A few i`ve restored recently

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stynger007

Member (SA)
JVC RC-550 - parts rolling inside from cassette deck , rebuilt it, gutted , fitted with blue leds -switch on or off by the beat/cut switch after traces were disabled on circuit board . Totally reversible by polishing traces and connecting same.

Candle JTR 1287 was dead. No power. Wasn`t the fuse. Circuit board was cracked at power button, reconnected broken traces . Deck had a broken limit switch and a burned motor that was stuck by the faulty cassette mechanism being engaged, so owner left it on and didn`t know it was using line in and radio. Fashioned a replacement limit switch from parts i had here and got the deck functioning after cleaning the goo off the assembly. Replaced the motor , belts and happy owner.

The Clairtone 7975 was an anomaly. The switch for tape/radio/line in and the deck needed excessive attention , it took several sprays and patience , unfortunately the line in position never came back. Suggested the cassette that pops in, press play and pause, and connect the stereo input lead to your auxiliary source. The battery saver feature basically cuts power to about 40% to preserve battery life. The same can be done by turning down the bass. Cool idea nonetheless.

The Lasonic TRC-920 , owner brought 2 , a European parts machine and a North American. Lasonics were classic for variance in colours, brownish to grey. The European power supply was swapped in because the grey back panel allowed fitment , the face was near mint on the European, fortunately the plugs were the same.

On Deck, have a Sony CFS-99 for deck rebuild and leds in white in meters, red in tuner dial and green in tweeters. A Clairtone 7978 one channel dead , line in not working.

Here`s some pics in no particular order.
 

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stynger007

Member (SA)
JVC RC-550 - parts rolling inside from cassette deck , rebuilt it, gutted , fitted with blue leds -switch on or off by the beat/cut switch after traces were disabled on circuit board . Totally reversible by polishing traces and connecting same.

Candle JTR 1287 was dead. No power. Wasn`t the fuse. Circuit board was cracked at power button, reconnected broken traces . Deck had a broken limit switch and a burned motor that was stuck by the faulty cassette mechanism being engaged, so owner left it on and didn`t know it was using line in and radio. Fashioned a replacement limit switch from parts i had here and got the deck functioning after cleaning the goo off the assembly. Replaced the motor , belts and happy owner.

The Clairtone 7975 was an anomaly. The switch for tape/radio/line in and the deck needed excessive attention , it took several sprays and patience , unfortunately the line in position never came back. Suggested the cassette that pops in, press play and pause, and connect the stereo input lead to your auxiliary source. The battery saver feature basically cuts power to about 40% to preserve battery life. The same can be done by turning down the bass. Cool idea nonetheless.

The Lasonic TRC-920 , owner brought 2 , a European parts machine and a North American. Lasonics were classic for variance in colours, brownish to grey. The European power supply was swapped in because the grey back panel allowed fitment , the face was near mint on the European, fortunately the plugs were the same.

On Deck, have a Sony CFS-99 for deck rebuild and leds in white in meters, red in tuner dial and green in tweeters. A Clairtone 7978 one channel dead , line in not working.

Here`s some pics in no particular order.
The CFS-99 is a tank! Deck clickity click, opened a complete can of worms.. started with belts, and mechanism would not retract enough to allow loading or ejecting cassette. Found a small black retainer push on pin with a half moon cutaway. Found it needed to be reinstalled on an angle, pressed into place and turned 90 degrees to allow travel of the mechanism - (the record and playback head) These decks are a 3 step process, need to unsolder 4 wires one from a limit switch , remove the circuit board and the switch , then remove the metal plate at the rear to access gears and capstan. After a few tries of dissassembly and reassembly complete with resoldering connections, it was easier to remove the deck completely , leave the circuit board off and press buttons and manually feed the outside belt until the mechanism locked in. Well, it locked, but the mechanism still would not retract enough when pressing stop to allow load/eject. Removed the main drive that is spring loaded and guess what. The spring went flying. Ugh. After some searching with a magnetic flashlight , miraculously it appeared. The proper tension is paramount with these. With the compression spring disconnected , the floating drive wheel that engages the capstan as a drive makes contact with the take up reel was now out of the way. Pressed play, manually feeding the outside belt locked in place and with the drive wheel out of the way, the mechanism returned to it`s natural position, and would allow eject and load. What to do? Reinstall that spring and the drive wheel, and try to place a foreign spring from the small hole to the left side of the record head to force it down when stop is pressed. Attached the spring to the small round bar that holds the cassette keys in place and the mechanism pulled hard to the left and put the heads out of whack. Back to the drawing board. Removed spring, and looking in the box , found 2 ball bearings. Wth? At the top of the mechanism there is a small outboard on the metal and a groove in the plastic underneath. The ball bearings were replaced . Thought I had it now, but even after install of ball bearings, wouldn`t disengage enough to allow load and eject. Ugh. 12 hours in . Reduce tension of drive spring? Or, file a touch of metal that would allow the drive gear to assume it`s natural position . Filed a touch , compression spring on main drive engaged, when pressing stop heads would still not drop down to allow sufficient removal of cassette. Placed a spring under the playback head to a rod underneath, and the heads were dropping just enough to allow eject. Reinstalled eject mechanism , pressed play and the tape was warbly. Pressed in on the top of the cassette door, and the warble stopped. Noticed part of the eject mechanism was jutting too far out to successfully close the door to maintain head alignment- it was dragging against the tape path. Tried to match azimuth to no avail. Reinstalled the inner face of the cassette well , and there were 2 screws holes it in. Too far away from where pressure needed to be applied on the eject mechanism. Bent down the left rectangular plate, reinstalled, still warbly. Removed, added an extra bend further in. Replaced inner face.Pressure on the eject was the answer. Door was now closing and warbling disappeared. One happy CFS-99 owner.

