CONION c-100f belt sizes

Can some body tell me belt sizes for CONION c-100f
I just bought one off eBay and tape 1 and to not working
So I would like to break the whole unit down and clean and replace anything
I can also the fm tuner when in stereo mode (stereo/mono switch) seller states
stereo goes in and out mono works fine ! Anybody know what this may be ?
Thansks mac8357

Welcome aboard. Be insanely careful taking that radio apart!! Lopez took apart one of his and one of the boards crack in half rendering the radio useless. It just became a parts box after that. The tape deck itself is hidden behind so much crap that you might even get discouraged in even messing with it. I opened mine and quickly closed it. Lopez bought himself a bag of belts and him and I just use what ever fits in it's place. Use a belt that isn't too tight or too loose. It needs just the right amount of tension to work properly. I don't know your level of expertise in this field but I wish you nothing but good luck. Let me know how it all works out because my TAPE1 doesn't work either. Any help you can offer would be cool. Jr!

If you decide to take it apart, be sure to make lots of notes about location of connectors and TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES for reference. The C-100F is one of those boomboxes that is quite the nightmare.

not too mention re aligning the core support with the front case is a pain because if it's not perfect it will make the cassette door and the cassette buttons act the fool.

conion c100 f belt change info
https://boomboxery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2921&p=40497

Belt Kits
https://boomboxery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=97&p=1366

Conion c100
tape 1
FBM 9.6
SBS 8.9 x 2
Tape 2
SBS 10.0 or SBM 10.0 ( I think you can get away with either)

Click to expand...

As JVC Floyd said, In my opinion the most difficult thing about working on the C100f is aligning up all the switches, knobs, cassette buttons, etc when putting the case back together. All of the wires come off with quick snap connectors. Just make sure you take pics of each connection before you unplug them so you remember where they go. I ordered my belts from http://www.studiosoundelectronics.com/

Maybe use small pieces of masking tape with numbers on them to mark the wires and connection locations for each one?

btphoto said:

Maybe use small pieces of masking tape with numbers on them to mark the wires and connection locations for each one?

Click to expand...

I tried that once on my Sanyo M920 and some of the tape came off so since I had no pics I asked Melly where wires go Pictures are best plus I now draw a diagram too and write the colors wires and destination just to be on safe side

Good luck with the belt replacement.

Whenever I do any disassembling like this I get a couple of different colour Sharpie's and use numbers of dots on the plug and the socket to make sure they go back in the right place. Can usually fit 3-4 dots on a connector and socket, combine that with a few different colours and you'll be able to mark accurately tens of connectors.



Rock On.

ALot of the wire harness connectors are the same size so make sure to photo and tag them!!!
You will need alot of time and patience.
I have had two complete tear down and re-assembles , they take some time and finessing.

So I'm new to the 'belt replacing' game and am just catching up on the posts regarding replacing them on the Conion C100FF. Looking at a few of the online retailers, it doesn't seem like there's one place that has the 3 needed. And just so I know what the differences are, what does FBM, SBS, and SBM mean? I would assume FB = Flat Belt and SB = Square belt, but what's the M or S at the end mean?

tape 1
FBM 9.6 + SBS 8.9 x 2
Tape 2
SBS 10.0 or SBM 10.0 ( I think you can get away with either)

And just in case anyone has some advice from working on this model, here's what I see after just taking the back off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm most likely not diggin in further without my brother comes over. He went to electronic repair school back in the day when he'd be fixing VCRs and Radios everyday.

Lower Deck (tape 1) - The play head, pinch roller and that assembly seem to be stuck 'up' in the play position. Roller is pressed right against the capstan and I can't get it to release. That's the way I got it. When you hit play/ff/rw, nothing spins, and of course I can't even get a tape in there as it's in that playing position. I can see the larger flat belt spinning that's connected to the motor, but that's all I see moving from the back. The smaller belt (the SPS 8.9 i believe as my measurement was about that) was broken and just hangin around the area when I opened it up. So obviously I need to replace that belt, but not sure what might be not letting it get out of the 'play' position. And then there's 'mystery' part that was kinda just stuck at the bottom of the case when I opened it up. Maybe this has something to do with the position issue as it looks like something that could slide and hold something in position. And I have no idea if the 2 tecks are tied in together were having the lower one stuck in position might affect the top one.

The flat belt is spinning, but this is also where I found the torn smaller belt. Not sure what all that alone would kill


Mystery loose part that was to the left (from backview) of the lower deck


Top Deck (tape 2) - Accepts the tape, and I see the gold looking metal part spinning (right below the motor I believe), but I think it might be spinning freely without the belt or other any other pieces moving. And the FF/RW have no response with any movement beyond the buttons. And not sure what it should look like when pressing the PROG button, but that seems to do nothing. It's currently just lit on the 'reverse' play light.

