JVC PC-55 PC-550 LCD display - I'm declaring it irreparable

RoZyBoom

Member (SA)
If you've lost segments of your JVC PC-55 / PC-550 LCD display, and unless something basic and obvious like edge of the ribbon where a single connection point was lost and you can restore contact with a small piece of adhesive/tape, I'm declaring the JVC PC-55 LCD display currently irreparable.

- The ribbons are 40 years old range now, and as such very delicate.
- Bends and scratches on the ribbon can create brakes in continuity of the traces.
- Any attempts at pulling it off to reattach it with something like 3M Z-Axis Conductive Tape is very risky and likely to damage the ribbon further, contact points on the ribbon as you remove it first for reattachment, etc. and no guarantee you won't loose further connections in addition to not fixing the ones that are already failed.
- I have tried conductive paint to try and get contacts back, and it did not help things on this ribbon.
- On the LCD display side, the fragility of the attachment points on either side and narrowness of the attachment area make this like heart surgery. There is also risk you can damage the contact points on the LCD glass surface.
- Out of the factory the ribbons are secured with clear scotch tape in a few areas - on the LCD side and some boards. Attempts to remove this old sticky glue tape prior to attempts to reattach the ribbons may rip conductive tracks on the ribbons, rip the ribbon, damage contact points etc. Event cutting this tape with a blade is very risky to the ribbon.

Re: Backlight
Since the aging of the elements involved like ribbon, glue, etc. make the whole area delicate to work in, if you have burned out fuse type 12v bulbs in your display, I suggest not attempting to bend the plastic tabs that secure the bulb circuit board all gently and gingerly to preserve the tabs. This white back light cone plastic is now old and brittle and it will not bend easily, and when it gives it will just likely break and run your tool into the ribbon with uncontrolled force, disturb it and potentially damage it. Why fight to preserve two plastic tabs you never see at a risk to the ribbons and LCD display you always look at? Instead, with needle nose pliers reach down and break two of the tabs toward middle of the board on one side of the board to free up the light circuit board removal. Also note, pulling the board up after taking it out of the back may apply forces to the ribbons running around it through the two 12v wires on the bottom of the board. I suggest you remove the deck's black metal bottom secured with two screws in the bottom of plastic deck face in corners, and three screws at back of circuit board, where the one next to the battery compartment connectors has a ground wire under the screw. Once you remove this bottom on the bottom of the circuit board you can unwind the red/black12v wire to give yourself more slack and freedom to move the lightbulb board up and out of the back of the display to switch the bulbs without pulling the delicate ribbons as you're doing so. JVC left us room on the 12V light bulbs board wire, but twisted it and tucked it away on the bottom of the board. Use this slack to not disturb the ribbons when replacing boards. If you damage your LCD elements ribbons, it will brake your heart.

If someone has repaired a JVC PC-55 missing elements Deck LCD display ribbon issues successfully, please share your method with us all to help preserve these 55s/550s.

For those of you who have damaged LCD elements, don't throw these boomboxes out, perhaps a solution will be found of some sort.

I know this is sad to say. Maybe we'll figure it out. Maybe someone will make new replacement ribbons that address this issue? I currently don't see any other way to successfully restore display function once these ribbons and their contact points are compromised.
 

floyd

Boomus Fidelis
I say if it's already ****ed up then there not much to lose .
I would do what you said won't work and that's to eliminate the ribbon cable in favor of a slat wire attached directly to the legs of the LCD panel and soldered right to the PC board on the other end. This is not easy and it's hard and time consuming plus you need something to magnifying the work area.
 

RoZyBoom

Member (SA)
Every attempt I made...I've made it worse. So...I'm not sure if there isn't much to lose if you mess with it more.

The LCD panel is a glass sandwich with nothing to solder to because there is no metal contact points. It is some type of LCD (painted?) trace to which the thin paper-like ribbon attaches with some magic glue at the time that made contact but not cross contact to the other pins next to it - impressive 80s stuff. See photos here: https://www.boomboxery.com/forum/th...-ribbon-problem-anyone-find-a-good-fix.32659/

On the board, there is more chances to work something out, but for starters...removing the old ribbon is very risky for the glass LCD traces, and considering the age they can come off the glass with the ribbon or crack and lose continuity. It's a bloody nightmare this LCD because whatever solution you apply, it MUST be 100%, otherwise, what's the point? May as well have not touched it and left the few missing elements. Will you take just one or two or three traces off that ribbon on the board side, or will you rip it all off? If so, how will you connect the new thing to the glass? It's a mess!
 
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floyd

Boomus Fidelis
Every attempt I made...I've made it worse. So...I'm not sure if there isn't much to lose if you mess with it more.

The LCD panel is a glass sandwich with nothing to solder to because there is no metal contact points. It is some type of LCD (painted?) trace to which the thin paper-like ribbon attaches with some magic glue at the time that made contact but not cross contact to the other pins next to it - impressive 80s stuff. See photos here: https://www.boomboxery.com/forum/th...-ribbon-problem-anyone-find-a-good-fix.32659/

On the board, there is more chances to work something out, but for starters...removing the old ribbon is very risky for the glass LCD traces, and considering the age they can come off the glass with the ribbon or crack and lose continuity. It's a bloody nightmare this LCD because whatever solution you apply, it MUST be 100%, otherwise, what's the point? May as well have not touched it and left the few missing elements. Will you take just one or two or three traces off that ribbon on the board side, or will you rip it all off? If so, how will you connect the new thing to the glass? It's a mess!
Everything you said is true.
It's been years since I worked on one of these displays so my senile mind probably thought I either repaired or partially repaired one. Lol. I do remember those tiny contact points where the ribbon attached to the LCD panel being so tiny and weak I was afraid just moving anything around. I did get it working but I sold both of the spares I had because the PC 55 is great when it's working but once it has problems I mean you will never see another boombox so tightly packed inside and it's just a motherfucker to even approach working on it.
 

