Issue with Telefunken Hifi Studio 1 power supply?

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spatterlight

New Member
So I just bused out to the boonies to chase a classified ad. Met the guy, bought his minty Telefunken Hifi Studio 1 for 90 bucks. He loaded it with batteries to demonstrate, cause we weren't near any power outlets -- everything worked fine, tape player was flawless, volume cranked, all that. Then he took his batteries out and I hauled the monster home on the bus. Only thing is, I can't get it working with house current. I'm just using a standard power cord with the right shaped plug, because the seller didn't provide one.

When I plug it in and hit the power button, I hear those little familiar "power up" popping noises from the speakers. I also hear them when I toggle the input between tape, AUX and radio. When I hold down the little switch that changes the top meter from displaying signal strength to battery level, the little needle goes to about 40%. But the lamps don't light and none of the blaster's functions work at all. Pretty much as if it's unplugged. No funky burning smells.

I would assume I need a transformer to give it 220v current, since it's a German model with mostly German writing, except that the sticker on the back reads "AC 120V / 60W".You can see that the sticker's been pasted over top of another sticker, and it reads "Sound Equipment Manufacturers / Don Mills, Ontario" on the top. I figured that SEM had changed out the power supply as a condition of selling it in Canada, or something, and put on a new sticker accordingly. (It doesn't look like a counterfeit sticker or anything. It's exactly the right size and shape, looks professionally printed, and all that.)

What do you figure? Do I need some kind of AC adapter? Or a transformer after all? Or is there maybe something wrong with the power supply internally?
 

Fatdog

Well-Known Member
Staff member
You should see a fuse somewhere in the back of the unit inserted into one of three slots. If the fuse is in the middle slot, it is set for 220V. Move the fuse to the furthest right slot and it should work (110V).
 

spatterlight

New Member
I actually can't see anything that looks like a fuse, though I don't know a ton about electronics. Here's the back of my funken. Does it have something to do with the two little recessed boxes in the top left?

(The speakers are sitting on my bed. I'm not quite green enough to buy a box without speakers.)

p1030673.jpg
 

Fatdog

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Hmmm, yours appears to factory 120V. Looks like you're gonna need to open it up and do some checking. :-/
 

spatterlight

New Member
I had a feeling this thing was too perfect. Ah well. I don't have much experience with fixing audio gear, just basic soldering, splicing and cleaning pots... any tips on what kind of problems I should be looking for? Or do you figure there's a fuse I can toggle on the inside? Thanks.
 

Fatdog

Well-Known Member
Staff member
spatterlight said:
Or do you figure there's a fuse I can toggle on the inside? Thanks.
That's exactly what I would be looking for. I know member Oldskool69 has a Studio 1 and he might be able to offer a lot more insight into your problem. But, hey, at least we know that it works using batteries. So, in the worst case scenario, it should work with a 12V DC adapter.

Try looking for a blown fuse first though. ;-)
 

baddboybill

Boomus Fidelis
It could also be the micro switch where the plug goes into rear of bbx for changing ac/dc...it could be dirty or rusted which may cause problem :hmmm:
 

spatterlight

New Member
Fatdog said:
spatterlight said:
Or do you figure there's a fuse I can toggle on the inside? Thanks.
That's exactly what I would be looking for. I know member Oldskool69 has a Studio 1 and he might be able to offer a lot more insight into your problem. But, hey, at least we know that it works using batteries. So, in the worst case scenario, it should work with a 12V DC adapter.

Try looking for a blown fuse first though. ;-)

I'll open it up tomorrow or the next day, yeah. Worst case scenario doesn't sound all that bad though. Here's a question, if I was going to find a 12v adapter, what would I be looking for in terms of amperage and polarity?
 

monchito

Boomus Fidelis
its done from inside ,, to change voltage to 120 you will have to move i belive the fuse on the 220 slot to the 120 slot ,, i belive iras was like this when he bought his the first time,,, it was a matter of switching a fuse around ,, if all the sticker are intact inside you will see the postion it needs to be in :yes: :yes: :yes: :-) :monchito:
 

oldskool69

Moderator
Staff member
I got your PM Spatterlight. Everyone here has you on the right track. Be very careful opening the unit up though. You will quiclky find out why this thing is a tank. It is not the typical flexible plastic casing, but a very stiff type mold compound. Also, the screws aren't very big. Aside from that, once you open up the back, you will easily see the fuse location. Tell us what you see from there regrding the fuse condition. Then we'll go from there.

