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Issue with Telefunken Hifi Studio 1 power supply?


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#1 spatterlight

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:01 PM

So I just bused out to the boonies to chase a classified ad. Met the guy, bought his minty Telefunken Hifi Studio 1 for 90 bucks. He loaded it with batteries to demonstrate, cause we weren't near any power outlets -- everything worked fine, tape player was flawless, volume cranked, all that. Then he took his batteries out and I hauled the monster home on the bus. Only thing is, I can't get it working with house current. I'm just using a standard power cord with the right shaped plug, because the seller didn't provide one.

When I plug it in and hit the power button, I hear those little familiar "power up" popping noises from the speakers. I also hear them when I toggle the input between tape, AUX and radio. When I hold down the little switch that changes the top meter from displaying signal strength to battery level, the little needle goes to about 40%. But the lamps don't light and none of the blaster's functions work at all. Pretty much as if it's unplugged. No funky burning smells.

I would assume I need a transformer to give it 220v current, since it's a German model with mostly German writing, except that the sticker on the back reads "AC 120V / 60W".You can see that the sticker's been pasted over top of another sticker, and it reads "Sound Equipment Manufacturers / Don Mills, Ontario" on the top. I figured that SEM had changed out the power supply as a condition of selling it in Canada, or something, and put on a new sticker accordingly. (It doesn't look like a counterfeit sticker or anything. It's exactly the right size and shape, looks professionally printed, and all that.)

What do you figure? Do I need some kind of AC adapter? Or a transformer after all? Or is there maybe something wrong with the power supply internally?

#2 Fatdog

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:08 PM

You should see a fuse somewhere in the back of the unit inserted into one of three slots. If the fuse is in the middle slot, it is set for 220V. Move the fuse to the furthest right slot and it should work (110V).

#3 redbenjoe

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:12 PM

or ..........
on some studio models - the fuse needs to be turned 90 degrees

#4 spatterlight

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:18 PM

I actually can't see anything that looks like a fuse, though I don't know a ton about electronics. Here's the back of my funken. Does it have something to do with the two little recessed boxes in the top left?

(The speakers are sitting on my bed. I'm not quite green enough to buy a box without speakers.)

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#5 Fatdog

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:33 PM

Hmmm, yours appears to factory 120V. Looks like you're gonna need to open it up and do some checking. :-/

#6 spatterlight

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:38 PM

I had a feeling this thing was too perfect. Ah well. I don't have much experience with fixing audio gear, just basic soldering, splicing and cleaning pots... any tips on what kind of problems I should be looking for? Or do you figure there's a fuse I can toggle on the inside? Thanks.

#7 Fatdog

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:50 PM

Or do you figure there's a fuse I can toggle on the inside? Thanks.

That's exactly what I would be looking for. I know member Oldskool69 has a Studio 1 and he might be able to offer a lot more insight into your problem. But, hey, at least we know that it works using batteries. So, in the worst case scenario, it should work with a 12V DC adapter.

Try looking for a blown fuse first though. ;-)

#8 baddboybill

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 12:42 AM

It could also be the micro switch where the plug goes into rear of bbx for changing ac/dc...it could be dirty or rusted which may cause problem :hmmm:

#9 spatterlight

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 02:29 AM

Or do you figure there's a fuse I can toggle on the inside? Thanks.

That's exactly what I would be looking for. I know member Oldskool69 has a Studio 1 and he might be able to offer a lot more insight into your problem. But, hey, at least we know that it works using batteries. So, in the worst case scenario, it should work with a 12V DC adapter.

Try looking for a blown fuse first though. ;-)


I'll open it up tomorrow or the next day, yeah. Worst case scenario doesn't sound all that bad though. Here's a question, if I was going to find a 12v adapter, what would I be looking for in terms of amperage and polarity?