RoZyBoom

Member (SA)
I just got a weird PC-55 that acts super unpredictably when the deck is plugged in with the ribbon yesterday. I'm talking, backlight of the display goes in and out, the deck power itself goes in and out, the amp does weird stuff in standby power when deck is plugged in, and even goes to the point where deck won't power up and then amp won't turn off fully or into standby. Strange. Receiver fine without the deck, so a lot of weird behaviour caused by the deck's advanced power control features. It will be another opportunity to get into the deck and maybe learn something, which again, has missing elements. Funny thing is that the deck is 100% working mechanically.

I will give you this...if you're lucky for some reason to have the elements missing because of contact loss against the circuit board then you can clip something onto that point, like a plastic clip, to apply some pressure between ribbon and circuit board and restore contact. But that's rarely the point where contact is lost. In my experience it's always against the darn magical glass sandwich.

And oh..the scotch-tape they've applied in various spots around glass and circuit boards to this ribbon...don't ever try to remove it! The ribbons are to old, glue too gluey and no good can come out of it.
 

Brutus442

Member (SA)
Having never worked on the 55's deck, I can attest to the fragility of these ribbons. Before tackling the bulb change I was warned by multiple members here about fishing around with meaty fingers and the dangers it posed, nevermind the brittle plastics...

DocP was the only member I knew of that created his own ribbon and had success. There was a thread about it here or at S2Go but I can't find it. Many of the old S2Go threads were purged so it may have gotten lost.
It'll be a crying shame to declare this beautiful display dead but I understand the level of work and investigation you've already done has already hit the limit of possibilities.
Keep plugging away, I find the investigative process on this display a real learning opportunity for us pudgy fingered DIY'ers
 
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RoZyBoom

Member (SA)
We owe it to the 55 Brutus442, to find that repair thread and details! If anyone can, please let us look at it, analyze it, preserve any info about any success with this 55 issue.
 
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Brutus442

Member (SA)
Possibly this thread on S2Go?

Not this precise thread but the principal is identical. DocP did a write up around 2012 or so on S2Go and followed the same methodology but had it the wiring encased in either a tape like ribbon or something to that effect.
Essentially the idea is identical and if memory serves DocP had some success although don't hold me to my fading memory. I'd love to know the S2Go poster ever fixed the problem

I only remember this thread because I was intrigued at the repair talent among collectors and the ingenuity of fabricating parts for boxes that have a chance at a new life
 

Tinman

Member (SA)
It's hard to tell but it looks like he soldered the wires to the glass panel pads.
Are those solderable?
Unless it's some kind of conductive glue, hard to tell.
 

RoZyBoom

Member (SA)
Did you ever try the conductive tape I suggested?
Not glue but tape.
Yes. The issue is the fragility of the ribbons. Say some are unglued and don't have contact, but you need to remove the others to apply the tape. You will damage the ribbon contact points. Some will stay on the board/glass some will come on the ribbon. In the case of the glass removing the ribbon may damage the contacts on the glass sheet. This stuff is over 40 years old after all - brittle and dry. The whole thing is a booby trap. Boomby Trap?
 

RoZyBoom

Member (SA)
@Superduper has shared this important video another post and I thought I'd paste it here as it is about the ribbons and may solve our PC-55 display issue. Called FPC - Flexible Printed Circuit, there maybe a possibility of re-establishing the connection of the display or circuit board by applying a heat cycle to the top of the FPC (protected by a piece of shielding aluminum). In the video the individual applies the heat through the sheet of aluminum at 200C, but later suggests lower starting temperature. If someone wants to try 150C and perhaps 175C (or maybe ever start at 100C?) - please document and report back. I don't have a deck that can undergo this at this test time, but the minute I have a failed display I'll try it myself.

Thanks @Superduper for sharing this video with us. Let's hope this works and that PC-55 display can in deed be repaired, and without new/replacement parts and without much complexity. This would be a FANTSTIC development. As I said off the top - don't ever discard or give up on your PC-55s! :-)

 

aiwapanasonic

Member (SA)
This is the photo from the s2g thread with wires soldered to the glass. Is this really a photo of the pc-55 screen? I thought (have been told; not seen it myself) it is a sandwich so you wouldn’t have open access like that; and the connectors or paths are graphite so not solderable.
 

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RoZyBoom

Member (SA)
This is the photo from the s2g thread with wires soldered to the glass. Is this really a photo of the pc-55 screen? I thought (have been told; not seen it myself) it is a sandwich so you wouldn’t have open access like that; and the connectors or paths are graphite so not solderable.
That is the "sandwich". You can see the two "slices" of glass with the crystal in the middle and connection points on the edge. These are the connection points that can come off/get ripped off with the removal of the current ribbon. That happened to me. These are the points in-between which I tried to apply conductive paint and the axis tape, without success.