Lasonic TRC-975 Volume Level Indicator (LED modification)

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Megabass

Member (SA)
Hey folks, I thought I'd share this mod with you guys. Basically, I wanted to change the standard Red and Green LED's for something a bit funkier, so I thought maybe a 'rainbow colour' effect would look pretty neat :thumbsup:

I did initially have difficulty finding the rectangular type LED's, and in different colours, but eventually managed to find a seller based in China (via eBay), that had something that looked like it could work. These are the LED's I got (item link >here< - mods please remove if against rules)

leds.jpg


Took around 12 days to arrive in the mail. The total cost including shipping was approx GBP£5 for x10pcs of each colour (60pcs total), so not bad overall :yes: For this mod, I won't be using the White ones, but I might save them for something else, for example, illumination behind the cassette reels.

Next job is to get inside the unit. Luckily the PCB that holds the level indicators is a separate unit, with only around three wires connected to it, so removing the unit was fairly straight-forward (just remember to make note of the wiring).

pcbold.jpg


A Sanyo B1403N IC controls x5 LED's to form the level meter (the Green ones are a Power/ Stand-By indicator). The LED's opposite each other are connected in parallel to give the impression of separate Left and Right channels, but in reality they're the same. A second IC would be required to make them into Stereo level meters (another potential modification maybe).

I went ahead and de-soldered the old LED's. The legs have small tabs on them so at least you know that they're all around the same height. The replacement LED's also had small tabs on them as well, but I found they could still slip through the holes in the PCB, so attention had to be paid to the height of each one. Here's the new LED's fitted:

pcbnew.jpg


I thought I'd replace the two electrolytic capacitors on the board as well. I'll probably do a blanket replacement of all the caps at a later date. On inspection, I noted that most of the caps on the main PCB, PSU and amplifier section seem to fall into the following (common) values: 0.47uf, 1uf, 10uf, 47uf, 100uf, 1000uf, 22uf, 220uf, 3300uf (anything around 50v will suffice).

Let's power up the unit to see what they look like:

pcbpwr.jpg


On first impressions, the Blue LED's were far too bright, completely washing out the colour from the other LED's. I figured soldering in a potentiometer (variable resistor), to set the brightness down would help things. You can see this soldered in series with R935). The same was done for the Orange LED's as these were a tad on the bright-side also.

The Green ones look a bit dim so will probably try 'borrowing' some of the power from the Blue LED's (seeing as these are the only static ones in the circuit), but for now it seems ok so I didn't bother (the picture there was taken prior to setting the Blue brightness down).

All that was left to do was re-assemble the unit and take some more photos.

eq.jpg



cass.jpg


I still had the protective film over all the transfers, bar one tape door (even the voltage selector switch and rating plate still had these on), but I went ahead and peeled them off as they were starting to look a bit scruffy anyway.

film.jpg


I quite like the way the LED's match the overall colour scheme of the 975 :cool: A quick once-over with some dashboard shine on the outer casing, job done.......now if I could only figure out where I left the piece of Lino! :breakdance:

975.jpg
 

blu_fuz

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Do you have extra LEDs to sell? I could see doing this on my 975 too :yes: eventually :lol:

I like that you incorporated the colors of the LEDs based off the colors of the 975 blue/red/yellow :drool: .
 

Megabass

Member (SA)
I do have LED's left over, but if you're in the US, I think it might be more cost-effective for you to purchase them from the eBay seller (link above). Shipping anything (even regular Airmail), out of the UK is notoriously expensive.
 

Gluecifer

Member (SA)
Absolutely AMAZING, Megabass!! Really lovely work!
Please do a video of them in action when you're done tweaking.



Rock On.
 

Megabass

Member (SA)
As promised, here's a quick video of the mod in action. Apologies for the slight blurriness, my camera hates artificial light.

[youtube]_zHd9x5ll1o[/youtube]
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
Nice mod but you should keep in mind that different colored LED's have very different electrical characteristics. Reds require only 1.6v or so of forward voltage to turn on whereas blues require somewhere around 3.0 - 3.6 volts. Also, the current consumptions of the various LED's will be different. In the case of the B1403N, the LED rails are either tied directly to the Vcc+ rail, or with a single dropping resistor. Further consideration should be given to that the TRC-975 uses a "fake" dual VU which is actually a single channel VU with both the left/right tied together. So that means each of the 5 op-amps inside that IC will be driving TWO leds with twice the designed current. As this IC drives the LEDs directly instead of through discrete transistor drivers, over-current could be problematic.

The point is that you are experiencing brightness variations due to a system designed to have consistent load characteristics (LEDs) throughout the 5 internal op-amps. There is no way to really fix that since blues naturally require about twice the turn on voltage of reds.

So best case and most likely scenario is that you will get varying intensity of the LEDS and the meter calibration of when each segment lights will change and become uneven.
Worse case scenario is the L1403 IC does not last very long and you risk blowing that IC.

Just an FYI.
 

Megabass

Member (SA)
Superduper said:
The point is that you are experiencing brightness variations due to a system designed to have consistent load characteristics (LEDs) throughout the 5 internal op-amps. There is no way to really fix that since blues naturally require about twice the turn on voltage of reds.

So best case and most likely scenario is that you will get varying intensity of the LEDS and the meter calibration of when each segment lights will change and become uneven.
Worse case scenario is the L1403 IC does not last very long and you risk blowing that IC.

Just an FYI.

Hi thanks for the info. Yes it was definitely a bit of a balancing act, especially reigning in the the Blue and Orange LED's. The pots seem to have done the trick as those LED's appeared to be 'sucking up' most of the power. Hopefully the new arrangement won't put too much additional strain on the IC.

I think it's likely the Blue LED's are outside of the IC circuit, seeing as they are static, together with the fact that the datasheet for the IC shows only a maximum of x5 LED's supported.

Some additional information from the datasheet regarding voltage:

"Most of the power consumed by the circuits is consumed within the IC. When lighting the five LED's continuously, make sure the Vcc does not exceed 9v. When using a higher power supply voltage, insert a resistor in series with the LED's to restrain the power consumed within the IC package".
 
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