Could someone please tell me what the E stands for on this unit... and the differences between that model and the others H, R, and Z
Thank you.
Thank you.
GF777 E
- Thread starter Jukie
- Start date
- Status
caution
Member (SA)
No suffix=Japan, Z=US/Asia(excluding Japan), E=UK, H=Europe, ZR=Russia
There are other suffixes but I don't know much about them. They refer to regional requirements such as power cord, power consumption rating, and language used on the carton and in the manual. Japan uses Japanese writing on the unit itself when everywhere else uses English.
The tuners probably have the most variation.
UK/Europe refers to AM as medium wave (MW)
UK/Europe has one shortwave band (5.95-18MHz) and one longwave (LW) band: 150-285KHz (148.5-285 in Europe)
Everywhere else has two shortwave bands (SW1=2.3-7.3MHz, SW2 =7.3-22MHz), but no longwave.
UK AM intermediate frequency (IF) is 465-468KHz, but everywhere else it's 455KHz
FM in Russia is 64-77MHz, Japan is 76-108MHz, and everywhere else it's 88-108MHz
There are other suffixes but I don't know much about them. They refer to regional requirements such as power cord, power consumption rating, and language used on the carton and in the manual. Japan uses Japanese writing on the unit itself when everywhere else uses English.
The tuners probably have the most variation.
UK/Europe refers to AM as medium wave (MW)
UK/Europe has one shortwave band (5.95-18MHz) and one longwave (LW) band: 150-285KHz (148.5-285 in Europe)
Everywhere else has two shortwave bands (SW1=2.3-7.3MHz, SW2 =7.3-22MHz), but no longwave.
UK AM intermediate frequency (IF) is 465-468KHz, but everywhere else it's 455KHz
FM in Russia is 64-77MHz, Japan is 76-108MHz, and everywhere else it's 88-108MHz
Thank you for that detailed response.
I have seen H and Z for sale on a number of occasions but not an E, and nowhere could I find one for sale or any info on the GF777E. I have now come by one and when the unit came to me the decks were muffled and chewing tapes like they are going out of fashion! So, living through the time frame when tapes first came out, i'd never taken a cassette player apart, they've only ever needed a head cleaner and away it goes. Anyway, I thought I would have a go at servicing this and I've done the 5 belts and the pinch rollers, demagnetised the heads and re-aligned... both decks play and sound amazing! The one thing that still needs to be addressed is the fwd/rev both decks feel like they have plenty of pull and that the new belts are gripping... so maybe this could be that my cassettes are 40 years old and just deteriorated and maybe it's time to acquire some new ones?
Thank you again for your reply!
The model I have has 1/4 Jacks at the front below the speakers and RCA/ Phono in & out on the rear.
Thank you.
No, I only cleaned the wheels... So, yes you're right, because that rubber too will be 40 years old. i've seen the new ones can be bought... £50 Can the rubber be replaced on the old wheels though, instead of buying the complete thing... or can I just change the tyre?
Yes, I should have really paid a bit more attention to those wheels...D'oh! I've just sorted out a 1951 Rock Ola same problem, although the drive wheel is direct to the fly wheel. the rubber wheel was glazed but i was able to spin it and apply abrasion and keep its shape, and as you might guess those wheels don't exist. So, that's the next thing to do and see how I get on... I'm getting used to taking this thing to pieces! Lol
Thanks again.
- Status