J1 led dial light replacement

Status
Not open for further replies.
kittmaster

kittmaster

Member (SA)
Finally finished up my J1, sans the alarm, (parts anyone?) and in the process found the usual lamp burnt out, took the failed M90 dial project leds and subbed them in the J1, the results came out surprisingly good. Ran it overnight, and appears to be stable......so this is how I did it......enjoy.

imag0692.jpg


imag0693.jpg


imag0694.jpg


imag0695.jpg


imag0696.jpg


imag0697.jpg


imag0698.jpg


imag0699.jpg


imag0700.jpg


imag0701.jpg


imag0702.jpg
 
THAFUZZ

THAFUZZ

Member (SA)
Great work. I have to get that changed out on mine. It's still working but would look so much better with LEDs :thumbsup:
 
docs

docs

Member (SA)
Nice job thanks for sharing.
Its good to see you posting again too, its been too long.
 
Jboogie2384

Jboogie2384

Member (SA)
Holy crap that looks great!! Can you post up a link as to where you got the LEDS's from. Man I was gonna sell my J1 but after that I'm a keep it!! :thumbsup:
 
kittmaster

kittmaster

Member (SA)
You can get them from radio shack for like $5 apiece I think (3 years old info)......I bough a bunch of epay back in the day when I was doing the conion/m90 dial light projects, got like 50 or so for like $20 or something.

With white you have to be careful of the wavelengths because some whites have a "blueish" tint and some don't.
 
m40dotcom

m40dotcom

Member (SA)
While we're on a thread about J1 lights, anyone ever replace one of the VU green or red lights in the middle? the top right green (D602 on the board) isn't working on mine right now. Not seeing anything wrong on the board, so I would assume it's the light, and those look to be fairly specific/custom.

Anyone know how I might get that replaced or even test with a multimeter to see if the real issue is the light?

j1a_3.jpg


j1b_3.jpg


j1c_2.jpg
 
kittmaster

kittmaster

Member (SA)
I would bet the driver chip over the led failure. I would desolder the "bad" led, and put in where another "good" led is and see if it lights up, if so, the chip is bad, not the led. Easier to replace the chip than that style of LED.
 
k2j

k2j

Member (SA)
kittmaster said:
I would bet the driver chip over the led failure. I would desolder the "bad" led, and put in where another "good" led is and see if it lights up, if so, the chip is bad, not the led. Easier to replace the chip than that style of LED.
Click to expand...

Just make sure you don't reverse the polartity on that sucker...the LED's have a positive and negative side.

Or you could plug the board in and fire it up you should be able to read if voltage is getting to the LED by probing the back.

Lots of diff ways to test that one out.
 
m40dotcom

m40dotcom

Member (SA)
Thanks for the quick ideas. I'll look into it (with the guidance of my electrical nerd brother so I don't break anything). So if it's the chip or something that isn't replaceable and I can't get it back to original condition, you think it's possible to just tap that light off the other side? (if the light is all good of course) Sure if you happen to have the balance all to one side the VU wouldn't be technically correct, but who the F even uses the balance knob on a boombox or anything with speakers a foot apart? Not sure if that would cut the brightness of those 2 lights because it's running 2 vs 1, then I wouldn't like that idea as much.

Thanks again!
 
kittmaster

kittmaster

Member (SA)
m40dotcom said:
Thanks for the quick ideas. I'll look into it (with the guidance of my electrical nerd brother so I don't break anything). So if it's the chip or something that isn't replaceable and I can't get it back to original condition, you think it's possible to just tap that light off the other side? (if the light is all good of course) Sure if you happen to have the balance all to one side the VU wouldn't be technically correct, but who the F even uses the balance knob on a boombox or anything with speakers a foot apart? Not sure if that would cut the brightness of those 2 lights because it's running 2 vs 1, then I wouldn't like that idea as much.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

There are always parts around, you just have to be patient......hell took me 2.5 years just to even look at mine.......LOL
 
Jboogie2384

Jboogie2384

Member (SA)
Just ordered 50 of them!! :thumbsup: could you tell me what resister you used? I can't really tell the color code in your pic. If anybody wants LEDs check eBay theyre all over the place and on the cheap!! 50 of them for $4!!!
 
baddboybill

baddboybill

Boomus Fidelis
kittmaster said:
I would bet the driver chip over the led failure. I would desolder the "bad" led, and put in where another "good" led is and see if it lights up, if so, the chip is bad, not the led. Easier to replace the chip than that style of LED.
Click to expand...
Could also be a failed resistor which would be my guess. :hmmm:
 
kittmaster

kittmaster

Member (SA)
baddboybill said:
kittmaster said:
I would bet the driver chip over the led failure. I would desolder the "bad" led, and put in where another "good" led is and see if it lights up, if so, the chip is bad, not the led. Easier to replace the chip than that style of LED.
Click to expand...
Could also be a failed resistor which would be my guess. :hmmm:
Click to expand...

Can't be the resistor, if you look you can see that on the left and the right channels, are two 150 ohms in parallel creating a 1W 75 ohm current source, if the resistor was bad, all the leds would be out, have a problem, or not working at all. He says its only one led, so that would rule out the resistor being bad.

My best guess is a crack in the trace, a bad driver chip, or bad led.
 
kittmaster

kittmaster

Member (SA)
Here is the retool I had to do to make it 220 to 15 to 110 to 15 and it works as expected.

Hope this helps some on how it can be done.

IMAG0680.jpg


IMAG0681.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom