that i mentioned. once removed, remove the tape deck cover and then press eject, if you don't you will break the blue cassette holder, and again trust me on this....coz i broke mine!!
now lift the carry handle about 2 inch with your right hand and with your left hand use your fingers to pull the silver plastic away from the white back of the unit, you will have to push with the handle......you may have to run your fingers up and down the top but just pull gently and the top will part. Once they part be ready to catch the record deck PCB, it tends to drop out, once you have it, move the record deck complete out of the way
(when rebuilding the VZ you will have to put the 2 halves together but not all the way, you have to refit the PCB first, there is a lip inside which you hook it onto then line up the screw holes and fit the screws, then you can clip the halves back together.)
Now concentrate on the sides, don't try to pull the two halves apart yet, you have to unplug the speakers.......the best way i found was to hang the unit off the end of a table, pull the bottom apart and you can see the speaker connection through the back of the speaker cover, (round hole) unplug both from the bottom and then separate the halves, just be careful the front half will stand up on its own, the back wont.......just lay it down.
You now have them in half.......when reassembling, make sure the headphone/mic sockets PCB board is straight, its on like a plastic hinge.....and swivels about. One end pushes into a rubber grommet so it keeps it in alignment.
Sorry this part is only if you remove the radio tuner from the rear of the unit.......Make sure the beat cancel button is pushed in when fitting the radio unit back onto the rear of the unit, if you don't and it doesn't drop into its hole correctly, it makes a crack noise when you stick a pointed screwdriver into it to bring it back into alignment.
and make sure the cassette door is open like i said before if not you will break it........
ask me anything if you get stuck.....
Kev
2 at front bottom of record deck
3 bottom at the back
2 middle/top of unit outer sides
3 small screws at the top of the unit one behind the carry handle
1 hiding under the tuning dial
first remove your sliders and volume/tuning dial there is a screw hiding under the tuning dial its hidden under the black felt......dont drop it in, use a magnetic screwdriver.
open the record door. you will see 4 screw holes, unscrew the 2 outer ones but don't remove them, you don't need to remove the blue cover. Now shut the door as if you were going to close but leave a gap at the top, press down on the top of the door, the record unit will bog down and drop forward, don't worry it wont fall off, the cables behind will hold it.
You will carefully have to stick your hand in and unwind the cable ties that hold the cables, there should be 3.....once the deck comes away, just move it in front and to the right, lean it against the speaker grill....don't try to pull the PCB that the 8 wires that control the record deck are connect to, this comes later.
Now separate the two plugs, there should be a white and a black plug, the black one has a notch on it you press.
now with the record deck moved to the right, look under the on off operating switch, you will see 2 screws either side of the plastic rod that pushes against the electrical switch, undo these and let the electrical switch drop down (if you don't and you put the two halves of the unit together you stand a good chance of breaking the on electrical switch.....trust me on this....i broke mine) now look to the right hand side and you will see 3 screws in a row, remove the 2 that hold to the record deck PCB controls, don't try to put it out you may break it, the 3rd screw is a wire support, unwind this as well......
you can now remove the 11 screws that i mentioned. once removed, remove the tape deck cover and then press eject, if you don't you will break the blue cassette holder, and again trust me on this....coz i broke mine!!
now lift the carry handle about 2 inch with your right hand and with your left hand use your fingers to pull the silver plastic away from the white back of the unit, you will have to push with the handle......you may have to run your fingers up and down the top but just pull gently and the top will part. Once they part be ready to catch the record deck PCB, it tends to drop out, once you have it, move the record deck complete out of the way
(when rebuilding the VZ you will have to put the 2 halves together but not all the way, you have to refit the PCB first, there is a lip inside which you hook it onto then line up the screw holes and fit the screws, then you can clip the halves back together.)
Now concentrate on the sides, don't try to pull the two halves apart yet, you have to unplug the speakers.......the best way i found was to hang the unit off the end of a table, pull the bottom apart and you can see the speaker connection through the back of the speaker cover, (round hole) unplug both from the bottom and then separate the halves, just be careful the front half will stand up on its own, the back wont.......just lay it down.
