C100 Tape run module bushing repair

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Transistorized

Transistorized

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Today I decided to try and repair my slow rewind and fast-forward issue after installing a new tape run belt. I repaired my tape run module bushing with a brass wall hanging kit. Pictures show the whole thing. Works really well and now my Rewind and FF progress is back to where it was before :-)

20180316_154151.jpg20180316_145235.jpg20180316_145708.jpg

Thanks to Caution for reminding me about this causing poor searching performance ;-)

I added a tiny dab of expoxy just to keep it from coming loose and falling off as it wears on the brass bushing. The tension of the belt working against the hook clamping on the side of the module holds it in place quite nicely.

I think using brass is going to work great. It wont wear out the metal spindle and I have plenty wall hanging brass thingies...lol

I just love it when I can keep something alive.
 
Superduper

Superduper

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Hmm. Do you have a photo of the other side? I can't picture what that clip is doing on the reverse side.
 
Transistorized

Transistorized

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Superduper said:
Hmm. Do you have a photo of the other side? I can't picture what that clip is doing on the reverse side.
Click to expand...
Hi Norm. Not a thing...lol

This is actually just straightening the shaft by pulling the rear spindle against the tension of the belt. The bushing on the pulley side is most likely equally worn. This simple procedure seems to have solved the issue I was having so I decided to stop there.

The dragging was caused by the angle of the shaft which causes the plastic pulley turned by the belt to rub on the housing. The act of straightening the shaft by pulling the rear shaft against the tension of the belt reduces the angle, stops the rubbing and restores the Rewind and FF performance.
 
J

jimmyjimmy19702010

Member (SA)
I doubt that would be brass - more like steel with brass coloured coating. The shaft is probably a harder material though so you should be ok.

Nice idea for a fix. :-)
 
Superduper

Superduper

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So... the shaft spins and it's going to be riding on that picture hanger? A better option would be to see if trommelmops can rig up an actual brass or bronze piece drilled to the size of that shaft so that it can be a true bushing. Like Jimmy said, the picture hanger is probably steel.
 
Transistorized

Transistorized

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Superduper said:
So... the shaft spins and it's going to be riding on that picture hanger?
Click to expand...
That's correct sir. I've seen this process used for clocks when the brass plate pilot hole gets worn. It's a lazy mans way of doing things but it will work in a pinch. The proper way ( as you mentioned) is to drill one size larger and insert a bronze or brass bushing and press that into place. Although with this its plastic and circuit board material versus a brass plate that the spindle goes through. You can tell that whoever designed this module didn't expect it to be used for 30 + years..or me ;-)

You guys are correct about the metal hanger. Looking at the pieces I cut it looks as if these are coated. It is very soft metal though. You can bend it with your fingers. I'm okay with it as long as it doesn't cut a groove in the spindle. As a precaution I did apply a light drop of synthetic clock oil to help with friction. That shaft rotates relatively slow and it took 30 years to wear out a plastic bushing so I am hoping this will be a forever fix where the whole box will be worn out before the tape run indicator.

I'm sure the carbon traces are wearing thin as well. I'm starting to get slight flickering of the Run LED's. But I'm going to enjoy and run this thing into the ground...my amp chips never get below 90 degrees :-)
 
Superduper

Superduper

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Transistorized said:
So... the shaft spins and it's going to be riding on that picture hanger?
Click to expand...
That shaft rotates relatively slow and it took 30 years to wear out a plastic bushing so I am hoping this will be a forever fix where the whole box will be worn out before the tape run indicator.

I'm sure the carbon traces are wearing thin as well. I'm starting to get slight flickering of the Run LED's. But I'm going to enjoy and run this thing into the ground...my amp chips never get below 90 degrees :-)
Click to expand...
Ok, so thats another time you are mentioning this carbon trace thing. Is that a real thing in that it's something that affects many C100s? Should we look into getting some PCB's made up? If you give me the dimensions, I can design it on my PCB software and see about getting some made up.
 
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