Screws stuck in the back panel

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Jboulukos

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There are 2 screws stuck in the back panel tabs that I cannot remove. These screws do not go all the way through to the front panel tabs and did not prevent me from removing the back panel of the radio. One is almost stripped and one just spins but doesn’t move in or out. Any advice on how to get these out? I’m guessing the previous owner used some incorrect size screws in these two tabs. 292FD46E-B25B-422F-82A1-AB7B0A320386.jpeg842AC771-ED08-42FE-98BE-F9930521AD3E.jpeg
 

docs

Member (SA)
If you cannot pull the rear away while turning the screw that spins I would hazard a guess that where it screws in to has broken away from the inside column so is just spinning. Try and pull the rear away firmly while turning the screw to see if it will lever away. If not, you might need to try and get an open angle to get some pliers on the spinning part inside.
 
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Jboulukos

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If you cannot pull the rear away while turning the screw that spins I would hazard a guess that where it screws in to has broken away from the inside column so is just spinning. Try and pull the rear away firmly while turning the screw to see if it will lever away. If not, you might need to try and get an open angle to get some pliers on the spinning part inside.
Very good input. I never thought that the inner plastic stop could be broken inside and spinning with the screw. Highly likely now that I think about it. I’ve tried pushing a small wooden coffee stir stick from the back so as the push the tip of the screw as I unscrew, no dice. The screw is deep in the tunnel and the screw end does not extend past the end of the tunnel. (For both faulty screws). The end of the tunnel has a tiny hole just for the small screw threads to exit. I’ve tried placing a rubber band over the screw driver head to gain traction but did not work.
I may try to use a very tiny screw extractor but I know it will be hard to find here in Colombia. At least i can use the end of the tab/tunnel as the new stop point or even build up some washers for space (Once the screws are out). Not sure if anyone has use a screw extractor for this job or if they even make drill bit extractors that are tiny and long enough to reach the screw in the tunnel. I’m going to keep trying because one of the screws is for the tab on the lower corner seems that would be important to secure. 48D6FAD9-3761-4FB3-B7AD-B3D512B274CC.jpeg1563E693-121E-4995-8727-F425AB08B5CC.jpeg
 

deech

Member (SA)
This is a difficult situation that i've also dealt with but i left the boombox as it was.
i Screwed the other ones back and left it away. I remember i was pissed and if
i get a bad start then everything goes wrong. I ve also seen some online products that are
really helpful but i didnt order anything. Anyway this boombox i have is still left with a stuck screw.
Not really helpful but i wanted to share my experience :)
 
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Jboulukos

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Update: I used a tiny metal drill bit and attacked the screws from the back side. I actually was able to drill out one of them, the one that was suspected of being in broken plastic inside the tunnel.
 

Jboulukos

Member (SA)
Good job,is the rear section removed?
It’s currently together without screws holding the panels. This boombox has 6 tabs for screwing the rear panel to the front panel and came with 1 working screw, 2 short larger screws that’s were stuck inside their rear tabs and we’re not long enough to exit the rear tab to join with the front tab. The other 3 tabs did not have screws. Not certain if the screw that works is actually an original. Using the screw that works on the other tabs does not give a tight connection. I think the tunnels for the other tabs are larger due to previous owners screwing larger circumference screws into them. The screw takes but it’s not snug, so I’m thinking of 2 options depending on the tab situation...longer screw, shorter screw and screw with nylon spacers to fill the play when the screw is all the way in. Here’s a pic of the black screw that works for 1 of the tabs, and another larger screw that I have extracted. Does the black screw look original? B0DD44E7-E767-4666-9E59-16E588F3AF14.jpeg
 

Jboulukos

Member (SA)
Update: I went downtown and scoured the hardware stores for screws of which none had the correct size, shaped or threads. Then I was able to find some similar screws at a few of the street shops for repair of household items such as blenders. I now have 5 out of 6 tabs fitting snug. Which is a big deal because now I can lift the boombox from the handle and also the tape deck buttons are snug. The tape deck is attached to the rear panel and since that wasn’t snug before due to faulty and missing screws, the buttons weren’t able to be depressed appropriately from the front face.
I made a couple photos for my reference due to all of the screws being different lengths and not all screws working in each tab hole. Hole number 1 has a short screw that is currently jammed, from previous owner, in the back tab and won’t come out yet. I have labeled all of the 5 working panel screws. The last photo is a guy looking through his coffee can of screws for options for me.

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CAB7DFE2-C211-48F2-B3C0-25B807182A82.jpegBEA2846F-CF51-4D52-89BA-C6A5276C6DD6.jpeg
 

docs

Member (SA)
Looks like you have it sorted then. Did you repair what you needed to inside apart from the screw posts?
 
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Jboulukos

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Looks like you have it sorted then. Did you repair what you needed to inside apart from the screw posts?
Still need to attack the cassette deck. My first time. Going to start with complete cleaning using cotton swabs and alcohol, then belt change and lubrication with sewing machine oil as needed. I’m going by what I’ve learned from reputable YouTube videos, the service manual and this forum. Also want to understand if I need to place foam or insulation type material in the box between the woofers as I believe this box originally had some separation material there (mine doesn’t have it). Maybe that will help with the lack of bass?
 
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