Conion C100 tape door glass spec
- Thread starter CSI
- Start date
- Status
caution
Member (SA)
Here's my first look at it... overall it is 127.9 by 74.4 mm. The sides rise up 2.2 mm and then go up 1.7 mm and in 1.7 mm, forming 45-degree facets along the sides. so the door is mostly 3.9 mm thick.
Those side facets meet up with one along the top. It's at a shallower angle though, because it goes in 3.6 mm instead. Once that facet drops 1.7 mm and makes the top edge of the door, it only goes 0.8 mm.
So, now you have gone 0.8mm back into the box from the top edge of the door, that 0.8mm surface is a little ridge. It turns 90 degrees downward for 0.8mm as well, before taking another 90, this time towards the back of the box, by 6.5 mm. This is a 1.4 mm thick flap that has two rectangular holes in it for locating tabs in the main door frame.
Those side facets meet up with one along the top. It's at a shallower angle though, because it goes in 3.6 mm instead. Once that facet drops 1.7 mm and makes the top edge of the door, it only goes 0.8 mm.
So, now you have gone 0.8mm back into the box from the top edge of the door, that 0.8mm surface is a little ridge. It turns 90 degrees downward for 0.8mm as well, before taking another 90, this time towards the back of the box, by 6.5 mm. This is a 1.4 mm thick flap that has two rectangular holes in it for locating tabs in the main door frame.
caution
Member (SA)
Yeah it's a single piece, injection molded. The only gluing is for the aluminum panel on it.
I'm not sure it would be worth trying to make it identical, that would be a big challenge. It has a pretty detailed backside with the spots for all the clips and so forth, it would be a bit of work to draw in a 3D space. Even if someone wanted to 3D print it, I doubt clear acrylic is an option.
I'm not sure it would be worth trying to make it identical, that would be a big challenge. It has a pretty detailed backside with the spots for all the clips and so forth, it would be a bit of work to draw in a 3D space. Even if someone wanted to 3D print it, I doubt clear acrylic is an option.
That makes it a whole lot trickier. 3D printing could be an option, there's a product used, Veroclear that might do the job
My tape door is missing the tabs on the bottom, which is probably why the glass is missing in the first place. I guess that would mean i'd need to glue at the bottom part to attach.
My tape door is missing the tabs on the bottom, which is probably why the glass is missing in the first place. I guess that would mean i'd need to glue at the bottom part to attach.
caution
Member (SA)
Or you could glue something to the plexiglass like a nylon screw and fasten it through the tab holes with a washer, so it can be removed.
I stopped by TAP Plastics today with my cracked dial window and didn't even think about bringing the door piece. I need to go back there next Saturday so maybe I'll see if their fabrication department will give that it more consideration than the dial window.
Here's an early drawing I did for the door trim, I put the specs for the lower part of the glass in the upper right.
I stopped by TAP Plastics today with my cracked dial window and didn't even think about bringing the door piece. I need to go back there next Saturday so maybe I'll see if their fabrication department will give that it more consideration than the dial window.
Here's an early drawing I did for the door trim, I put the specs for the lower part of the glass in the upper right.
- Status