Sharp GF-9494 with Apple Airplay...and I'm stuck already

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OhmniD

Member (SA)
Hi all,

First time boomboxer here so go easy, on a whim picked up a Sharp GF-9494 for what I thought was a good price on eBay, originally bought a bluetooth receiver to go into it and it was absolute garbage, so sent it back and instead decided to go down the Apple Airplay route. I already have a few cheapish all-in-one speakers as well as an Airport Express plugged into my main hi-fi, and it's nice to be able to stream the same music all round the house simultaneously.

Thought it'd make a nice winter project, but we're into spring now and it's been on the kitchen table too long! Wishlist for the project
  • Not die or burn the house down (can't say electronics are my forté, I thought this'd be a nice project to learn a bit more though)
  • No external modifications if possible - no holes drilled or pots sticking out or anything like that, keep everything inside and powered internally
  • Keep as many existing features as possible working (tape, radio, mic in)
  • If possible, have it so it'll run off battery too
So here's the plan of attack and the parts I've assembled so far...

The unit itself:

2016-03-20 22.33.55.jpg

It's a wee bit battered but not too bad, adds to it's rustic charm I suppose! Gave it a bit of a clean up inside and out but saving a full strip down for another day. Also sprayed a boat load of contact cleaner everywhere and everything is sounding loads better for it.

The idea was to use one of these cheapo Airplay receivers I picked up from Amazon:

2016-03-20 22.34.38.jpg

Actually sounds pretty good and wi-fi reception on it seems to be decent enough, it also creates it's own wifi network when out of range of my main network, so that'll be great for streaming to if I ever take it out and about.

I was going to connect that to the phono inputs using this:

2016-03-20 22.34.26.jpg

That's the only thing I was going to hack about, desolder the inputs and re-attach them directly to RCAs for the input.

Then the last piece of the puzzle (and the bit I'm having trouble with) - power. Got one of these from Amazon thinking it'd do the job:

2016-03-20 22.34.13.jpg

I was getting all excited, ready to go wild with the glue gun getting everything fixed in place, but thought I'd wire everything up and give it a quick test first.

iPhone connected with RCAs to phono input through line level convertor - sounds great. Did the same with the Airplay box powered externally, streamed like a dream. Then I hooked up the USB board internally to the power supply and plugged in the Airplay box- and I get crazy feedback.

I was a bit unsure of how to hook up the USB board - it's specs say it can take anything from 9V to 40V input and the output is 5V, I measured 33V across the power input (the black and red wires coming from the lower-right board in the picture below). There are 3 pins on the USB board, one input, one ground and one output, since the output is 5V I thought I'd try putting it in parallel, my thinking being the Airplay box wouldn't be drawing that much power - so plugged from the power output board into the input pin on the USB board, then out from there again to the input on main board.

So basically - not sure where to go to overcome this feedback? I thought it might be a ground issue, so connected a wire from the phono ground to the chassis of the line to phono convertor, but that didn't sort it. Perhaps I need to ground it from the power supply ground? Or ground the Airplay box somehow? Or perhaps it's nothing to do with ground and I've inadvertently wired up the power supply in a terrifying and haphazard manner?!

Any thoughts gratefully received...

2016-03-20 22.34.51.jpg
 

OhmniD

Member (SA)
Just tried a couple more tests:

  • Plugged the Airplay box into the mixing input to bypass the line to phono convertor - still got the feedback, so that eliminates it being a phono problem
  • Measured the voltage across the input pins with everything connected - 32.7V
  • Unplugged the Airplay box - no noise.
Makes me wonder if something as simple as a shielded USB cable might fix this!
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
That supply is a buck boost regulator and utilizes switching technology. Ok for digital. Maybe terrible for analog. Oh and I can't follow what you are saying. Where are you getting 32 v from? What's the source? Another switching wall wart?
 

OhmniD

Member (SA)
Sorry, being an idiot, I think had my multimeter set to AC not DC, getting about 15.5V now. Power source is the standard 2 pin radio/figure of eight lead going into the side, which is that board bottom right. It seems to go off to to a transformer then come back, along with wires from the battery supply (you can switch between mains and battery using a toggle on the back), then only two wires come back out to actually power the unit (I've marked them in the attached pic).

I bought that USB board because I saw it linked on another bluetooth Boombox build (though I can't for the life of me remember where) - thought all this was going to be relatively easy to accomplish but I think I need to step away from the screwdrivers and do a load more reading! Sadly the only service manual/wiring diagram I've found is in German, I have enough trouble understanding what's going on with them in English...

post-3270-0-09166300-1459028396.jpg
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
A few things.

One, I'm still unclear exactly what you are trying to say about the 3-pins on usb and how you are connecting it. Just use a short usb cable to tether the regulator to the streaming device.

Secondly, don't parallel the 5v. What for? If you don't know how the regulator is configured, you are just asking for trouble. You are thinking of the regulator usb sockets like they are 5v battery cells. They aren't. I'm guessing they all draw from the same rail so it's probably redundant to parallel them. But if they aren't, and each socket is independently regulated, then you definitely don't want to parallel them. That's not now to get extra capacity. Instead get a regulator with sufficient capacity per socket.

