From the beginning here: http://www.boomboxery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=6025&hilit=louder+blaster
IT'S THE RETURN OF THE LOUDER BLASTER....COMPLETE ! ! !
The 12th of August will mark Two Year's since the start of this project. To say I was a little over ambitious with this would be an understatement. My lack of understanding of certain sections of this build led to some issues that I just couldn't over come. Which brings me to something I have to say before I go any further...
Any
can slam a bunch of parts together but you have to be :superduper: to make it work.
Thank you Norm for all your personal time on this project. Countless comments in my original thread, a sea of PM's answered, all the phone calls and eventually all your hands on work trouble shooting this beast. YOU ARE THE BEST...and it couldn't be done with out you!
The goal of this project was meant to be simple. Too re engineer a vintage 80's boombox to have WAY MORE POWER than stock and to full fill my need of complete street domination. Easier said than done. But in the end, it was achieved.
When Doc Brown from Back To The Future built his time machine, he used a DeLorean, not because he had too, but because it was GORGEOUS.
For this same reason, I used the GPX 990. It's big, with 8in woofers and had lots of room inside for all the additional electronics that ended up packed inside it.
But it's also a very beautiful radio
The Updates:
AC/DC power has been worked out. The 2nd amp now run's off the stock power switch on batteries as well as wall power, 110v.
The massive Free Air Kicker Sub Woofers had an operating frequency that was too low to make a full range of sound and were replaced with very sensitive 8 inch drivers.
The 2nd amp's LED indicator light has been wired to the "Record" LED to show it has power.
The VU's have been repaired and are working great!
In an effort to seal the cabinet the vents in the rear of the cabinet have been taped off.
There were two separate chokes in line on each tweeter which was creating SUPER HIGHS. I removed one on each side.
Heavy batten padding was placed behind the cassette deck and above and below the amp in an effort to separate the two sides.
More battening was added behind the speakers on each side to help deaden and tighten the bass.
Even with the MASSIVE heat sink, during heavy loads over long duration's the amp was running hot and a small 1.5 inch diameter cooling fan was added to the heat sink. This has corrected any prolonged over heating. I doubt I will ever run it as hard as I did in testing, but you never know!
The Out Come:
AMAZINGLY LOUD ! ! ! SHOCKINGLY LOUD ! ! ! REALLY F'N LOUD ! ! !
This is what this project was suppose to be.
The ULTIMATE BATTLE BOX. :catfight:
I wish I would have had her up and running at the Nor Cal Meet
.
This thing is DEAFENINGLY LOUD, No Joke! Nothing I own even comes close
With the Treble and Bass flattened out, it produces volume effortlessly. On 3 it is louder than anything I have heard to date on 9 D Cell BATTERIES!
C100F
M90
National A6.....BRING IT BABY!
(I'm going to leave Melly's FH-207 off this list because it's not a battery box and that thing is fringen scary!)
Last year Norm made a small PC Board with a potentiometer on it to control the out put of the old amp before it gets to the 2nd amp. Today was hours of adjusting and testing playing different types of music. Hip Hop old and new, Dance, Metal, Classical, 80's original, talk radio. I managed to get a good adjustment between the old amp and the new amp and it's CRUSHING
What's Left To Do:
This project may never be done, but it's getting close. I still want to work on the cassette deck. It works, but needs belts and keys and I think it might need some adjustments, but it does try to play so that's good.
I still need to wire it up for blu tooth.
Add Chrome center dust covers to the speakers
Down the line I may work it into a 6 speaker system and cut the tweeter holes larger, get larger tweeters to be used as mid range and put tweeters where the mic's are above the tweeters.
I'm thinking of un-soldering the "Mic Mixing" potentiometer from the main broad and wiring it to the 2nd amp, right on the front of the radio. Currently in order to be able to adjust the 2nd amp, I need to have the VU's out to access the adjustment potentiometer. This would make performance adjusting easy as pie.
I want to add a small knob to the small PC Board potentiometer that Norm made for me that interfaces the old amp and the 2nd amp. I can adjusting it through a small hole I drilled in the back of the case with a screw driver, but not on the fly. Again, to make dialing the radio in easier.
[youtube]wEOmfiMDopw[/youtube]
OK, I will say with CONFIDENCE....I will battle ANY radio that runs on D cell batteries HEAD TO HEAD, stock or modified AS LONG AS it's not a ply wood car sub woofer.