#10 monchito

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 03:50 AM

its done from inside ,, to change voltage to 120 you will have to move i belive the fuse on the 220 slot to the 120 slot ,, i belive iras was like this when he bought his the first time,,, it was a matter of switching a fuse around ,, if all the sticker are intact inside you will see the postion it needs to be in :yes: :yes: :yes: :-) :monchito:

#11 oldskool69

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 05:14 AM

I got your PM Spatterlight. Everyone here has you on the right track. Be very careful opening the unit up though. You will quiclky find out why this thing is a tank. It is not the typical flexible plastic casing, but a very stiff type mold compound. Also, the screws aren't very big. Aside from that, once you open up the back, you will easily see the fuse location. Tell us what you see from there regrding the fuse condition. Then we'll go from there.

You really want this baby to run on AC...DC is fine but you'll never get remotely close to what it's capable of. Even if you were to end up using a DC adapter, the amperage these produce in general would still starve it. You'll see why when you open it. The Studio 1 was never really intended to be a "boombox" in the sense the term represents, but it is one nonetheless. When you see the twin windings for the transformer and those Darlington IC's...well...


Think very nice small home reciever combo system. :-)

#12 Superduper

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 10:50 AM

On DC, it runs on 12 volts.

On AC,, it gets 49 volts.

If the label in the rear says 120 volts, my guess is it's already been adjusted to 120 volt use.

#13 oldskool69

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 02:53 PM

On DC, it runs on 12 volts.

On AC,, it gets 49 volts.

If the label in the rear says 120 volts, my guess is it's already been adjusted to 120 volt use.


I tend to agree but it may have been overseas. We'll never know the true lives of our boomers spent unless we bought it originally ourselves (eg: Tony) so he should start there. Hopefully it's that simple.

I know tons of people who bought equipment in the 'States with multi-voltage settings, went overseas, set it for the respective voltage of their location, bought a new piece of equipment, boxed the old one up without a second thought, came back to the 'States, pulled it out of storage and sold it as working as long as it appeared to come on because they "remembered' it working. This one may be lucky enough to be as simple as that. It was tested on batteries only so it's easily the first step to take. :-)

A good example of this are my two Sansui CP-7's. The silver was a European production code and set for 220v. The Black was a North American production code and set for 120v. Both came off the 'Bay. The guy who I bought the silver from (I got it before the black one) said he got it while stationed in Europe. In the description it stated the unit was working but there were no photo's of it in operation. I asked him about the voltage settings, sure enough, he said he remembered it working fine and didn't think of it. He replied to me that if I hadn't mentioned the voltage settings, he never would have looked. He left it right where it was when he came back to the 'States eight years after he bought it because he didn't use it anymore. He adjusted the voltage, checked it, verified with me it was good and now it sits on the top of my shelf next to the black one and both have the original voltage stickers. :-D

#14 monchito

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 03:05 PM

are they getting used freddie :lol: one of those could be next to my cp-5 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

#15 spatterlight

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 04:16 PM

I've got the box open -- some pictures are attached. The two fuses visible (as far as I can tell, there are no other fuses in the box's guts) are both fine, I just tested their continuity.

If there's a way to set the voltage differently from inside, my guess is that it'd involve taking out one fuse and moving the other one to the center position. I don't want to do anything I'm not sure about though. I have a bunch of boomboxes downstairs as eBay stock, but this is the one I'm keeping for my "coolest things I've ever seen" collection.

While I'm at it, the cable running from the antennas doesn't connect to anything, and the end's obviously been snipped off. Unless I'm really off-base, it's supposed to snake out of the Telefunken's back, then plug into the antenna jacks. I've just never seen jacks that small. When I'm repairing it, do I need some special tips for the end of the cable, or will any straight pieces of wire do?

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#16 spatterlight

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 07:22 PM

While I'm at it, I found a scan of the service manual.

http://www.mediafire...3hk7o6e19174rlg

#17 skippy1969

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 08:24 PM

I took the back off mt Studio1 and the fuses look the same as yours.
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And yes the antenna wire goes through the back panel and loops around into the plugin.
I replaced my wires as mine was in bad shape and too short from years of cutting and stripping.
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#18 Fatdog

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 01:50 AM

While I'm at it, I found a scan of the service manual.

http://www.mediafire...3hk7o6e19174rlg

Freakin' awesome!! It has been added to the Archive.


Skippy, can you get us a close up of the sticker area that is outlined in blue?

