Sharp GF-9494 woes

Linz

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Aug 10, 2020
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Hi all, checked all posts before posting this one, looking for some advice for this box of potential booms.. in return I've been taking photos and notes and intend to write up and post a strip-down, minor service, repair, reassembly and restoration post for it, could be useful for someone one day!

I rescued it from a skip from next door, with permission, but it had spent a night outside. Left it in a warm room for a couple of days and opened it to check for moisture before powering up.

Downloaded the service manual, which is sublime.

On power up everything was working but the volume is very attenuated on both channels, from both the radio and tape deck, and this is its problem.

Also with the volume sliders set high-ish to max, mode selector switch set to high and tone controls set to mid, the integrated speakers start 'fizzing' rather than clipping (still very low vol), the same happens listening to both the headphone socket and when connecting external speakers. There is also the same 50Hz mains hum at this 'elevated' volume level at all outputs. Both VU meters look equal in signal and gain.

On @docs advice from my intro post, internals were blown through to expel dust and detritus, all the pots, sliders, external audio connectors, record bar etc were cleaned in-situ with a quick dry contact cleaner, actuated lots and lots of times and left to dry - from the circuit schematics it's clear that any external connectors are connected in switch-over configurations, so it's important that these are all clean although they all look clear and clean of oxidisation already.

Using the service manual I stripped Ginny the GF down (by this time we'd spent considerable time together getting intimate so it only seemed right to assign a moniker) to get access to the circuit assembly. Component side there are no leaky or bulging electrolytic capacitors, no silicon burning signs or smells, no sign of ingress etc and the same on the solder side - no signs of pcb cracks or dry solder joint's and all the conductive tracks look good.

Reassembled and she does sound better and more crisp than when I started, but still with the same low level volume.

I looked at the power supply output at the pcb end next on an oscilloscope - bearing in mind the mains hum and the attenuated speaker volumes being the same on both channels. This was an expected 15.5 - 16 volts dc with about a 200mV ripple, seemed reasonable. Without immediate access to a pile of D cell batteries I happened to have a decent quality 2.5 amp switch mode psu, so disconnected the ac mains supply and clipped the external psu to the back of the dc input connector on Ginny, exactly the same poor results.

So the issue HAS to be related to a block directly connected to both channels, hence suspecting the power supply. I guess the next port of call is checking supply rails and bias voltages to all the IC's and transistors on the 'scope rather than the DMM. On the plus side whoever designed its function, form and assembly was a genius - such a pleasure to work on and has to be something simple!

Thanks for reading this far, any suggestions gratefully received.

Linz
 

Fatdog

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Just to clarify, when you cleaned the pots and sliders, did you simply remove the caps and spray cleaner down into the cracks or was the box disassembled and you sprayed into proper locations? I only ask because some folks don't understand, and we can never assume. Generally, Sharp boomboxes have issues with the record bar more than other brands (in my experience) and that would have been the first place that I would look.

Test with batteries when you can, and if you still have issues, definitely start checking voltages and whatnot from the mains plug input and then check the output from the power supply.

Hey, I just thought of something. Sometimes the mains input socket can get corroded also. Give that a thorough cleaning before testing.
 
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hopey

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I have one with similar issues. I remember reading that this issue can be a result of poor solder connections on the mainboard pre amp. You have to do a complete tear down to access. Additionally you will probably need to service the side pots by removing from pcb and clean the contact surfaces by hand. Then you can strt work on the tape mech you need that special idler tyre and capstan shaft rubber, Good luck.
 
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Linz

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Aug 10, 2020
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Thank you for some great pointers and tips gus, will try these.

@Fat dog yes I stripped it all down to gain proper access and spent quite a long time on the record bar - it started out as feeling scratchy and a bit stiff and now feels smooth when actuated. Good point re: the mains socket, output from the psu looks very good though.

@hope, thank you, I will try these too. I thought the same about the slide pots, looks like I'll have to fire up the old lazer 3000 soldering iron :-)
 

docs

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When you say volume is attenuated on both radio and tape, is it the same on line input too?
To rule out the volume slider or any other pots I would test their resistance. Often the traces become worn and this will show, use each slider to test against the other to see if any stand out. Ofcourse, the ones where the audio travels are suspects.
Do the voltages at the power amp and amplifier stages look good? Do they change when the audio level drops?
 

Linz

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Aug 10, 2020
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Hi docs, not tried the phono input so far.. will check the slider resistances and and amplifier voltages too.
The reason for concentrating on those components common to both channels first is the extremely close match in attenuation between the left and right channels, where the VU meters are displaying output's to expected levels.

Thanks again guys, most grateful
 

hopey

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Dec 28, 2014
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Hi docs, not tried the phono input so far.. will check the slider resistances and and amplifier voltages too.
The reason for concentrating on those components common to both channels first is the extremely close match in attenuation between the left and right channels, where the VU meters are displaying output's to expected levels.

Thanks again guys, most grateful
mine does the same thing please let us know if you find the problem.
 

Linz

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Aug 10, 2020
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I will do of course, but it's when, not if :-D (eternally optomistic) :-D I've a niggling feeling it could be the power amp chips, checked and they are still available which is great.
 

docs

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It sounds to me like a cap issue but as you say, you need to find the common component between channels.
I would look around the muting circuit too, a failed cap or transistor common to both channels could be found in there.
To eliminate the main audio output, inject a signal from amp through to power amp, working backwards where you may find somewhere the signal does not get through.
 
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hopey

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While I think of it the Record Side Pots are interchangeable for the Volume Pots if you get stuck.
 

Linz

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Aug 10, 2020
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Wales
Hi all. Sorry for the delay in updates, my work shift patterns and hours are completely insane so only just got back to it.

I only gone and fixed Ginny the GF-9494!!

@hopey - bear with me, or jump to the end :-)

Stripped the whole unit down, again, so tape deck out and PWB/supporting plastic frame work removed from the rear panel of the enclosure. This time I used a loupe magnifier and a good light just to go through each and every solder joint on the back of the PWB's to check for fractured or open circuit solder joints. There were half a dozen as it turned out and from my experience in through-hole pcb assembly back in the dim and distant past, these were mostly from the day of manufacture.

One area to note here!! The record bar, SW1, had fractured solder joints at the actuated end of the switch. The first pair (one at the top, one at the bottom of the rows) are the switch housing solder joints, ie the ones that physically hold it to the board, the second pair are switch contacts. So these had failed as a result of physical stress and would always be worth checking.

Put it all back together having re-soldered all dry joints (with good old fashioned leaded solder), still the same really but with slightly higher volume and a little less fizz than before.

Lifted the the function selector PWB and it's bank of function switches from the top of the case next because actuating the toggle switches (whilst the radio was selected) and specifically the 3 way mode selector switch, were all exhibiting some odd little pops and crackles through the speakers.

There is a multi-way wire loom going to this board, some of which it turns out are single core for various reasons. The one in the photo's is a red with white trace which looking at the circuit diagram delivers a common rail from T101 &102 on the main board up to the loudness SW107, this had barely any solder.

I'd not appreciated this was going to be so loud! Awesome. Knowing what I now know, first port of call @hopey would be checking all the single core wires for breaks in their length's and their solder joints at the pwbs.. also open circuits on that record bar.

Off to the garage again to try a tape :-)
 

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