What a deck these Sony`s have, remember redoing a Sony CFS-9000 and the there were no plugs, all super thin wires. A few twist and turns, and wires came off. Pictures are important at many angles to assure a successful repair. Sony decks are so finicky but awesome when they work.
 

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stynger007

Member (SA)
Very good! Candles and Clairtones, so I'm guessing you're in Canada?
Correct , Can you answer, is Citizen ( I have a Citizen JTR-1270) a product only available in US? The Clairtone 7980 akas, Helix 4635, Conion CF-100 , the 100 was US, not sure where the Helix was available? Had both the C-100 and 4635. Only if I would have given more thought before thinning collection. Sighhhh....
 

stynger007

Member (SA)
Ok, after many many hours (no exaggerating) the eject was an anomaly. Saw a CFS-77 for sale on kijiji a few days ago, and it was missing the cover plate underneath the cassette door. The 99 project had a bizarre issue .. pressing in on that exact metal band that shows what the cassette buttons do , was slightly out on the left side. Pressing it in, the eject worked with no binding, Before you pass judgment, we are talking a 1 millimeter differential. They were that tight with engineering. Too bad the 99 was only available in 1981, but if you have the chance and find one that`s working, it is precision engineering with strict tolerances, including dismantling the deck for rebuild. Spring tension everywhere in the 99 is specific. Tweaks and tolerances test the patients of any tech. But when you find the sweet spot, the reward far outweighs the labor. Here are a couple pics of the 99, with leds installed .The white led strip above the meters with a blue background are legible but pic shows otherwise. What should She be named? DSC_1815.JPGDSC_1816.JPG
 

Brutus442

Member (SA)
Correct , Can you answer, is Citizen ( I have a Citizen JTR-1270) a product only available in US? The Clairtone 7980 akas, Helix 4635, Conion CF-100 , the 100 was US, not sure where the Helix was available? Had both the C-100 and 4635. Only if I would have given more thought before thinning collection. Sighhhh....

As a fellow Canadian , I can say both Candle and Citizen were sold here. As a matter of fact, the now defunct Consumers Distributing stores carried both name model lines ( they were one of the few)

Most boomboxes sold by them were Candle though, while the TV's and VCR etc were generally Citizen
 

Zaki

New Member
Pressed in on the top of the cassette door, and the warble stopped. Noticed part of the eject mechanism was jutting too far out to successfully close the door to maintain head alignment- it was dragging against the tape path. Tried to match azimuth to no avail. Reinstalled the inner face of the cassette well , and there were 2 screws holes it in. Too far away from where pressure needed to be applied on the eject mechanism. Bent down the left rectangular plate, reinstalled, still warbly. Removed, added an extra bend further in. Replaced inner face.Pressure on the eject was the answer. Door was now closing and warbling disappeared. One happy CFS-99 owner.

Hi, thank you for the great work and photos. When you say you bent the left rectangular plate down, did you do it inwards or outward (to the left)? I'm having a similar issue with my cfs-99. I had to remove the two springs that allow for the door to open on eject so that i have a better tape alignment when the door is closed. The obvious drawback is that I have to use my hands to get the door open.
Appreciate it,
 
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