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#19 skippy1969

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 11:02 AM

Sure,here you go Bobby....... :-D
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#20 oldskool69

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 12:02 PM

Here are some pics from my working and spare. See the fuse layout sticker that you guys don't have. (I'm sure others do.) Also, see the plug for the antenna which should be on each unit.

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Your fuse layout is correct for North America. So now we need to start looking a little deeper... :hmmm:

#21 spatterlight

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 12:27 PM

Gotcha, thanks for the pics guys. I understand it's real hard doing tech support from a distance, but is there anything you can think of to try before I take this thing to a repair shop?

#22 JVC Floyd

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 12:34 PM

you could try one of these

http://cgi.ebay.com/... ... _522wt_698

#23 oldskool69

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 01:04 PM

Hell's bells! My meters now aren't working on my good one! :w00t: :lol: Oh well, something to add to the list of tasks... :-/

I know to a lot this will sound wierd...

Take one of the fuses out of the "A" position. DO NOT, REPEAT DO NOT PUT IT IN THE "B" (220v) POSITION. Power it up..., if you have a DIN cable to RCA, play something using that through the AUX/TAPE input on the back. Note what happens. The repeat for the other "A" position. This is about as simple a check as it can get. Like you noted, you'll likely take this to a repair shop. But we can get some clues...

Let us know. Mine did operate with a single fuse, not as strong with both, but it did work. (When I got it, being from Germany of course, it had one fuse. So I had to buy some. I won't go into the machinations of why it still worked. Norm and a few others here do a better job of blistering the non-techie brains with that stuff. :lol: My dad was a tech for over forty years and had me by his side many days and summers. :-D)

#24 spatterlight

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 01:14 PM

Right on. I'll get a 5-pin DIN converter and try it this afternoon.

#25 oldskool69

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 06:33 PM

are they getting used freddie :lol: one of those could be next to my cp-5 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


Yes they are getting used...and used to be admired by ME! :w00t: :lol: :lol: :lol:

#26 spatterlight

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 07:49 PM

The electronics shop isn't open until tomorrow... for the time being, I have a 12V, 2A adapter that fits the jack, though it's a little loose. Will 2 amps hurt the power supply? (For that matter, will a loose jack hurt the power supply, like if it wiggled and the sleeve broke contact while the tip was still drawing charge?)

#27 oldskool69

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 08:19 PM

The electronics shop isn't open until tomorrow... for the time being, I have a 12V, 2A adapter that fits the jack, though it's a little loose. Will 2 amps hurt the power supply? (For that matter, will a loose jack hurt the power supply, like if it wiggled and the sleeve broke contact while the tip was still drawing charge?)



Heck if you've got two amps you're doing great! :-D

Now as far as the power supply and the loose jack, I myself would just leave it be. No need to waste as perfectly good power pack by shorting it out and possibly causing damage to the box. :no:

I can understand your hunger to get this thing going, but look at it like this. It may not be as satisfying or rewarding as sex, but like sex, it's so much better when the moment is right with no issues to concern with...like sufficient power. :lol:

You'll be happier in the long run. Wait 'til tommorow, get the cord, and go from there. :yes:

#28 spatterlight

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:44 AM

Hi again. I finally tracked down a male 5-pin DIN cable from an old keyboard adapter and spliced a passable patch cord with some spare audio cables from my box. I plugged the Telefunken into the wall and tried the line in function with one fuse on the right, with one fuse on the left, and with both fuses in. All three times the result was the same: it plays very quietly (if I max out the volume it's about as loud as laptop speakers at a normal level) and just out of one speaker. When I was running it on batteries, both speakers worked completely fine. Any thoughts? Thanks.

#29 JVC838

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 05:11 AM

You have to check the small red rectifier , which is placed on a little PCP on top of the battery compartment.

It is a selenium type made by AEG

You can replace it with a small standart silicium type.

#30 joeladamkrueger

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 04:10 AM

But for 220 V it should just be one fuse in the middle slot, right? I replaced that fuse, it turned on for a second then the fuse burned... :thumbsdown: What's the most likely cause for that?