Then there is the fact that these modules use switching pwm technology. In essence, it switches at a very high frequency, i.e. 500mhz and the output pulse frequency and width is regulated to produce the necessary output. They all produce some noise and some poorly designed ones introduce so much noise as to make them useless to power certain devices. Certain filters and RC snubbers can be added to reduce or minimize that noise but the skill necessary to come up a solution is beyond you. First those designs don't provide schematics and the pcb design makes it virtually impossible to break out the circuit to make or add changes.

You said that connected externally, it sounded fine. But you didn't say how the streaming device was powered. Same or with a different power source? If same, then maybe relocating the usb regulator supply might resolve your problem. Otherwise you are better off powering your add on modules using a linear regulator as opposed to the buck/boost designs like the one you are currently using. Remember, you are injecting audio through the phono input which just happens to be extremely sensitive to interference, much more so than standard line level signals.
 

OhmniD

Member (SA)
So it's fair to say I made a bit of a tit of myself when I originally posted this, lots of enthusiasm but absolutely no technical expertise whatsoever. I resolved myself to go and do some reading and find a way around this, but in reality the Sharp just sat on my kitchen table unloved since I was last on here in March.

While having a clearout of stuff I decided I would have one last stab at it, and if I couldn't figure it out I'd just sell it on. I was speaking to my cousin about it (he's a very hands-on sort of guy, has built his own small boomboxes), he suggested I power the Airplay receiver from it's own 5V battery, rather than trying to leach it off the Sharp's supply and having to worry about stepping it down etc. I went away and did some research and discovered this:

https://www.adafruit.com/products/1944

Seemed to be perfect! Can attach a lithium polymer battery of my choosing, and can also be powered/charged at the same time, and has a switch port to allow you to to turn the battery on and off as needed.

So also bought one of these batteries:

https://www.adafruit.com/products/354

Seems to be way overkill, even without charging it out of the box I still managed to power the Airplay receiver for about 4 hours before I got bored and turned it off. Haven't tried it on a full charge yet, but I expect it'll outlast the D batteries if I take it out and about.

Other bits I'd already bought:

Airplay receiver, pretty cheap but seems to be doing an admirable job. I've just seen they've released a smaller, updated version too (it's round and kind of looks like a Chromecast)- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neet®-Wireless-Receiver-wireless-streaming/dp/B00O0U37HO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475442569&sr=8-1&keywords=neet+airplay

Line to phono attenuator: http://www.juno.co.uk/products/monacor-lpc1-line-phono-converter/432333-01//?currency=GBP&flt=1&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4MK_BRC1n6KTtezikbIBEiQA872hYU-_9fo-ZU3A8CFkT-wE6sTwsfJKTWJ4NGr092bb9uMaApBf8P8HAQ

Plus various RCAs and USB cables - had to get right angle versions of both to make them all fit in the end.

I've assembled it with self-adhesive velcro tape for now, having researched what people use to stick PCBs down. Didn't want to go with hot glue until I'm 100% on the positioning of everything and it's all working, may still go back and do this though.

So basically I mounted everything in place, desoldered the phono inputs then resoldered them onto an RCA for the output from the phono box, and drilled holes in the back for the charger input and switch.

Some random pics:

2016-09-30 16.36.17.jpg

Airplay board in place

2016-09-30 16.36.46.jpg

Battery in place, charger board just kicking around ha

2016-09-30 16.36.52.jpg

Line to phone converter fitting like it was meant to go there

2016-10-02 21.40.55.jpg

Switch and charger input - I am not very good with a Dremel.

And that's it really. Fitting it back together was an absolute pain in the arse, and there's sometimes a little bit of noise generated by the Airplay board as it's next to a speaker, it's not noticeable when music is playing though.

Rainy day jobs left to do are redo the cabling routing inside as it's a bit of a mess, fit a new switch without markings (currently 1 is off and 0 is on, which annoys me - and no, I can't just swap the cables over to reverse the throw) and maybe add some kind of RF shielding around the Airplay board to stop that noise. Overall I'm pretty chuffed with it though, I've been streaming to it for the last 1/2 an hour without issue.

How did I do on my original wishlist?


  • Not die or burn the house down (can't say electronics are my forté, I thought this'd be a nice project to learn a bit more though) - Pass, so far so good, though I'm not going to use it when I'm not supervising it - I don't trust my work enough!
  • No external modifications if possible - no holes drilled or pots sticking out or anything like that, keep everything inside and powered internally - Fail, the switch and cable in are pretty small though
  • Keep as many existing features as possible working (tape, radio, mic in) - Pass - everything still works except the Phono input, which I was always going to be sacrificed anyway
  • If possible, have it so it'll run off battery too - Pass

So there we go. If you're going to do a Bluetooth/wireless conversion and are too much of an imbecile to figure out how to get power to it, check out the Adafruit board.

