New member here, so forgive me if this has already been discussed recently. Hoping to get my JVC M90 up and running again. Going to start with the basic first, like replacing the belts. Looking to purchase some new OEM replacement belts or as close to the original specs as possible for my JVC M90. Does anyone know of a good source currently selling m90 replacement belts? Any feedback on KP Components belts quality or specs? Thanks
JVC M90 OEM replacement belts source
- Thread starter Figure-it-out
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Transistorized
Member (SA)
OEM belts are long gone at this point. Even if there were any NOS, I doubt they would be any good. Look for PRB belts. They are some of the last good NOS belts I have found.
We have a belt size by model section. Look up this thread, it will help you on your way.
www.boomboxery.com
We have a belt size by model section. Look up this thread, it will help you on your way.
JVC Belts by Model
This information is from the Russell Industries PRB Cross Reference List. Not all models are listed below. If you have belt information for missing models, please post it and I'll update the list. 4ED-1203 Belt SCA12.0 4ME-4800 Belt FRX12.0 4ME-4804 Belt FRX12.0 4RD-1406 Belt OB14.0...
www.boomboxery.com
Thanks for the link and the feedback guys. Figured getting any OEM belts would be out of the question given the low search results and age of the boombox. Exciting to check these ones out. Fingers crossed.
Transistorized
Member (SA)
I am not 100% sure but, sometimes when the belts start slipping and/or break, it can open the fusible resistors on the cassette logic control board.
The reason for this, is to protect the solenoid actuators from being held in the on position by the logic circuitry. The system uses a timing wheel with a photo cell pickup to determine when the deck has responded and then kicks off the actuation solenoids.
Sometimes, when the belts start to slip, the deck starts to repond when the front panel buttons are pressed, but the resistance of the deck to lift the heads or engage a feature, causes a worn belt to slip. When that happens, the timing wheel never signals the deck has completed the function and the solenoid stays on longer than intended. When that happens, it can overheat the fusible resistors, which by design, fail open and cut the power to the solenoids.
After replacement of the belts, if you find that the deck does not respond to any buttons on the front panel, you could have more issues. Hopefully not. But just something to consider as a possibility.
There are others more qualified than I in this department should you find that belt replacement didn't solve you issues.
A properly working logic circuit should also perform a reset (noticeable clunk/click) upon power up when in the stopped position, door closed and no cassette in the bay.
The reason for this, is to protect the solenoid actuators from being held in the on position by the logic circuitry. The system uses a timing wheel with a photo cell pickup to determine when the deck has responded and then kicks off the actuation solenoids.
Sometimes, when the belts start to slip, the deck starts to repond when the front panel buttons are pressed, but the resistance of the deck to lift the heads or engage a feature, causes a worn belt to slip. When that happens, the timing wheel never signals the deck has completed the function and the solenoid stays on longer than intended. When that happens, it can overheat the fusible resistors, which by design, fail open and cut the power to the solenoids.
After replacement of the belts, if you find that the deck does not respond to any buttons on the front panel, you could have more issues. Hopefully not. But just something to consider as a possibility.
There are others more qualified than I in this department should you find that belt replacement didn't solve you issues.
A properly working logic circuit should also perform a reset (noticeable clunk/click) upon power up when in the stopped position, door closed and no cassette in the bay.