It is amazing that someone made a list. This is something that one would get if they worked for the manufacturer. I clear up the list a little but cannot post it in its present format. So, I will print it out and scan it back into computer as a PDF and see it I can post that.
Conion C100 resto
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The size dimension Is not for the lead spacing I believe it is for the width of the capacitor.
Those are indeed the diameters of the capacitors, not the lead pitch. I was much more concerned about the size of the cap itself so I knew it would actually fit into the existing space; leads can be bent to accomodate different hole spacings. Fortunately over the years electrolytics have become smaller for the same value, so I had no issues with space.
I used a link shortener at the time because the DigiKey URLs were a mile long, but even if I used the original link, it still would be dead for a couple of reasons. 1. It's been nearly 9 years since I did this and Digikey's URL format has changed, and 2. Nichicon has ceased making their UFG "Fine Gold" series in 5mm and 6.3mm cans, possibly more, so it would be impossible to source about half of my list.
To be honest though, my recap was overkill and you'd likely be fine only replacing decoupling and audio path caps. Which family of electrolytics and which manufacturer is up to you. Nowadays general purpose caps may be equivalent enough to use in the audio path than audio-grade caps but you might want to research that. There is a lot of info on Audiokarma.
I used a link shortener at the time because the DigiKey URLs were a mile long, but even if I used the original link, it still would be dead for a couple of reasons. 1. It's been nearly 9 years since I did this and Digikey's URL format has changed, and 2. Nichicon has ceased making their UFG "Fine Gold" series in 5mm and 6.3mm cans, possibly more, so it would be impossible to source about half of my list.
To be honest though, my recap was overkill and you'd likely be fine only replacing decoupling and audio path caps. Which family of electrolytics and which manufacturer is up to you. Nowadays general purpose caps may be equivalent enough to use in the audio path than audio-grade caps but you might want to research that. There is a lot of info on Audiokarma.
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Yes, I am sure my recap will be overkill too as is my order. This attachment is the list of capacitors I bought from Digikey. It is in a PDF file. When I selected these capacitors I filtered them with Audio. I tried to stay with the lowest leakage current for both 60 Hz and 10K HZ. I believed I only chose one capacitor size bigger than you had and two other capacitor smaller than you had. All these are available as of today. The PDF file one will have to go to view and rotate is as it is landscape view.
Caution I want to thank you for the list it sure made my life easier.
Of course, I forgot the 1uF capacitors. I guess when one gets old one forgets. The one micro farad caps I could not find in 50V so I order the 100V.
Wow, i was reading this thread thinking it was from this week or something, then i looked at the date and realised it was from 10 years ago.. It was a Good Read though.. I have to Ask.. Hey Caution, Have you kept the Conion or did you move it on some years later ? i'm just curious what happened to it.. Awesome Job By the Way. Great Work you Did on That
Damn man i just looked at Crusty 100, You did an Amazing job with that, that was a mess and you brought it back. crazy skills.
Change the first ten electrolytics on the In-out board. Used wire braid to desolder old caps. Went really well. It will take me a while to change all of them as I have two other projects going. I do not have an Oscope to troubleshoot the problem with the left speaker coming on and going out. I figure I will change all the electrolytic caps and see if that cures problem. If it does not then my brother will have to find someone that can troubleshoot the problem with the right equipment. At least all the electrolytic caps will be new.
I am hoping that one of the electrolytics on the balance adjust are bad and causing this problem. The potentiometer does not seem to be causing the problem. However, I have not desolder it to measure it as I don't believe that is a good troubleshooting procedure. It is much better to have the equipment and locate exactly where the problem is.
I am hoping that one of the electrolytics on the balance adjust are bad and causing this problem. The potentiometer does not seem to be causing the problem. However, I have not desolder it to measure it as I don't believe that is a good troubleshooting procedure. It is much better to have the equipment and locate exactly where the problem is.