M and S is medium and small for the width. The bottom deck is not tied in with top deck but the bottom deck is fully automatic, so you need a working belt on it in order for it to release back into s stopped position. If you have deck access you may be able to turn the wheel by hand so it can finish and go back to a stopped position the black part looks to be a slide maybe for record or pause control. Maybe someone who has actually worked on this deck can chime in to say exactly what it's for good luck

That mystery piece is for the bottom cassette storage drawer there should be a spring with that as well.
This is what keeps the drawer closed and also releases it when you press the drawer.
If you are missing the bottom drawer dont worry about it.
I am missing that part on mine

That mystery piece is for the bottom cassette storage drawer there should be a spring with that as well.
This is what keeps the drawer closed and also releases it when you press the drawer.
If you are missing the bottom drawer dont worry about it.
I am missing that part on mine

HI, I AM CURRENTLY WORKING ON A C-100F AS WE SPEAK....THE BELTS ARE COMPLETELY MELTED... AS SOON AS I CLEAN OFF THE GOO. AND LOCATE SUITABLE REPLACEMENTS I WILL MEASURE THE BELTS AND POST THE INFORMATION HERE FOR THE WORLD TO SEE. THERE IS A LITTLE WIGGLE ROOM ...BUT NOT MUCH....TOO TIGHT IS BAD NEWS AND TOO LOOSE RESULTS IN SLIPPAGE. DO NOT FEAR DECK A. DON'T BE AFARID TO CUT THE NY-TYES THAT BUNDLE THE WIRES....JUST REMEMBER WHERE TO REPLACE THEM.....THE BOARD CAN BE REMOVED BY 1. REMOVING THE SCREWS THAT HOLD THE BOARD IN PLACE 2. DIS-ENGAGE THE RECORD SWITCH LINKAGE 3. YOU'LL NOTICE SEVERAL WIRES THAT ARE TOO SHORT TO MOVE THE BOARD OUT OF YOUR WAY....CAREFULLY MARK THESE WIRES AND DISCONNECT THEM. YOU MAY ALSO DRAW A DIAGRAM OR PHOTOGRAPH CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU DISCONNECT THEM...YOU WANT TO PUT WIRES BACK WHERE YOU GOT THEM FROM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOU'LL NOTICE THAT YOU NOW HAVE SOME WORKING ROOM OR ACCESS TO THE PULLYS WHERE THE BELTS GO. BY BEING WELL RESTED AND WORKING CAREFULLY MAKING NOTES AND TAKING SPECIAL CARE RE: PLUGS & WIRE CONNECTIONS THE JOB CAN BE PERFORMED W/O ANY RESULTING HORROR STORIES OR PARTS SET SYNDROME.
WHEN I GO THROUGH THE TROUBLE OF RE-BELTING I REPLACE THE MOTOR AT THE SAME TIME. IT'S SUCKS WHEN YOU DO ALL THE WORK AND THE MOTOR STARTS TO SQUEAL A WEEK LATER.
IMPORTANT NOTES: 1. SOMETIMES THERE ARE MULTIPLE WIRES OF THE SAME COLOR....WHICH IS WHY BE SURE TO MARK EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT ie: BOTH THE WIRE AND THE PLACE YOU REMOVED IT FROM. 2. WHEN RE-ASSEMBLING TAKE SPECIAL CARE NOT TO PINCH WIRES BETWEEN MOVING PARTS AND CIRCUIT BOARD AND USE NEW NY-TIES TO BUNDLE THE WIRES IN THE SAME WAY THEY WERE. IN TECH SPEAK THIS IS KNOWN AS "LEAD DRESS". THESE TIPS CAN BE APPLIED GENERALLY TO MOST ANY PIECE OF EQUIP. YOU'RE UN-FAMILIAR WITH. .
PS: DRAW A DIAGRAM AND MARK THE WIRES.....ALWAYS, ALWAYS MARK....EVEN IF YOU THINK YOU WON'T FORGET....DIAGRAMS. ARE SO HARD TO FIND FOR SOME OF THIS EQUIP.THAT YOU SHOULD DRAW YOUR OWN AND MARK AS YOU REMOVE. ALSO TAKE NOTE OF THE SCREW SIZES AND LENGTHS BE SURE TO REPLACE HARDWARE IN ITS PROPER PLACE....WORK NEAT, TAKE YOUR TIME, ATTENTION TO DETAIL ALWAYS PAYS OFF.

m40dotcom said:

Lower Deck (tape 1) - The play head, pinch roller and that assembly seem to be stuck 'up' in the play position. Roller is pressed right against the capstan and I can't get it to release. That's the way I got it. When you hit play/ff/rw, nothing spins, and of course I can't even get a tape in there as it's in that playing position. I can see the larger flat belt spinning that's connected to the motor, but that's all I see moving from the back. The smaller belt (the SPS 8.9 i believe as my measurement was about that) was broken and just hangin around the area when I opened it up. So obviously I need to replace that belt, but not sure what might be not letting it get out of the 'play' position. And then there's 'mystery' part that was kinda just stuck at the bottom of the case when I opened it up. Maybe this has something to do with the position issue as it looks like something that could slide and hold something in position. And I have no idea if the 2 tecks are tied in together were having the lower one stuck in position might affect the top one.

The flat belt is spinning, but this is also where I found the torn smaller belt. Not sure what all that alone would kill

Click to expand...

I imagine you have this figured out by now? I recently got ahold of one of these boxes and am almost done with a clean/refurbish. I found that the belt you are seeing/saw spinning is what raises/lowers the play mechanism into place. There is a small switch on the other side that turns the motor driving that entire contraption on and off. It consists of two copper blades with contacts on the end. They disconnect once the "tray" or whatever you want to call it is in place. I can provide a much more detailed description if you haven't gotten this taken care of?