Blu... It's similar and yes, you watnt the solvent to wick, but be careful with the syringe (see caution below). Cuz usually, it doesn't just drip out -- it will shoot out like a firehose when the bottle is inverted unless you create a vacumm in the bottle.
You need either the green acrylic cement or IPS #3. The IPS is the name brand and the green acrylic cement is Tap Plastics house brand, probably IPS #3 generic.
You also need the BD-25 syringe. This stuff is very thin -- thinner than water, and thinner than alcohol.
There is several ways to do this. First off, you need to be really careful. Second, this stuff will damage paint so if used on exterior, keep in mind that you're gonna need to touch up or repaint if you use this on exterior surfaces and want a perfect finish. For broken screw towers or case backs, you usually won't need to repaint. This solvent will melt plastic almost immediately so if you accidentally squirt it over places you don't want damaged, it will not end well. Wait a day before screwing the screws back in. Be patient and quit goofing with it while setting.
(1) Use a Q-tip and apply to both surfaces to be joined, then immediately press them together and hold for a couple minutes. Then continue. It won't reach full strength for 24 hours or so but in 1/2 - 1 hour, it will feel pretty strong and hold well. Just don't stress it. The solvent softens and melts the plastic and full strength is not there until it all evaporates. Once dry, should be as strong as the original virgin product. While the product is pressed together, keep in mind that if you press hard, melted plastic will ooze out at the seam. This probably gives you the best strength as it ensures the two parts are melded together. But if you feel this is unsightly, then don't put undue pressure to prevent the oozeing. Anyhow, on case backs, it almost looks like a casting seam. When wet, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT smear the seam or attempt to wipe off. Because believe it or not, it will NOT wipe clean and will smear instead. Far better to let it dry and then trim, shave or rub off the seam when it is partially dry.
(2) Dip and stick method. I frequently use this with screw towers or small pieces that broke off. With tweezers or needle nose pliers, I grip the piece after test fitting and dip the edges into the solvent, then immediately place it until it's stable enough to continue.
(3) Use syringe. First off, fill the bottle about 1/4 to 1/3 way. Do not put too much in because I noticed that old solvent stored in the bottle loses some of it's strength when it's been in the bottle too long. Like weeks. Then join the pieces together. Now this is the hard part -- practice makes perfect..... Squeeze out much of the air and invert the bottle with the needle at the seam. You don't need to squeeze hard, more like just preventing the bottle from expanding, and the solvent can be controlled/dripped along the seam. The reason for squeezing out the air is to create vacuum in the bottle to prevent the solvent from spraying out like a fire hose. If you simply invert the bottle, it WILL spray out naturally at great force. Remember, this stuff is far far thinner than water or even alcohol. This is how they use to dispense solvent onto acrylic aquarium seams, and other similar projects. But small piecs on boomboxes makes this a much more delicate procedure.
Anyhow, all I can say is that this all takes practice. It yields the best repair but does require some skill since it's not slow setting like "glue". The last thing I want to say is remember that there are no fillers. It really is a solvent that melts the plastic thereby chemically "welding" the parts together. So ill fitting parts won't repair well since when the solvent evaporates -- it's gone and no voids will be filled. Still, it's possible to repair even when chunks or bits are missing by filling and sanding with bondo or glazing putty after the repair.
:annoyed: 
. That would bring my total price with shipping to $20-$25. Why do they have to do that?94WbSw~~_3.JPG)
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