Citizen Model JTR1295 Speakers?

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trekking95

trekking95

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Hi there!
The other day someone gave me an old Citizen Model JTR1295 cassette boombox that they were throwing out. It's in almost perfect shape, except for a stretched belt (one belt, the rest is gear driven) and a blown speaker, which is an SP-409W 4 Ohm, 2 Watt, 4 in. diameter speaker.

After searching all the electronic component websites I could find, I found nothing. All the speakers had at least one spec that was too high. Can any of you help me find one that would work? I would rather not have them repaired.
Thanks! :)
 
trekking95

trekking95

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Superduper said:
How hard can it be to find a 4-ohm 4" speaker? The 2-watt rating should be considered as a minimum and you should replace them in pairs anyhow. As rare as that model is, it isn't practical to find an exact match.
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Thanks for the reply!

I was going to change both, the "good" speaker isn't much better. And 4 ohm speakers are easy enough to find, it's finding 4 in. ones that aren't too thick and have the mounting holes in the right spots.

EDIT: When you say rare, do you mean the boombox itself? It's so rare I couldn't find any mention of it online, not even a manual.
 
Superduper

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Citizen boomboxes certainly aren't common, at least not in the States. If you are in, say Canada, then there's probably a whole bunch more. I do have a bunch of citizen manuals but nothing for that model. Is the model you have the one with the quasi analog/floating-led-dot tuning scale? I thought the speakers were larger than 4"?
 
trekking95

trekking95

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Superduper said:
Citizen boomboxes certainly aren't common, at least not in the States. If you are in, say Canada, then there's probably a whole bunch more. I do have a bunch of citizen manuals but nothing for that model. Is the model you have the one with the quasi analog/floating-led-dot tuning scale? I thought the speakers were larger than 4"?
Click to expand...
Actually I am in Canada. :-)

And the tuning scale is just a basic clear plastic needle, with the knob on the right side.
 
trekking95

trekking95

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Lasonic TRC-920 said:
:morepics:
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Sorry, but I don't have any pictures of the device right now. But I need a new 5 pin, 50k ohm, 15A volume potentiometer, which I can't seem to find anywhere. Help would be appreciated.



 
JVC Floyd

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trekking95 said:
Sorry, but I don't have any pictures of the device right now. But I need a new 5 pin, 50k ohm, 15A volume potentiometer, which I can't seem to find anywhere. Help would be appreciated.



Click to expand...
that volume pot looks just like the ones in the panasonic rx 5050.
 
trekking95

trekking95

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JVC Floyd said:
that volume pot looks just like the ones in the panasonic rx 5050.
Click to expand...
Where can I get one?

If I can't find a potentiometer that will work, I'm going to buy old radios at goodwill until I find one.
 
JVC Floyd

JVC Floyd

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you can pick up one of the rx 5050 for under 50 bucks on ebay or ask around to see if anybody has the parts and check to see that they match.
 
Beosystem10

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trekking95 said:
Where can I get one?
Click to expand...
I was about to suggest RS Components but apparently, their US and Canadian shops no longer sell components and their website says that they closed some branches down earlier this year. Maplins (UK-based) will supply by mail order so it might be worth a look at their site. Is that one logarithmic or linear? That's the only other thing you need to know when ordering. New, you'll get a 47KΩ one as that's the equivalent available value, but in practice, no changes to any surrounding components will be required. Most unswitched pots of that type are under £2 though, so even allowing for the typical delivery charge, it's still cheaper than buying a breaker.

There must be another parts supplier closer to you though? I can't believe that Radio Shack's change of direction would leave one of the biggest countries on the planet short of electronic components. :'-(
 
trekking95

trekking95

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Beosystem10 said:
I was about to suggest RS Components but apparently, their US and Canadian shops no longer sell components and their website says that they closed some branches down earlier this year. Maplins (UK-based) will supply by mail order so it might be worth a look at their site. Is that one logarithmic or linear? That's the only other thing you need to know when ordering. New, you'll get a 47KΩ one as that's the equivalent available value, but in practice, no changes to any surrounding components will be required. Most unswitched pots of that type are under £2 though, so even allowing for the typical delivery charge, it's still cheaper than buying a breaker.

There must be another parts supplier closer to you though? I can't believe that Radio Shack's change of direction would leave one of the biggest countries on the planet short of electronic components. :'-(
Click to expand...
The only local place here is The Source (Canadian radio shack), and they have less than radio shack does! Most small electronics shops here are closed. :(

For now I'll just look for old radios. I don't really want to buy a whole other device, that makes the Citizen not worth fixing.

EDIT: How can you tell the difference between a logarithmic and a linear? This is the first time I've had to change a potentiometer.
 