BRING IT 
IT'S THE RETURN OF THE LOUDER BLASTER....COMPLETE ! ! !
The 12th of August will mark Two Year's since the start of this project. To say I was a little over ambitious with this would be an understatement. My lack of understanding of certain sections of this build led to some issues that I just couldn't over come. Which brings me to something I have to say before I go any further...
Any
can slam a bunch of parts together but you have to be :superduper: to make it work.Thank you Norm for all your personal time on this project. Countless comments in my original thread, a sea of PM's answered, all the phone calls and eventually all your hands on work trouble shooting this beast. YOU ARE THE BEST...and it couldn't be done with out you!
The goal of this project was meant to be simple. Too re engineer a vintage 80's boombox to have WAY MORE POWER than stock and to full fill my need of complete street domination. Easier said than done. But in the end, it was achieved.
When Doc Brown from Back To The Future built his time machine, he used a DeLorean, not because he had too, but because it was GORGEOUS.
For this same reason, I used the GPX 990. It's big, with 8in woofers and had lots of room inside for all the additional electronics that ended up packed inside it.
But it's also a very beautiful radio
The Updates:
AC/DC power has been worked out. The 2nd amp now run's off the stock power switch on batteries as well as wall power, 110v.
The massive Free Air Kicker Sub Woofers had an operating frequency that was too low to make a full range of sound and were replaced with very sensitive 8 inch drivers.
The 2nd amp's LED indicator light has been wired to the "Record" LED to show it has power.
The VU's have been repaired and are working great!
In an effort to seal the cabinet the vents in the rear of the cabinet have been taped off.
There were two separate chokes in line on each tweeter which was creating SUPER HIGHS. I removed one on each side.
Heavy batten padding was placed behind the cassette deck and above and below the amp in an effort to separate the two sides.
More battening was added behind the speakers on each side to help deaden and tighten the bass.
Even with the MASSIVE heat sink, during heavy loads over long duration's the amp was running hot and a small 1.5 inch diameter cooling fan was added to the heat sink. This has corrected any prolonged over heating. I doubt I will ever run it as hard as I did in testing, but you never know!
The Out Come:
AMAZINGLY LOUD ! ! ! SHOCKINGLY LOUD ! ! ! REALLY F'N LOUD ! ! !
This is what this project was suppose to be.
The ULTIMATE BATTLE BOX. :catfight:
I wish I would have had her up and running at the Nor Cal Meet
.This thing is DEAFENINGLY LOUD, No Joke! Nothing I own even comes close
With the Treble and Bass flattened out, it produces volume effortlessly. On 3 it is louder than anything I have heard to date on 9 D Cell BATTERIES!
C100F
M90
National A6.....BRING IT BABY!
(I'm going to leave Melly's FH-207 off this list because it's not a battery box and that thing is fringen scary!)
Last year Norm made a small PC Board with a potentiometer on it to control the out put of the old amp before it gets to the 2nd amp. Today was hours of adjusting and testing playing different types of music. Hip Hop old and new, Dance, Metal, Classical, 80's original, talk radio. I managed to get a good adjustment between the old amp and the new amp and it's CRUSHING
What's Left To Do:
This project may never be done, but it's getting close. I still want to work on the cassette deck. It works, but needs belts and keys and I think it might need some adjustments, but it does try to play so that's good.
I still need to wire it up for blu tooth.
Add Chrome center dust covers to the speakers
Down the line I may work it into a 6 speaker system and cut the tweeter holes larger, get larger tweeters to be used as mid range and put tweeters where the mic's are above the tweeters.
I'm thinking of un-soldering the "Mic Mixing" potentiometer from the main broad and wiring it to the 2nd amp, right on the front of the radio. Currently in order to be able to adjust the 2nd amp, I need to have the VU's out to access the adjustment potentiometer. This would make performance adjusting easy as pie.
I want to add a small knob to the small PC Board potentiometer that Norm made for me that interfaces the old amp and the 2nd amp. I can adjusting it through a small hole I drilled in the back of the case with a screw driver, but not on the fly. Again, to make dialing the radio in easier.
[youtube]wEOmfiMDopw[/youtube]
OK, I will say with CONFIDENCE....I will battle ANY radio that runs on D cell batteries HEAD TO HEAD, stock or modified AS LONG AS it's not a ply wood car sub woofer.
BRING IT
Super work Chris 
. But if it makes you feel any better, the M90 didn't get fired up either 
