Remove radio window on Hitachi 8290
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Most of the time, the radio dial window is attached using a strong, rubberized glue. Careful use of a heat gun can warm the glue enough for you to pry the window out. If you don't have a heat gun, sometimes a really hot hair dryer can work.
However, some manufacturers used a glue similar to super glue, which poses more of a challenge. I'm not familiar with which glue is used on the 8290.
Either way... patience is key.
Just curious, how bad is the current window? Scratched or completely cracked?
However, some manufacturers used a glue similar to super glue, which poses more of a challenge. I'm not familiar with which glue is used on the 8290.
Either way... patience is key.
Just curious, how bad is the current window? Scratched or completely cracked?
Are you sure the window is glued down? Some of the time, they are installed over plastic pegs that just gets mashed down with a heated plug to weld the case and glass plastic together. If it's like that, you can use a hobby knife and carefully cut away the mashed peg and while it takes time, I've had success doing it that way.
That's was my initial thought but then I realize that he's talking about the tuner glass.Reli said:
Hi All,
Many thanks, I managed to get it out, Fatdog you were correct, it was rubberised glue.
The actual plastic panel is clipped in and you can realease the clips from behind, however there is a aluminium bezel on the outside which is glued on the plastic window and the case this was tricky but all worked ok.
many thanks.
Can I ask 2 more questions please?
What is the best glue to re-assemble when I am ready?
Secondly the plastic windows are very badly clouded and yellowed. I have tried to rub down the tape door window but hasn't made much difference. I am not in the process of soaking in hydrogen peroxide, oxi-action plus UV from sunlight to see what that does.
However not convinced this is going to work. I can probably remake the tape door window but the tuner panel is a complex shape.
Does anyone else have any experience/suggestions on this? I am beginning to think that my only option is to try to find a donor case from a TRK-8190 or TRK-8290
Many thanks, I managed to get it out, Fatdog you were correct, it was rubberised glue.
The actual plastic panel is clipped in and you can realease the clips from behind, however there is a aluminium bezel on the outside which is glued on the plastic window and the case this was tricky but all worked ok.
many thanks.
Can I ask 2 more questions please?
What is the best glue to re-assemble when I am ready?
Secondly the plastic windows are very badly clouded and yellowed. I have tried to rub down the tape door window but hasn't made much difference. I am not in the process of soaking in hydrogen peroxide, oxi-action plus UV from sunlight to see what that does.
However not convinced this is going to work. I can probably remake the tape door window but the tuner panel is a complex shape.
Does anyone else have any experience/suggestions on this? I am beginning to think that my only option is to try to find a donor case from a TRK-8190 or TRK-8290
For your question regarding what glue to use when reassembling... I'm sure a lot of (if not all) members would suggest just using hot glue. You want to use something that will make it easy to remove again if you ever need to.
I'm not sure how well the hydrogen peroxide trick will work on clear plastic. If that fails, just get yourself a headlight restoration kit. This is the one I have used on my car and my daughter's car to good results. You might not need to use the UV headlight coating spray, but it might not be a bad idea.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Two-Step-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B01M75GUJB
I'm not sure how well the hydrogen peroxide trick will work on clear plastic. If that fails, just get yourself a headlight restoration kit. This is the one I have used on my car and my daughter's car to good results. You might not need to use the UV headlight coating spray, but it might not be a bad idea.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Two-Step-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B01M75GUJB
Thanks everyone.
Not sure that the restoration kit will work, as think the plastic may be too far gone. Have already tried to rub down the tape door, but didnt make much difference, but will give it another go. I have attached a photo just to show how bad it is.
I will still give it a go as don't have much to lose but thinking my only option will be to find a donor.
Not sure that the restoration kit will work, as think the plastic may be too far gone. Have already tried to rub down the tape door, but didnt make much difference, but will give it another go. I have attached a photo just to show how bad it is.
I will still give it a go as don't have much to lose but thinking my only option will be to find a donor.
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Hi Reli,
yes, I think the machine has spent a very long time in the sun. The box is in a very sorry state and very dirty and greasy. thankfully a very deep clean seems to be bringing much of it back however I have played around with the windows and there is no bringing them back life I think.
So now have the challenge of trying to source a donor.
yes, I think the machine has spent a very long time in the sun. The box is in a very sorry state and very dirty and greasy. thankfully a very deep clean seems to be bringing much of it back however I have played around with the windows and there is no bringing them back life I think.