Beosystem10

Beosystem10

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A logarithmic one will usually (but not always..) have "LOG" stamped or printed on its body somewhere, a linear one is less likely to be marked but if you're in any doubt, you can tell whether the pot is logaritmic or linear by using a simple multimeter...
With the pot removed from its location, first of all connect one lead from the meter to one end of the track inside. To establish which pins are the ends of the track, put the meter on its resistance range and touch the other lead against the other end of the track. When you have the leads connected to the two pins that give you a resistance reading somewhere close to the pot's rated value in Ohms at the end of the scale which would give you the lowest volume setting, then turn the spindle of the pot from that end of its range to the other. A logarithmic pot will reduce the resistance reading from thousands to tens of Ohms before the spindle has been turned through the first half of its travel and then gradually down to a few Ohms at the volume fully up position, a linear one will give a linear response with each degree of rotation equating to the same reduction of the resistance value.

May I just ask what it is that is wrong with the existing pot? If it's just scratchy and noisy when you turn it then a little Servisol S10 or the local equivalent (Deoxit?) scooshed into the pot will effect a fix if the spindle is turned back and forst a few times to clear the dirt.
If the pot appears not to make any difference to the volume or does so in a seemingly random way then yes, you'll need to replace it.
 
trekking95

trekking95

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Beosystem10 said:
A logarithmic one will usually (but not always..) have "LOG" stamped or printed on its body somewhere, a linear one is less likely to be marked but if you're in any doubt, you can tell whether the pot is logaritmic or linear by using a simple multimeter...
With the pot removed from its location, first of all connect one lead from the meter to one end of the track inside. To establish which pins are the ends of the track, put the meter on its resistance range and touch the other lead against the other end of the track. When you have the leads connected to the two pins that give you a resistance reading somewhere close to the pot's rated value in Ohms at the end of the scale which would give you the lowest volume setting, then turn the spindle of the pot from that end of its range to the other. A logarithmic pot will reduce the resistance reading from thousands to tens of Ohms before the spindle has been turned through the first half of its travel and then gradually down to a few Ohms at the volume fully up position, a linear one will give a linear response with each degree of rotation equating to the same reduction of the resistance value.

May I just ask what it is that is wrong with the existing pot? If it's just scratchy and noisy when you turn it then a little Servisol S10 or the local equivalent (Deoxit?) scooshed into the pot will effect a fix if the spindle is turned back and forst a few times to clear the dirt.
If the pot appears not to make any difference to the volume or does so in a seemingly random way then yes, you'll need to replace it.
Click to expand...
The shaft just keeps turning and makes almost no change in the volume level, so that multimeter test might not even work. I'll try it today and post an update here.
 
Beosystem10

Beosystem10

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That sounds as though the shaft has simple become loose in the fine wire frame that carries the wiper (the part that makes the contact with the track). This can happen with pots that have nylon spindles instead of the metal ones, there's a pimple on the internal end of the spindle that would have been made into a rivet to hold it all together at assembly, but if the head of the riveted part comes loose, then the wiper assembly can fret against the nylon and wear away at any shape moulded into it for location until the two parts are able to spin relative to each other. In pots that have those little tabs holding them all together, this is actually a really easy fix that can be effected with a rat tail file, some epoxy resin (Araldite is fine for this) and an hour of your time.
If you get it opened up and discover that it's spectacularly broken in there, you'll have lost nothing by trying as you'd already reckoned on fitting a new one.
 
trekking95

trekking95

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Beosystem10 said:
That sounds as though the shaft has simple become loose in the fine wire frame that carries the wiper (the part that makes the contact with the track). This can happen with pots that have nylon spindles instead of the metal ones, there's a pimple on the internal end of the spindle that would have been made into a rivet to hold it all together at assembly, but if the head of the riveted part comes loose, then the wiper assembly can fret against the nylon and wear away at any shape moulded into it for location until the two parts are able to spin relative to each other. In pots that have those little tabs holding them all together, this is actually a really easy fix that can be effected with a rat tail file, some epoxy resin (Araldite is fine for this) and an hour of your time.
If you get it opened up and discover that it's spectacularly broken in there, you'll have lost nothing by trying as you'd already reckoned on fitting a new one.
Click to expand...
Sorry about the long delay. Well yes, I did open it up. The shaft had broken away from the main dial and both wipers had broken loose (and one wiper was in my screw cup from when I first opened the device up, which means it must have come out of the potentiometer on its own, don't ask how). Anyway, some epoxy for the plastic and approx an hour later, and it's as good as new. :-)











But... that's not the worst thing. When I was measuring around the pulleys for a new belt, I noticed one gear was loose (this gear is turned by the main play pulley, then it turns the gear which turns the tape). After removing the tape head frame and attempting to remove the gear, it cracked and fell into 4 pieces, two sides and two from the center! And when I picked up the pieces, 2 more (2 were already missing) teeth fell off! And I barely touched it!

As you can see from the pictures, it's around 24.65 mm (very close to the size of a US Quarter) and the shaft it was on is around 2 mm. Does anyone know where to order a gear like that? I've only ever changed belts and speakers on these things. Thanks!







 
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