Sharp GF-9494

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Brownlow

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Jul 15, 2010
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Greetings Everyone,

Just a quick one, I have replaced all the belts on a Sharp GF-9494. I can hear the motor works, but there is no turning when the play button is pressed. The play spool will try to turn when assisted, but gives up. I need to lubricate some areas I suspect as I have not done this yet. What lubrication do you suggest? I had a look in the recommended tools, did I see a name for a lube......? I am desperate to get this tape section fixed so I can have a complete GF-9494.


Your recommendations please.


Cheers

Brownlow
 

skippy1969

Member (SA)
May 6, 2009
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Chris,you shouldn't need to lube anything on the spools.
About the only thing you should lube is the capstan bushing and the flywheel thrust bushing.
You can use a tiny dab of sewing machine oil or 3-n-1 oil one the capstan bushing and a dab of white lithium grease on the thrust bushing.
But be careful not to use too much as you can do more damage than good.
Also you might want to make sure the motor has enough power and is up to the job.
Motors can get weak over time and wear out especially the brushes inside.
Hope this helps and good luck!.
 

Brownlow

Member (SA)
Jul 15, 2010
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Hi Skippy,

Thanks for the swift reply. So, Lithium grease and 3 in 1 Oil I will now try and get hold of. The roller looks shiny on its surface like it is ready to eat tapes. It has not gone into a gooey mess just yet, can it be brought back to normality?

Cheers

Brownlow
 

Superduper

Member (SA)
Hey Brownlow -- how ya doing. Sorry I didn't respond via the tweeter bezel thing -- I have never disassembled the 9494 down that far and according to the service manual, it does appear to be a separate piece but as you suspected, it may very well be glued in so it might not be possible to remove it non-destructively.

As to your cassette play issue -- Sharps decks have a very common problem which is that the take-up-pulley disintegrates into a tar like good. Almost every Sharp suffers from this and when that happens, it doesn't work. Not talking about the pinch roller here. There is another pulley/roller that is not easily visible.

There are some other threads here that showed better photos of what I'm talking about but if you refer to page 31 of the SM and look at items #26 and #92 near the botton, you'll see what I'm talking about. Basically the pulley #92 disintegrates. It sleeves the capstan needle which threads through both that pulley and the flywheel bearing #26.

The "fix" is to use up a whole box of Q-tips soaked in isopropyl and remove all traces of the tar goo. When you think you've got it all, then replace that pulley (no longer available) with a silicone tube. They sell them at hobby stores as R/C model fuel lines. I forget the size I used but the size fatdog suggested did not work for me when I redid my Sharp GF-515. So what I did was buy an assortment of different sizes and used one that worked for me. Hope you get her fixed.
 

Brownlow

Member (SA)
Jul 15, 2010
263
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Hi Superduper,

Thanks for your reply. I can see I've got a little work ahead. These units are really worth it. Thanks for the directions to them other threads. Boomers of this calibre are just not complete without the cassette working.


Cheers


Brownlow
 

skippy1969

Member (SA)
May 6, 2009
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Brownlow said:
Hi Superduper,

Thanks for your reply. I can see I've got a little work ahead. These units are really worth it. Thanks for the directions to them other threads. Boomers of this calibre are just not complete without the cassette working.


Cheers


Brownlow
:agree: :agree: :agree: :agree: :agree:
 

alfie

Member (SA)
Mar 11, 2010
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Hey Brownlow,

I had the exact same problems with my gf9494, check out this thread viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6977&hilit=+capstan

This documents everything i needed to do to get it running again. It was the first time I'd done it and it was tricky at first but i've done it a couple of times since then and it gets much easier.

Good Luck :thumbsup:
 

Brownlow

Member (SA)
Jul 15, 2010
263
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Hey Alfie,

Thanks for the reply. This is great! Thanks for the links to the other threads. I see what I need to do :yes:


Cheers


Brownlow
 

Brownlow

Member (SA)
Jul 15, 2010
263
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Greetings Gents,

I've opened the 9494 up again, and the idler had quite a bit of goo on it. As per Superduper's recommended first step, I have cleaned it with some buds and alcohol. It looks better. Now, that silicon tube bit.......do I need to get to it (err....remove it) from this side?








......or this side? It looks like it is underneath where the flywheel is, so I guess it's surgery. :hmmm:

What did you do Alfie? Saxonman? Superduper? Anyone?


Look forward to your thoughts.


Cheers


Brownlow
 

alfie

Member (SA)
Mar 11, 2010
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Hey Brownlow,

You're gonna have to take off that back plate to get in there. At least one of the screws is spring mounted (this is important for when you put it back together), if you check the thread I refered you to it should help because I had issues with the spring mounting. Once you have the back plate off you need to pull off the main wheel to replace the gooed piece of rubber. Make sure you replace the belts while you're at it or :superduper: will give you into trouble ;-) .
It's a bit of a fiddle trying to get the new silicon tubing on there, you may have to cut it a few times to get the right size but be patient, you'll get there,

GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Superduper

Member (SA)
Chris. Remove the backing plate that secures the flywheel. The flywheel pulls straight out and along with it, the capstan needle will pull out too. Once the needle is completely outta there, you can then really get in there with the alcohol. There is no way to install the silicone tubing without removing the flywheel and needle. Once it's all clean, you stick the length of tubing into that chamber where the old pulley was and thread the needle back through there, and through the tubing.
 

Brownlow

Member (SA)
Jul 15, 2010
263
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Alfie, Superduper thank you for your advice once again. There needs to be some real patience going on here. I hope I can report some success. The belts are new, they have not been used in anger as I thought changing them would get things moving.

You guys are awesome.


Cheers



Brownlow
 

Brownlow

Member (SA)
Jul 15, 2010
263
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Hey Alfie, Superduper,

I purchased some tubing, which I had to file down. It seemed to take an age to get it to size. I had tried to get this tubing filed down to size (well what I thought was the correct size) and it wasn't working. This was growing a bit irritating :annoyed:

I filed down a different piece of tubing with one of my daughter's nail board thingies and I was a bit severe with the filing. Guess what? There was movement!! :-D

It was quite uneven the way the take up wheel turned, as there was a danger where it would unravel a tape. But, 2nd try tonight......IT WORKS! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

I have played a C90 tape all the way through, to no ill effects. Thanks to you and everyone else who has given me the ideas to get this baby working. I am very grateful.

:beer2:

On me!


Cheers


Brownlow
 

Superduper

Member (SA)
Hey Brown, I think you get the general idea now. I never had to do any filing so I'm guessing a better fitting tubing is in order. An alternative if you must file is to temporarily put the tubing onto the tape end and run the motor with the nail file on the tubing so you can file it evenly. Otherwise, yes it could introduce wow/flutter if filed unevenly.
 

alfie

Member (SA)
Mar 11, 2010
1,328
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Sydney, Australia
Congrats!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

It took me ages the first time too, I've done it twice since and it only takes me about 30 minutes now. It's a vital trick to know if you like the GF series.

Probably been my most satisfying repair to date :-D :-D
 
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