Ok, I've been wanting for some time to build some amplifier modules to stuff into wimpy boomboxes, that have potential. You know the ones -- big, 8" woofers, cavernous shells -- wimpy sound.
So itching to make a few, I just finished building this guy.
I start out with some new sheets of aluminum bar and some recycled angle bracket. Five, count 'em (5) Thermalloy high efficiency Heatsinks, stainless steel torx retainers, tapped holes in the aluminum bars, and then nyloc nuts to secure the heatsinks.
The amp module is the Toshiba TA-8210AH module. It was test fitted to ensure proper clearance and to mark the mounting holes that will be drilled and tapped.
What I did not show was the assembly of the electronic components. Hard to photograph and handle soldering iron at the same time. Anyhow, once all the componets were installed, the chip plugged into the board, and mounted onto the heatsink before final soldering.
Once assembled, it was hooked up to a set of aiwa cheapy component speakers I bought from goodwill. They are very inefficient and do distort way before the 200watts max it claims to be able to handle.
They do produce decent tight bass but that's it. I did not video it but afterwards, I retested using a set of Sony APM-950 bookshelf speakers which handle 40 nominal, 80w max. And with those speakers, the sound was far improved, sound was painfully loud and distortion far reduced, even with the 60% lower advertised power handling rating 
. Before watching the video, keep in mind that the digital camera (not a true video camera) was shot about 12 - 16" away so much of the distortion heard was due to the camera pickups being saturated far earlier than actual distortion. Since there is no way to capture the true dynamic loudness and range with my all purpose digital camera, you 'll just have to take my word for it that this guy can crank (depending on input signal strength). Anyhow, I would say it's easily louder than C100 and cleaner sound too. Hard to say what the results will be when inside the boombox however, since it really depends upon how clean the signals from the preamp is that will be passed to the amp.
This thing measures 6.5" long. If we go with less sinking -- the module can be made a bit smaller.
I will be making 4 total. I have this one and another one exactly the same size/shape ready made. 2 more will be built shortly. If anyone wants one to play with, I am offering them for $59 ready to install. Will be tested, cabled, and hookup instructions will be provided. YOU must be able to do some basic soldering and able to be figure out where to find proper taps to make connections for your particular boombox. I might make more on a larger scale if there is enough interest but don't count on it.
Specs:
Main Amplifier module: Toshiba TA-8210AH
Power requirements // operating range: 12 to 18 volts
Output type: Bridged (BTL)
Output power: 22wpc RMS (approx) at 10% THD into 4-ohms @ 14.4 volts.
Output power: 19wpc RMS (approx) at 10% THD into 4-ohms @ 13.2 volts.
Only .04% THD @13.2volts, f=1khz, P-out=1w, and R-Load @ 4ohms.
Connections:
(1) Power VCC+
(2) Ground (-)
(3) Inputs L and R (+/-)
(4) Outputs L and R (+/-) floating ground -- do not ground together or to system ground.
(5) Optional -- power on hard switched with power connection, or alternate standby remote power on (recommended).
That's it. IF you are skilled enough to make those connections, YOU can install this yourself.
PM if interested.
[youtube]ufZPP1hVFRU[/youtube]
So itching to make a few, I just finished building this guy.
I start out with some new sheets of aluminum bar and some recycled angle bracket. Five, count 'em (5) Thermalloy high efficiency Heatsinks, stainless steel torx retainers, tapped holes in the aluminum bars, and then nyloc nuts to secure the heatsinks.
The amp module is the Toshiba TA-8210AH module. It was test fitted to ensure proper clearance and to mark the mounting holes that will be drilled and tapped.
What I did not show was the assembly of the electronic components. Hard to photograph and handle soldering iron at the same time. Anyhow, once all the componets were installed, the chip plugged into the board, and mounted onto the heatsink before final soldering.
Once assembled, it was hooked up to a set of aiwa cheapy component speakers I bought from goodwill. They are very inefficient and do distort way before the 200watts max it claims to be able to handle.
They do produce decent tight bass but that's it. I did not video it but afterwards, I retested using a set of Sony APM-950 bookshelf speakers which handle 40 nominal, 80w max. And with those speakers, the sound was far improved, sound was painfully loud and distortion far reduced, even with the 60% lower advertised power handling rating . Before watching the video, keep in mind that the digital camera (not a true video camera) was shot about 12 - 16" away so much of the distortion heard was due to the camera pickups being saturated far earlier than actual distortion. Since there is no way to capture the true dynamic loudness and range with my all purpose digital camera, you 'll just have to take my word for it that this guy can crank (depending on input signal strength). Anyhow, I would say it's easily louder than C100 and cleaner sound too. Hard to say what the results will be when inside the boombox however, since it really depends upon how clean the signals from the preamp is that will be passed to the amp.This thing measures 6.5" long. If we go with less sinking -- the module can be made a bit smaller.
I will be making 4 total. I have this one and another one exactly the same size/shape ready made. 2 more will be built shortly. If anyone wants one to play with, I am offering them for $59 ready to install. Will be tested, cabled, and hookup instructions will be provided. YOU must be able to do some basic soldering and able to be figure out where to find proper taps to make connections for your particular boombox. I might make more on a larger scale if there is enough interest but don't count on it.
Specs:
Main Amplifier module: Toshiba TA-8210AH
Power requirements // operating range: 12 to 18 volts
Output type: Bridged (BTL)
Output power: 22wpc RMS (approx) at 10% THD into 4-ohms @ 14.4 volts.
Output power: 19wpc RMS (approx) at 10% THD into 4-ohms @ 13.2 volts.
Only .04% THD @13.2volts, f=1khz, P-out=1w, and R-Load @ 4ohms.
Connections:
(1) Power VCC+
(2) Ground (-)
(3) Inputs L and R (+/-)
(4) Outputs L and R (+/-) floating ground -- do not ground together or to system ground.
(5) Optional -- power on hard switched with power connection, or alternate standby remote power on (recommended).
That's it. IF you are skilled enough to make those connections, YOU can install this yourself.
PM if interested.
[youtube]ufZPP1hVFRU[/youtube]
:superduper:
AND look virtually the same too.