So now have the challenge of trying to source a donor.
floyd
Boomus Fidelis
If you have a table saw or know somebody who does you can order lexan scraps off eBay and make your own. Be advised you need a special blade to cut the lexan usually an 80 tooth carbide tipped saw blade will do perfect cuts.
Oh and the lexan scraps have paper on both sides and you can leave it on while you make the cuts and it just peels off when needed.
Oh and the lexan scraps have paper on both sides and you can leave it on while you make the cuts and it just peels off when needed.
Acrylic is probably better than lexan for these because they readily polish while lexan is a real pita.
Thanks JVC Floyd and Superduper,
The challenge is the complex shape, it is designed to clip in so has jugs and clips and also it has a recess all around the edge.
I did ask a plastic fabricator, but they couldn't do it. I also expect that getting someone to match the shape will be expective.
I would rather not fudge it with a piece of plastic that doesn't fit properly as it should.
I would rather try to track down a donor if I can. I know the TRK 8290e and the TRK 8190 have the same plastic pieces, so if I could find a donor machine of these parts at a resonable price I think that is currently my best option. Ideally I would also like to replace the front case if I could as mine has some hairline cracks, but this is not essential.
I have posted on the want section but no joy so far, I am hoping that someone may have some spares. There are a couple of 8190s on ebay but they are too much money, so need to keep looking. Certainly looks like the 8290e is the rarer of the 2 models.
The challenge is the complex shape, it is designed to clip in so has jugs and clips and also it has a recess all around the edge.
I did ask a plastic fabricator, but they couldn't do it. I also expect that getting someone to match the shape will be expective.
I would rather not fudge it with a piece of plastic that doesn't fit properly as it should.
I would rather try to track down a donor if I can. I know the TRK 8290e and the TRK 8190 have the same plastic pieces, so if I could find a donor machine of these parts at a resonable price I think that is currently my best option. Ideally I would also like to replace the front case if I could as mine has some hairline cracks, but this is not essential.
I have posted on the want section but no joy so far, I am hoping that someone may have some spares. There are a couple of 8190s on ebay but they are too much money, so need to keep looking. Certainly looks like the 8290e is the rarer of the 2 models.
To be honest, there simply isn't a large stash of boombox shell parts that people keep around for a perfect occasion (like this) to sell. And even if someone did keep a shell that's in good shape, then it would have to be this particular model. In other words, the chances are very slim. It's far more common for a unit to be parted out if the cosmetics are bad rather than if it wasn't working right since electronic parts and belts are relatively easy to find whereas cosmetic parts are very hard.
We are only offering suggestions to you, to get your unit restored. But if you want to stick with looking for the perfect OEM glass or shell, then be advised that some members have boxes in search of parts for over a decade. And I can tell you right now that every year that has past since I started collecting, I've noticed less and less of the classic boxes for sale. Will a piece of plexiglass cut from stock have that intricate shape with all the perfect slots and holes and clips? No. But a rectangular piece slightly larger than the opening with a relief routed around the edge will definitely work and look fine, and there's no reason that a plexiglass company can't make that cut for you. You just need to glue the backside in place rather than rely on the clips which aren't visible from the outside once installed anyhow. Also, your glass can possibly be sanded down and polished out. You might have to take it down further than you think and be a bit more aggressive when sanding to remove all the surface oxidation. Those glass is thicker than you think. Besides, what have you got to lose -- it's already opaque, what's the point of keeping it like that.
We are only offering suggestions to you, to get your unit restored. But if you want to stick with looking for the perfect OEM glass or shell, then be advised that some members have boxes in search of parts for over a decade. And I can tell you right now that every year that has past since I started collecting, I've noticed less and less of the classic boxes for sale. Will a piece of plexiglass cut from stock have that intricate shape with all the perfect slots and holes and clips? No. But a rectangular piece slightly larger than the opening with a relief routed around the edge will definitely work and look fine, and there's no reason that a plexiglass company can't make that cut for you. You just need to glue the backside in place rather than rely on the clips which aren't visible from the outside once installed anyhow. Also, your glass can possibly be sanded down and polished out. You might have to take it down further than you think and be a bit more aggressive when sanding to remove all the surface oxidation. Those glass is thicker than you think. Besides, what have you got to lose -- it's already opaque, what's the point of keeping it like that.
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