sanyo m9998k problems

I got a sanyo 9998k is in good nick but has two problems one is the tape I rebelted it but it does nothing motor must be bust!! also the power switch does not now turn off now i've done the belts everything seems to be connected ok but it just don't turn off.Also now it doesn't eject and the tape light is on all the time?? what i have I done wrong??when i put the maun belt on the flywheel seemed undertention but it suddenly released was that the problem??? I'll take it all apart again no problem i enjoyed it (best project i've bought) apart from that everything is ok.Has anyone got anything to help me!! I'm gonna totally strip it down ,redo the lot now!!

Wow, did you get it back together right. It may be stuck in play mode thats why power not turning off. Try turning the fly wheel by hand till it clicks off. There is a mini switch that should click off. From there you can try it again Hope this help's...

when you took the deck out did you take out the bottom switches that are connected at the bottom of the deck its held on by 2 small screws ,, if you did make sure you push all the swiches in if not you will get those problems...

you mean the bit with the white switches on??monchito because were puzzeled by that which way they came off !!!!!!that may well be the problem!! and yes i'll try moving the fly wheel it was under stress then and when we put it back it was free running!! It took us 4 hours it was a sudden urge to do it with planning! fun but it may not be put back correctly I'm getting some more belts we had to use a rubber band for the drive as my stoke was low!! but it was just to see if it worked at all !! but after putting it back together we realised that the motor doesn't move so that could be no good eva!!! thanks for the help so far it sounds as if this is going to be a long job!!!

it was this or a lasonic 930 both same price but this one is far better condition !!! not certain i done the right thing!

yes the white ones they have to be pushed in all of them if they are sticking out then it wont work right sometimes they can be a pain to get them in if you try lifting the board a bit the other ones come out so have to do it little by little

One of the hardest boomboxes to rebelt. Some say it's the TPR-990 but I don't know -- might be a toss up.

even if it is differcult i love it!! makes the brain tick!! look forward to doing it again but i'm puzzled i need some new belts but still not sure about buying them size wise I know the sizes from another post!! but hiw do i do it ?? the biggest is 266mm so do i buy a 133mm one is that how it goes??I normaly just buy packs of ten but this time i would like to buy the correct size! i go to cpc Thnaks for all the help so far i WILL need more

Superduper said:

One of the hardest boomboxes to rebelt. Some say it's the TPR-990 but I don't know -- might be a toss up.

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well the first time i did my 9998 it was really hard but after a marathon of a few it was not bad at all ,, now the aiwa 990 no that must be more of a pain especially the bottom section with the motorized deck buttons :annoyed:

The hard part about the 9998 deck is unburying and getting the deck out. The TPR990 -- the deck itself requires 8 fingers and 3 hands.

As for belts, each boombox requires a specific set of belts. Getting belts in bulk is fine -- IF you get the exact correct sizes. I have seen boomboxes where skinny square belts were used when a wide flat one was specified. I have seen thick anaconda belts used where thin ones were prescribed. I have seen many motors worn (read: ground) down to the bearings and brushes from over tensioned belts. I have also seen motors cocked at great angles because the rubber motor mounts were completely flattened on one side due to overtensioned belts too. Frequently, on belt stock collections, DIYer's use whatever belts they have in stock. Longer ones won't work because they slip so when the belt assortment is limited, smaller ones (or different thickness than original) are frequently installed instead and WILL appear to work at first. I'm just saying that over time, this WILL cause problems. Just my 2 cents from rebelting many many decks.

thanks super duper but I always get the right size by comparing old for new never really replaced alot of box's without! I know the sizes for this just can't get my head this measurment stuff!!!! I have got it completely to bits and i mean to bits!!! took plenty of pics and am being carefull to wright down any i should know for putting it back together! I have now tested the motor and that is fine just need to rebelt it again put it back together and hope it works!!

trying to be exact is ok but remember belts stretch so i would go with a snug belt too loose will just cause problems even slipping or something might not work correctly ,, if you know the correct size it calls for a lot better

Right update on the sanyo!! it's still in bits lots of wires broken or disconnected but i'm getting there !1 this machine suffers from static which i was sure it was coming from the volume pots i spray it from the outside and it improved but was still static.Now i have got the whole thing to bits i can spray them properly and hopefully it'll cure .until i read the post on the sharp and i saw this on one of the amps do ya reckon the amp chip is gone???

i have seen that on a couple of boxes with simular chips and they are still working correctly up to now have had no problem and i belive one of them is my 9998

good thanks for that dude !! It has good volume on both channels so i didn't think it was but just needed another opinion before i put it all back together

The amp module itself looks fine but unless you see obvious physical damage, a visual inspection is not the way to determine if an amp is good or not. Lots of amps blow without any exterior evidence of damage. The amp does appear to have been changed and not original. I say that because there is far too much grease present which suggests sloppy repair and also it appears the wrong kind of grease was used. That compound looks like ordinary grease or vaseline. That is also the likely reason the tab is discolored. Almost all factory thermal grease is white in color and extremely thick/tacky. The opaque transluscency is due to microsopic ceramic particles used to thermally transfer the heat. The silicone base is merely used as a medium for the particles. Clear grease like that clearly has zero particles.

I think Super it's glue as it's hard!! are you talking about the thermal compound used for computer chips!!???

Hard!??! Are you sure -- I'm talking about the glob above the black capacitor and along the top edge of the IC mounting tab. IF that is glue, that is not good.

Yes, thermal grease is used on computer CPU's too, but those are usually a much thicker and expensive variety. The ones on most amp heatsinks are white, almost like cream cheese but very tacky and thick.

yes it is hard like glue deffo it looks like it's fluid but it's not I'll remove that then and replace it with the stuff i put on my cpu's it's white and thick thanks

It's too late. The stuff needs to go between the tab and heatsink. With the IC aleady soldered in place, there is no easy way to install the grease now. The proper way is to fasten the heatsink first, then solder. Once an IC is soldered, it will no longer be flexible enough to make good contact with the heatsink unless desoldered first. Cranking down on the fastener usually accomplishes nothing more than to bend and deform the tab.