That is so correct! Words of wisdom!Superduper said:
Just to remove the pulley from the shaft in some cases needs lots of skill and technique.
Adjustment of Cassette Engine Speed in National RX-7000
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Just to remove the pulley from the shaft in some cases needs lots of skill and technique.
Sorry Hopey, wasn't trying to be hard on you. This WAS me going ez lol. The OP is obviously a novice based on his questions, so just trying to avoid a situation where we are giving him just enough information to walk him off a cliff. Knowledge is always welcome so it would be great if you can post the step by step here, but it's probably best to start a new thread in the tech section and if you do, if possible, please include detailed step/step accompanied with images so that the reader doesn't have to guess or imagine or maybe misinterpret the instructions.hopey said:
Magnum don't have to do this.
This is just some additional info:
There is an easy way to remove the brass pulley from the steel shaft of a motor.
Cover the face of the motor just to expose the pulley with flexible card board with a cut on it, and direct hair drier on it. The cut is to slide the shaft through it.
While the brass pulley is slightly hot, direct compressed air cleaner on the steel shaft and pull the brass pulley out.
It worked for me when I wanted to replace a deck motor.
To put the brass pulley back, heat the brass pulley and quickly slip it in. Keep a spacer in between the motor face and the pulley, or else it will go and hit the motor cover.
In some cases by applying force you can slide it out without any heating!
This is just some additional info:
There is an easy way to remove the brass pulley from the steel shaft of a motor.
Cover the face of the motor just to expose the pulley with flexible card board with a cut on it, and direct hair drier on it. The cut is to slide the shaft through it.
While the brass pulley is slightly hot, direct compressed air cleaner on the steel shaft and pull the brass pulley out.
It worked for me when I wanted to replace a deck motor.
To put the brass pulley back, heat the brass pulley and quickly slip it in. Keep a spacer in between the motor face and the pulley, or else it will go and hit the motor cover.
In some cases by applying force you can slide it out without any heating!
Hopey was talking about exposing the shaft at the bearing location to clean and polish it. Removing the pulley alone won't expose the shaft where it rides on bearing.
That is correct! I'm so sorry if I misunderstood!Superduper said:
That is is not an easy process.
Very complicated... so easy to make many mistakes!
I won't even attempt, unless I have another working motor with me.
CheersSuperduper said:
Good info, but if you do it carefully; I have successfully removed Brass and Plastic pulleys without any heat! I have seen reports of damaging the motor by removing the pulley however this is not my experience.BoomboxLover48 said:
I understand your concern, I would conclude that the motor requires a service or replacement. Your current motor isn't going to get any better so if you have a crack at fixing it there is little to loose.BoomboxLover48 said:That is correct! I'm so sorry if I misunderstood!
That is is not an easy process.
Very complicated... so easy to make many mistakes!
I won't even attempt, unless I have another working motor with me.
Did you change the Pinch roller as this is crucial to obtaining the correct tape transport speed, this could make you think the motor is too slow?
Despite comments I have read about these Japanese motors, they are very reliable and most are serviceable; as long as you can remove the back plate!
Something I noticed that was said by Magnum in first post was that when he records on Panny the speed is fast on other machines but when he has recorded on other machines that are slow on Panny. That seems kinda fishy!!!!
Bill, If the motor is slow on Magnum RX7000, the recorded music on it will sound faster on a normal tape player, and prerecorded tapes will play slower on Magnum RX7000. Make sense to me!baddboybill said:
Ok thanks to all the feedback!
I have to say I really didn't expect so much feedback. I know this must sound alarming to the specialists here that a novice is trying to open a so-called holy grail. The most recent feedback doesn't exactly help me with my own nervousness abot the whole thing.
But I try to be as cautious as I possibly can. That's also why I'm moving forward like a turtle with this project. It was on 'standby" for the past days because:
a) I had to repair a laptop. Worked out fine!
b) I had to buy a tool in order to remove the 2 nuts on the front side. First I bought the wrong tool BECAUSE these nuts are not 8 and 9 mm in diameter (as claimed in the service manual) but 11mm.
Now the nuts are removed.
Next step: Removal of the screws on the back.
I keep you all in the loop.
Thanks again for your support and interest.
I have to say I really didn't expect so much feedback. I know this must sound alarming to the specialists here that a novice is trying to open a so-called holy grail. The most recent feedback doesn't exactly help me with my own nervousness abot the whole thing.
But I try to be as cautious as I possibly can. That's also why I'm moving forward like a turtle with this project. It was on 'standby" for the past days because:
a) I had to repair a laptop. Worked out fine!
b) I had to buy a tool in order to remove the 2 nuts on the front side. First I bought the wrong tool BECAUSE these nuts are not 8 and 9 mm in diameter (as claimed in the service manual) but 11mm.
Now the nuts are removed.
Next step: Removal of the screws on the back.
I keep you all in the loop.
Thanks again for your support and interest.
But...... there is no need to remove those.Magnum said:Yes they are on the front cabinet behind two knobs.
They are the nuts holding the pots on the metal chassis.
Lol. OMG. It was way past my bedtime and I again wasn't paying attention to what I was reading. Lol 😆. Thank god I wasn't working on a box. Lol 😆BoomboxLover48 said:
Royce, that is incorrect. On a virgin unmolested RX-7000, those two nuts need to be removed or the front shell will not come off. It is not uncommon to find examples that have been previously serviced with those nuts missing, which in my opinion is sloppy work or oversight on the technician.BoomboxLover48 said:But...... there is no need to remove those.Yes they are on the front cabinet behind two knobs.
Royce, that is incorrect. On a virgin unmolested RX-7000, those two nuts need to be removed or the front shell will not come off. It is not uncommon to find examples that have been previously serviced with those nuts missing, which in my opinion is sloppy work or oversight on the technician.
Hi Norm,
Then mine was missing it to begin with. My mistake! My Apologies....
I've never seen something like that on a Panasonic, only on Japanese cars...
Magnum, I love to see a pic of that nut.
~Royce
Hi Norm,
Then mine was missing it to begin with. My mistake! My Apologies....
I've never seen something like that on a Panasonic, only on Japanese cars...
Magnum, I love to see a pic of that nut.
~Royce
Alot of times, when the front shell has been removed for an extended period of time, the technician forgets that they removed that nut to begin with, or they see the nut in the fastener pile but doesn't know where it goes since every pot already has a nut. I have seen this on many examples as I've worked on many RX-7000. If it's never been opened before, it has it. If it's been worked on before, a lot of time it's missing.BoomboxLover48 said:
There's nothing special about it. It's just a double stack nut. One to hold the pot to the chassis, and another one stacks on top after the front shell is replaced. Oh and this is not the case for all the pots. Only 2 of the pots have this extra fastener.
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