You now have them in half.......when reassembling, make sure the headphone/mic sockets PCB board is straight, its on like a plastic hinge.....and swivels about. One end pushes into a rubber grommet so it keeps it in alignment.
Sorry this part is only if you remove the radio tuner from the rear of the unit.......Make sure the beat cancel button is pushed in when fitting the radio unit back onto the rear of the unit, if you don't and it doesn't drop into its hole correctly, it makes a crack noise when you stick a pointed screwdriver into it to bring it back into alignment.
and make sure the cassette door is open like i said before if not you will break it........
ask me anything if you get stuck.....
Kev
What an operation!!!!
Cheers Kev, this will be a long process tho. Once I get it open it'll be there for a while. I'm planning a complete overhaul on her. There's a good chance i'll need to get hold of a parts box too (Iknow where there is one) but I don't want to have to fork out until i know i need it. I'll also have to order new belts (cassette and turntable) and styli. Do you know what the belt sizes are by any chance and what styli to get? I know Glue had issues when replacing his styli so I dont want to waste money on ones that wont fit.
It's a big project but trust me, I WILL be in touch
Thanks for your help mate.................
It's a big project but trust me, I WILL be in touch
Thanks for your help mate.................
Thanks Tshorba, i'll get on it this week.
I managed to open her up and she doesn't look too bad inside. Since I picked it up on the cheap about a year ago it has never made a sound
I thought that by opening it up I might find a loose connection or something obvious but alas no. When i got it, the ext speaker switch was switched over to ext so I should probably have tried to deoxit and work the switch before opening it up. Anyway, it needs a good clean. Any ideas as to why no volume at all???????
There's no hum or crackle or very quiet noise (as is often the case with speaker issues). There is absolutely nothing. Any suggestions would be great........
I managed to open her up and she doesn't look too bad inside. Since I picked it up on the cheap about a year ago it has never made a sound
I thought that by opening it up I might find a loose connection or something obvious but alas no. When i got it, the ext speaker switch was switched over to ext so I should probably have tried to deoxit and work the switch before opening it up. Anyway, it needs a good clean. Any ideas as to why no volume at all???????
There's no hum or crackle or very quiet noise (as is often the case with speaker issues). There is absolutely nothing. Any suggestions would be great........
madbadger
Member (SA)
i stripped mine yesterday and made a 85 page full explanation with photos on the strip down procedure, i have created a PDF i have PM'd FatDog telling him ive uploaded it to the site, im waiting for him to put it in the manuals part....
if you want a copy, send me your email......i don't think you can send files via boomboxery......
i sure it will help VZ owners
No sound.........one of my VZ's was only playing via on speaker when i got it, tapping the phono switch brought it back to life, so guessed that the switch was furred up inside. You cant take the switches apart, they are soldered onto a PCB but there is a small hole where you can squirt contact cleaner in, just work the switch for a while to get the cleaner working. In fact yesterday when i did the strip down, i decided to try the tape deck on VZ 3........no sound from one speaker, wiggling the tape selector button brought the sound back, but once i let go, the sound went off.....
it could be something just like this thats wrong with yours...the speakers were plugged in i take it?
Kev
if you want a copy, send me your email......i don't think you can send files via boomboxery......
i sure it will help VZ owners
No sound.........one of my VZ's was only playing via on speaker when i got it, tapping the phono switch brought it back to life, so guessed that the switch was furred up inside. You cant take the switches apart, they are soldered onto a PCB but there is a small hole where you can squirt contact cleaner in, just work the switch for a while to get the cleaner working. In fact yesterday when i did the strip down, i decided to try the tape deck on VZ 3........no sound from one speaker, wiggling the tape selector button brought the sound back, but once i let go, the sound went off.....
it could be something just like this thats wrong with yours...the speakers were plugged in i take it?
Kev
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