You really want this baby to run on AC...DC is fine but you'll never get remotely close to what it's capable of. Even if you were to end up using a DC adapter, the amperage these produce in general would still starve it. You'll see why when you open it. The Studio 1 was never really intended to be a "boombox" in the sense the term represents, but it is one nonetheless. When you see the twin windings for the transformer and those Darlington IC's...well...


Think very nice small home reciever combo system. :-)
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
On DC, it runs on 12 volts.

On AC,, it gets 49 volts.

If the label in the rear says 120 volts, my guess is it's already been adjusted to 120 volt use.
 

oldskool69

Moderator
Staff member
Superduper said:
On DC, it runs on 12 volts.

On AC,, it gets 49 volts.

If the label in the rear says 120 volts, my guess is it's already been adjusted to 120 volt use.

I tend to agree but it may have been overseas. We'll never know the true lives of our boomers spent unless we bought it originally ourselves (eg: Tony) so he should start there. Hopefully it's that simple.

I know tons of people who bought equipment in the 'States with multi-voltage settings, went overseas, set it for the respective voltage of their location, bought a new piece of equipment, boxed the old one up without a second thought, came back to the 'States, pulled it out of storage and sold it as working as long as it appeared to come on because they "remembered' it working. This one may be lucky enough to be as simple as that. It was tested on batteries only so it's easily the first step to take. :-)

A good example of this are my two Sansui CP-7's. The silver was a European production code and set for 220v. The Black was a North American production code and set for 120v. Both came off the 'Bay. The guy who I bought the silver from (I got it before the black one) said he got it while stationed in Europe. In the description it stated the unit was working but there were no photo's of it in operation. I asked him about the voltage settings, sure enough, he said he remembered it working fine and didn't think of it. He replied to me that if I hadn't mentioned the voltage settings, he never would have looked. He left it right where it was when he came back to the 'States eight years after he bought it because he didn't use it anymore. He adjusted the voltage, checked it, verified with me it was good and now it sits on the top of my shelf next to the black one and both have the original voltage stickers. :-D
 

spatterlight

New Member
I've got the box open -- some pictures are attached. The two fuses visible (as far as I can tell, there are no other fuses in the box's guts) are both fine, I just tested their continuity.

If there's a way to set the voltage differently from inside, my guess is that it'd involve taking out one fuse and moving the other one to the center position. I don't want to do anything I'm not sure about though. I have a bunch of boomboxes downstairs as eBay stock, but this is the one I'm keeping for my "coolest things I've ever seen" collection.

While I'm at it, the cable running from the antennas doesn't connect to anything, and the end's obviously been snipped off. Unless I'm really off-base, it's supposed to snake out of the Telefunken's back, then plug into the antenna jacks. I've just never seen jacks that small. When I'm repairing it, do I need some special tips for the end of the cable, or will any straight pieces of wire do?

p1030675.jpg


p1030677.jpg


p1030678.jpg
 

skippy1969

Boomus Fidelis
I took the back off mt Studio1 and the fuses look the same as yours.
IMG_0102.jpg

And yes the antenna wire goes through the back panel and loops around into the plugin.
I replaced my wires as mine was in bad shape and too short from years of cutting and stripping.
IMG_0101.jpg
 

oldskool69

Moderator
Staff member
Here are some pics from my working and spare. See the fuse layout sticker that you guys don't have. (I'm sure others do.) Also, see the plug for the antenna which should be on each unit.

studio1fuselayout001.jpg


studio1fuselayout002.jpg


studio1fuselayout003.jpg


Your fuse layout is correct for North America. So now we need to start looking a little deeper... :hmmm:
 
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