Next up -- tired old CS-880 grill refurb.

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Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
A total PITA to remove. Aiwa really did a number with this one. They put it in like they expect that grill to never ever come off again.

Well, this one was dented, tagged, and rusty. It has to be redone as it's something I can't live with.

So everyone who follows ebay to any degree already has seen this guy. Some of you got cobalt grills. I got a metallic silverish/grayish grill with a slight tinge of sage/olive. It's not a color that I'm gonna find but that mint-green pearl that I previously bought actually looks like a fairly close match. Good enough, in my book.
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What you don't see is the backside. Aiwa really dropped the ball on this one. They painted the front of the grill. But the backside was left unpainted. If you got one, yours might look just like this one. I guess Aiwa saved a few gallons of paint in their CS-880 run but with nothing protecting the metal, it rusts -- big time. Here is what it looks like. Those tabs are dangerous so rather than lose my dignity, I decided to give it the once over with a scotch brite pad (it's all shredded up afterwards) and some detergent. Ok, twice over. Then I'm going to shoot it with Krylon's rust converter which is a chemical. It's a product that came out in the last decade or so, and basically chemically converts the rust into a paintable primer. Since this is primarily surface rust and not scaly rust, it should be just the ticket to save this grill and the skin on my fingers. The spray goes on clear. After awhile, the rust begins to change to a black color. Dries to the touch in 3-4 hours. Instructions say wait 24 hours to top coat. I just looked at it, and it's still working.
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Center badge removed, Dents hammered out, then Cleaned and selectively wirebrushed.
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Edges are stripped with wirewheel, and all tabs are straightened/flattened with a C-Clamp.
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After the rusted panel is properly converted and painted, I will show the repainted grill.
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
No. A flat wood surface. The grill hammers easily and doing it on a sandbag will practically guarantee that the dent will become a bump. You can buy auto body working hammers that are flat as opposed to standard hammers which have a rounded convex surface.
 

redbenjoe

I Am Legend
you did it right :thumbsup:

cuz --if we over-hammer thin metal into a soft surface -
then it stretches --so it will always pop in and out = concave or convex
but it can never again be flat
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
Hey, wait a minute -- are you TESTING me Ira? :lol: :lol:

However, even stretched metal can be fixed by shrinking it, either with a shrinking hammer (not recommended since we aren't going to use body filler) or just use a torch. :yes: :yes:

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Here is a photo of the rusted backside again. The solution is still curing but you can see most of the rust has already turned black. When cured, the black will become hard, and is an acceptable primer for the top coat. Looks like this one is gonna take some time since it snowed here a couple days ago (first time in over a decade) and this afternoon, I'll be suprised if it hit 40.

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Johnny

Member (SA)
Glad it went to you Norm, are you opened to side jobs? :w00t: :lol: :lol:

Really shapin' up, will be nice to see restored unit.
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
Thanks Johnny. I'm up to my ears in projects right now and I'm jumping from project to project as I wait for parts, wait for weather, or just skipping from frustrating jobs. I'll update regularly as I have them.
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
The weather here has been freezing. I don't want this thing inside while the chemical reaction is going on due to the smell and the low temperatures means a very slow cure. I did another coat today just to be sure. Maybe tomorrow, it'll be dry enough to paint. We will see. Be patient. How's the weather in FL? Sunny and bikini roller babes?
 

Scotty_M

Member (SA)
First of all, sorry for bringing back a 3 year old thread.
Secondly, what happened to the finished product update Norm?

I also testify that these grills are a real SOB to remove...i got one off today with the aid of a few wise words from Norm re the glued plastic strips on each end covering 3 grill screws. Hairdryer worked a treat.

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Sazeus

Member (SA)
Scotty_M said:
First of all, sorry for bringing back a 3 year old thread.
Secondly, what happened to the finished product update Norm?

I also testify that these grills are a real SOB to remove...i got one off today with the aid of a few wise words from Norm re the glued plastic strips on each end covering 3 grill screws. Hairdryer worked a treat.

Scotty
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Hey Scotty,
Do you know the sizes for the foam surrounds? I have a CS-J88 on a boat that will need a set, it'd be cool to get em ordered before it gets here.
 

Scotty_M

Member (SA)
Sazeus said:
Hey Scotty,
Do you know the sizes for the foam surrounds? I have a CS-J88 on a boat that will need a set, it'd be cool to get em ordered before it gets here.
I can maybe get the surrounds for you if it's easier. I have a guy in Bris who just deals in the surrounds all shapes and sizes.
I need to get some from him too.

Scotty
 
I can maybe get the surrounds for you if it's easier. I have a guy in Bris who just deals in the surrounds all shapes and sizes.
I need to get some from him too.

Scotty
The speaker repairer I usd last time could refoam those speakers for around $25-$30 each - he did my Hitachi 9300 speakers and they came out great!

James
 

Sazeus

Member (SA)
Scotty_M said:
Hey Scotty,<br />Do you know the sizes for the foam surrounds? I have a CS-J88 on a boat that will need a set, it'd be cool to get em ordered before it gets here.
<br /> <br />I can maybe get the surrounds for you if it's easier. I have a guy in Bris who just deals in the surrounds all shapes and sizes.<br />I need to get some from him too.<br /> <br />Scotty
<br /><br />If I know the sizes I reckon Will can get em for a reasonable price because he has friends at speaker bits. So maybe we can get em cheap.
 
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