Superduper - cheers for your original contributions, your reality check made me realise quite how far out of my depth I was and that I was going to electrocute myself or start a fire if I'd kept on. Hoping this solution is acceptable and relatively safe!
 

OhmniD

Member (SA)
Wee video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TrRzEgOvy4

Delighted I can now reclaim my kitchen table!
 

ralrein1

Member (SA)
You kids and your new fangled contraptions. I enjoyed you posts and your humor. Its a good and wonderful thing to not burn down the house. Finally,nice job on all your tinkerings......seems to work.👍
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
I'm glad you got it sorted out. Old technology didn't have to deal with electrical noise that digital devices now put out. New technology are all digital and by their nature, aren't affected by noise as much as analog circuits are to noise. For that reason, marrying the two can sometimes be a bit of a headache, as these old analog devices aren't shielded against interference from RF emissions and electrical switching noise. Put a cell phone on top of your boombox and in many cases, you'll quickly see what I'm talking about, especially on AM or SW.

I can't fully explain your previous issues since I'm still not 100% sure exactly how you had the system rigged up nor am I picturing your explanation of the crazy feedback. However, I am venturing to guess that firstly, the USB power supply you got (1) emitted too much electrical noise, either from design or due to unpredictable behavior from parallel bridging of the outputs, or (2) insufficient power to your streaming device. Really, the solution could have been accomplished by using a linear regulator instead that converts and regulates the normal system voltage down to the 5V that your streaming device needs. Being a linear supply, this should eliminate the noise issues you were observing from the switching setup.

In any event, you've found a solution to your problem so I guess that's all that matters.
 

oldskool69

Moderator
Staff member
Interesting. And trial and error are our best teachers in most cases. Not always best to do it with items that go "poof" though. :lol:

Congrats on a pretty unobtrusive first time modification. :thumbsup:
 

Lasonic TRC-920

Moderator
Very cool thread, first time I have seen this device added to a radio. I have done many many bluetooth mods. I may have to try this. As Superduper mentioned, adding modern digital to old analogue can raise all sorts of issues. It has been the bane of my existance since I have been here.

More importantly, I'm glad you didn't just give up!

You should fill out your profile so we all know where your at.

Best of luck pissing off the neighbors with that thing!
 

T-STER

Member (SA)
Very cool, I still want to BT mod a box but haven't built up the courage yet. I still have an amp and wood here to build a box like Jimmys, the wiring befuddled me a bit. I need to step my game up!

This is impressive and a great mod, i love the blend of modern convenience in an old shell, cool as hell well done!
 
T-STER said:
Very cool, I still want to BT mod a box but haven't built up the courage yet. I still have an amp and wood here to build a box like Jimmys, the wiring befuddled me a bit. I need to step my game up!

This is impressive and a great mod, i love the blend of modern convenience in an old shell, cool as hell well done!
With regard to DIY boxes, I can promise you the construction of the box is far more difficult than the wiring! :-)

Build the casing and I'll step you through the wiring setup!!

It will be worth your while when you crank it for the 1st time!

Rock on!!!! :-)

Jimmy........ :-)
 

T-STER

Member (SA)
jimmyjimmy19702010 said:
With regard to DIY boxes, I can promise you the construction of the box is far more difficult than the wiring! :-)

Build the casing and I'll step you through the wiring setup!!

It will be worth your while when you crank it for the 1st time!

Rock on!!!! :-)

Jimmy........ :-)
Your right Jimmy i'm gonna get to it, i cant wait to hear it..
 

T-STER

Member (SA)
jimmyjimmy19702010 said:
Have you selected your speakers yet? (the specs of the speakers will directly influence your box design and sizing)
I haven't, but much to my wifes annoyance i have been ammassing speakers for a few months saying they may be "possibles", i don't mind buying some but if i have some that are good then....

I imagine some nuskool speakers woould be better in the long run tho.
 
It's very difficult to find the right spec speakers to suit this application - 4 ohms, high sensitivity (90dB+).

The 8 inch drivers I used (4 ohm, 92dB sensitivity) have proven themselves to be absolutely perfect - loud as all hell, durable and very bassy (particularly now that they've been run in).

The bass knob on the Lepai never needs to be adjusted from 'flat' as the whole setup defaults to bass heavy.

Look at all the DIY Boombox YouTube videos out there - very few of those boxes have good bass - sure they're loud with forward mids etc but heavy bass? - Nope.

Big speakers in a big cabinet - that's the secret - you don't need 150 watts RMS per channel if you get the speaker selection right.
 
T-STER said:
Which ones do you use Jimmy, do you have a link please?
Drivers: (A pair)
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/391091783753

Tweeters: (Each)
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272205770843

The tweeters are 5.43 ohm which, after hooking them up through the crossover to the 4 ohm drivers will have the amp see a 4.80 ohm load - perfect!

Krix crossover: (Each)
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271966033891
This crossover was designed to go with the above tweeter and an 8 inch driver.

Amazing value when you consider how good this tweeter/driver/crossover combo sounds.

The V5.0 build video:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=i0AbYX7TBNc

Sorry to the OP for hijacking this thread. I'm out! :-)
 
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